UltraFire SRK - 2017 new generation

Really nice looking light, I like that color compared to the others in the lineup. Sad about the no shelf though. And the non standard pcb means the option of replacing that with a nice heavy dtp copper board won’t be happening either.
:person_facepalming:

Actually I really like the look of this light from several angles:

  • blue bezel on gray I though was best combo they offer
  • prefer this battery tube style over the rails on the classic SRK's
  • like the knurling at the bezel
  • like the style and accents on the head, though probably would be better with more and deeper fins

Don't like the UI much at all:

  • always comes on Hi
  • got to click thru all modes to turn it off
  • don't think the mode display of "H", "E", "L" help much. If the light is on, you can't tell what mode it's in because the battery status is displaying, not the mode indicator. Also displaying the mode only when the mode changes is kind of redundant - it's obvious clicking thru from OFF. It only has value if you are already ON, and change modes going down - then at least you can see what new mode you are in, but that just seems somewhat limited use with only 3 levels.

…. And I guess “E” is just supposed to be a sideways “M”…

Stupid to include a cycle-through-all-modes driver…

Although the battery meter is a cool feature, it seems like sacrificing that to swap drivers would be worth it, if the light could handle the current…

I considered one as an intro to SRK lights. It is a nice looking light though. Probably good that I paid for a $20 light and got what I got rather than paying more. I did recently order a Manker MK41, it’s not really a SRK, and that’ll be it until the Q8; which will probably ruin me for lights of this sort of form factor for some time. I’m so glad I didn’t pay more for the UltraFire after reading this review.

Hmm, like the looks for sure!
And lumens also nice.

Does the indicator work like the Uniquefire 1401?
The H, sideways M and L are the same.
But the 1-9 in the 1401 is more to show how long you got then actual voltage so a 2 in high becomes a 8 for example in low with the same voltage.

I have modded such a flashlight, because of a dead driver.
I used individual wires to the switch and display.For the display I used the first digit after the point from a Voltmeter.
And I used a Nanjg AK47 with FET Mod and star momentary Firmware.

Didn't verify this - can't check til tomorrow maybe. Sorry, only quickly checked a partially drained cell.

Ok - this is interesting, and good news! That's cool using the display, but not sure I understand. Probably used just a segment of the digit? Think these simplistic panels work that way? I think we used to call these 7 segment displays, because each of 7 segments could be individually turned ON/OFF, and could make any digit of 0-9, and many letters, for example: C, E, F, H, J. Letters like A, M, or N could not be made because of the 45 degree strokes. Letters like B, D would be confused with the digit 8 or digit 0, so not practical.

If you have any pictures or info on pin definitions, please post. Also can you confirm the one you worked on had no shelf?

Thanks for checking this light out!

Any info on the ledboard? How thick are the traces, especially close to the solder pads, where the most current will be? Will they handle more current? Non-dtp is alright up to 3.5A per led, so 21amps, if the ledboard is backed up with a copper plate and it sits well on its shelf. And you need to drill some clearance for thicker wires into the reflector.

Can't tell bout the traces yet - could check it out this weekend. In one of the pics, appears to be pretty thick on the left side. Think there will be clearance for thicker wires, but would have to verify. The LED alignment pieces give you 1.6 mm of clearance, if I left them as-is.

Does that 3.5A per LED rule still apply to these multi-LED boards? Think'n a lot more heat going around on that LED board, then if it was a single. Though the board is somewhat thick at 1.93 mm, I've seen thicker ones used in these SRK clones. I was planning/hoping to do full LED/copper DTP replacements.

I think I could definitely work out a driver piggyback solution using the switch and a single segment of a digit display. I see they have a 330 ohm resistor on the batt+ lead feeding the 12 pin ribbon, so think'n I can leave that circuitry in tact on the stock driver.

That driver retainer ring is real tough to work with - it's hard to tighten without twisting the driver - gotta figure a better way.

