Sorry I’m late to the party.
If you do another round, I would be interested in a couple of 17mm drivers. Please add me to “the list”. Thanks!
I’ll be interested in a few more too!! 
Looking good Lexel! 
Still in need of a L6 driver so sign me up.
for next batch please use this topic
I checked for paypal payments and one payment i cant find in my PM and Excel sheet
P.S.
solved
This is why I always ask anyone sending my a payment to include the following details in the notes. I have had too many cases where I just can’t figure out who is who and what is what with unlabeled payments.
I ask for them to list:
The item(s) being ordered
Forum name
Address
This way worst case I can contact them via PM.
good news today 200 AMC7135 got delivered
so more reflow work for this afternoon and evening
I got no reponse for days from kaizer for days
If he does not answer till wednesday a 17 and 30mm get free from reservation
so finally reflowed all those 200 AMCs and some MCU sides of 17/20/22mm
in the picture on the left side drivers that are ready to be programmed and tested,
already passed visual check, with some that needed some parts aligned right, remove solder blob shorts between pads
on the right side drivers with AMCs missing as I expect 100 from the last order I added after I got more MCUs and fets to build some extra drivers
I did learning by doing for reflowing drivers
I learned how to apply a tiny but sufficient amount of solder paste with some tricks
just see one of the first vs the last, optical far better, but electrical identical
so we got for programming
1 15mm Narsil
4 17mm Narsil
9 17mm Bistro
1 20mm Bistro
1 20mm Narsil
1 21mm Bistro
3 21mm Narsil
1 22mm Bistro
1 22mm Narsil
12 30mm 2S LDO Narsil
4 30mm 1S Narsil
3 38.5 1S Narsil
At this rate you will surpass myself in the most TA drivers built lol.
The latest drivers do look much better, you don’t need much paste at all. This is why the stencils are so nice, they give you the perfect amount and put it in the perfect spot every time and in a a couple of seconds too boot!
A tip for better reflowing is to reflow the top side components first and heat the pcb from the bottom with about ~350-380c air. First off this lets you use much higher air speeds without blowing components off and it also ensures the best possible connection.
The 7135 side just do like normal from the top of the components. They are much easier to deal with like this.
Added indicator resistors to all Narsil drivers
Wiring like in this picture
first driver flashed and under testing and temp calibration
With lots of happy on lookers. 
first 8 Narsil driver cleaned from flux, electrical check
test and temperature calibration
Wooo Hoooo!
:+1:
Input
100 AMC7135
3 17mm boards
Output first orders complete to get shipped
this is now the 3. board witch such an issue
not enough solder mask paint, and I get ground short from back of one AMC7135
costed me 1.5 hours so far
board looks messy when you unsolder those AMCs too often
Those shorts are almost always a result of too much solder paste. This is why I recommended the stincles. They make it much easier to get the right amount but not too much.
This is a case where less is more.
The mask looks good, the solder looks to have been pushed up from the FET having too much paste.
Generally if you replace the 7135 and reflow it back on it will work fine as that removed a little bit of solder paste when you do that.
Lexel, can you explain what “tactical” means on your spread sheet?
Also, on the drivers with resistors added for LEDs, can you explain the difference between indicator LED and lighted side switch LED?
Thanks
I still haven’t decided which version of Narsil to go with.
tactical means if you got a tailswitch the light always get in turbo as you turn the power on
there are 3 settings atm for start up, 2 blinks with low mode, turbo and no light
indicator LED blinks out what you configured it in UI settings
lighted sideswitch just lights the switch as soon as you connect the battery with tailswitch, but it has parasitic drain and can overdischarge batteries