Hot gas will make short work of the XP-G2s for sure…I haven’t tried it on XP-Ls yet…just XM-L2s, XP-G2s, and XP-E2s. I always slice a + in the dome then suspend it in a jar of gas and let it boil until the dome drops off or is about to drop off. I dedomed 15 XP-G2 S4 0Ds and 9 XM-L2 U4 1As using this method last Saturday. There was no dome left whatsoever…not even around the bond wires. Just make sure you use at least 91% Isopropyl alcohol to wash the gas off of the emitter then canned air to blow any remaining silicone off.
thanks :+1:
If you really have achieved this with almost no lumen loss then I salute you sir! :+1: I was one of if not the first to start dedoming many years ago. Developed many many methods over the years but nothing in my arsenal can dedome these newer LEDs. I have attempted to get some trimethyl phosphate and I’m finding it very difficult. Seems it is hard to get unless you are a research facility or large business. If you don’t mind my asking how were you able to get it?
Yes I remember that times when you started with de doming and making small pocket rockets.
You also did your own hand made copper dtp boards before noctigon and sinkpad.
And of course you held all candela records but I don’t know if you are on the top at the moment.
MEM for example from this forum(I thought that you are under that nick) - he said he invented RA-reflective aperture and that his patent was stolen from Wavien, and he really can produce his own versions of them but he disappeared from forum) and has showed 1,5mcd aspheric test.
Check his post… He really is crazy scientist…
I’ve seen some of his stuff but was not aware he had a patent on the collar. MEM is definitely not me though;) As far as I know my Victor Enthusiast is still the highest performing production light at 1.3Mcd. My lab projects are waaaaaaay past that however. 
The dedoming I was performing predated the pocket rockets BTW. That was the first I put it in production lights but earlier works with dedoming were in announced new records although I didn’t specify how I got there.
Good to know that there is still place for improvements but not from Cree kitchen right? I figured out from last post that you may be making your own led emitter? If so that would be really something… You could earn more on led emitters than on particular super thrower mods…
There are approximately 10 000 modders on the world and we would all need from 10-100 pcs of them for our lights so I am really looking forward for something that can be equally good or better than good old and vanished G2S42B.
I don’t want to derail this thread but yes I have been working on making my own LEDs. But not the epi layers. That is way beyond my capabilities. I am just mixing and matching off the shelf components. Swapping phosphor to other LEDs. Getting good enough to have a few hits along with a lot of misses. I can now reliably lift old school Cree phosphors(the good ones). Laying them down and binding them perfectly every time is proving difficult. If not perfect then I get massive thermal quenching.
Don’t worry no one will get mad for a bit off topic talk here.
And if we all consider just a bit on that it is not off topic at all…
Making our own leds out of mixture of recycled leds is an interesting idea and of course we would need to de dome them for scraping and phosphor collecting.
I like your idea and I hope you’ll manage to crack it out. It will sure be hard… For example here we have interesting pic from Djozz:
So it would be really interesting to know how to put phosphor back on scraped dedomed emitter. My guess is that it should be melted somehow and than poured thinly on emitter surface?…
For that some kind of mold should be used around emitter cube and then when we pour hot phosphor in it and then it should probably be evenly spread under pressure?(some kind of glass above mold which will push off excess phosphor away?)
The thing that I would be concerned in mentioned method is how to scrape and put phosphor back around those tiny + wires on lets say XP-G2 emitter scrape.
I have read this whole thread. Some parts multiple times and I’m still afraid to ruin my xpl2.2 leds. I might need to just such it up and try it like I did when doing my first xml2. My hesitation is that my results are never like those I see here even after practice and doing everything right. I’m using hot MEK. maybe it’s a weak batch?
Never mind Mitko. I found a way. And just for the record it doesn’t contain any of the chemicals you were using. Does this count as a perfect XHP35 dedome?
I’ll be honest with you. I’m not 100% there but as of now the best I have achieved is attempting to keep the phosphor completely intact. Even just the act of scraping the phosphor off damages the phosphor. I developed a way to do it without scraping.
Buuuut. I still have issues when it comes to transplanting it to the new die. If not perfect thermal quenching kicks in hard. Also on even my best transplant it doesn’t perform quite as good. Been trying to nail down why.
Not Bad! 
There is always more than one way to skin a deer :+1:
You probably cut it with scalpel from side to side which allowed better fluid flow and thus better dome degradation?
I did not have any need for such large emitter so far but I am more than sure that I could do same or even better than you guys.
I even managed to de dome Osram Oslon 4715AS emitter
Saabluster,
Where will you put it? This ain’t go to any aspheric light right?
Saablaster I’m interested to know what method you used 
Looks awesome !
I’m about to do my first dedome. It will be an XM-L2 U2 1A. What would be the easiest method to do? I’d like it to be a bit warmer but hopefully without the green tint shift…
That dedomed XHP35 looks fantastic! I can't tell, but is the phosphor surface ok? Looks softened up or something, maybe a result of chemical treatments?
Hopefully it's not too labor intensive. Guess that's the ultimate thing we want to achieve - not just one offs that take hours of work, but a repeatable, predictable process. The process can take hours, but if we had to spend hours to do one with high risks, it's not very practical to make in batches.
I’m gunna be using MEK for a dedome but I just need something answered.
I see you all dedome on the board. Do you then reflow onto a fresh board afterwards or is an alcohol rinse sufficient!
I rinsed with isopropanol after dedoming with MEK on the board, and I’ve not seen any adverse effects.
Awesome, dedomed and scraped xpg3 here we come!!!
Excellent Mitko, is the most XP cleanest eh seen, what recommendation can you give me to clean the remaining silicone surplus after putting it in gas to dedomar it? Eh used a toothpick but in several occasions eh cut the 2 wires that go to the phosphorus of the led. I have been told to try compressed air, but I doubt the out of the air will lift the phosphorus of the led. Thank you!