The more I look at this light though, the gray finish and styling is maybe the best I've seen in any SRK. Not a fan though of the blue bezel, though better than red - might strip it down and polish it up. Shame it has the waste of a charger, and the screwed down rubber cover. What's good bout the rubber cover though is you can feel the bump near the bottom so you can position it in your hand for the switch easier. Gotta update the OP.

That may be better after all.

I think that the 3.5A per led does easily apply for 5 out of the six leds if the ledboard is pressed well on the shelf with some thermal paste in between, but the middle one may just die because its heat path is very much worse than the rest.

I received a 7 emitter version with the orange bezel. Your OP is consistent with mine too, even down to the 1 screw on the reflector. Thanks for creating this thread. I think many of us will have some fun with this light and this will be a good place to share ideas.

Currently, I plan on using a 7135+FET type driver and finally trying Narsil. Replacing the tall isolater rings with very thin ones should provide adequate room for a copper plate behind the MCPCB. Hoping that makes the beam floodier as mine is pretty focused the beam pattern is unnatural looking with a distracting overly defined hot spot. I think the tall isolaters are blocking some of the light output. I'll drill and press copper slugs into the thermal pads. Want use one of the leds in the display as an always on location assist. Probably the middle led.

Not this one.

Almost sprayed my drink on my monitor. :smiley: Thanks Tom.

I want to explain it better: The Voltmeter had 3 times 7 segments to show the voltage. I used only 7 segment.

For 4.1V the display shows 1.
For 3.6V it shows 6.

I was searching for datasheets that fits the Display of the Flashlight and the Voltmeter. I tested the displays with very bad NiMh batteries in a 3S carryer or I used my multimeter with resistor test. After finding the correct datasheets I has written down the needed connections.

I do not have the flashlight anymore.
But I have made some pics: http://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/media/albums/fandyfire-r8.1620/

I see, you bought an aftermarket small digital voltmeter that had 3 digits displayed. A cheap one like this for instance.


Each digit was the same 7 segment style as the flashlight display. Then you jumpered the 7 or 8 wires that lit up the 2nd or 3rd digit (the one displaying tenths of a volt) to the flashlights single digit display.

That’s pretty smart. :+1:

Ahh, ok. Yes, didn't follow that. Look'n at your pics, you got definite non-CREE LED's there - think mine are real XM-L2's based on the look and power/output. I assume you got it here at DX: dx.com/p/fandyfire-r8-8-led-7000lm

Interesting. I have an identical un-branded 9-emitter clone of that light since back in June of 2016, that arrived DOA from DX. ( the one i have the driver arrived dead. I am modding it with a mechanical clickie side switch, Nanjq Q-Lite driver, and nine Nichia 219B or C emitters in place of the 3535 no-name LEDs it came with.

Guessing mine doesn't have Crees, but a at $20.01, I just wanted the bones.

Just wanted to say that I am one of the members who originally bought one of these UF SRK style lights some time ago & rated it highly for the price.
In fact myself & Teacher got a 4 led version each & were very impressed with them.
In the last couple of days Teacher has got a 9 led version & I have a 7 led version on it”s way which should arrive this coming week.
Teacher has confirmed that his new 9 led version is not the same quality as his original 4 led version.
Thinner rougher threads, not the same chunky raised positive contact ring.
He has not stripped it yet but I expect the shelf has gone as well :frowning:
I expect my 7 led version to be the same.
It seems that UF has reduced the quality of the components/build in these lights.

Wut? $20? Where did you get it for that price? That's a great price for this light. at DX, they are close to double that.

Thanks for the info! This is interesting. I thought this light caught on with a small group, just couldn't find the posts/threads. If you have or find any photos of the earlier or later versions, please post in this thread.

So sounds like so far:

  • they downgraded the model/design by removing the shelf, thinned the contact plate, poorer thread design, though I thought my unit has pretty good quality threads, as shown in the OP picture
  • LED's can be anything, whether it bares the UltraFire name or not, but mine bought from UltraFire.com is listed as CREE LED's and does appear to be CREE LED's