Their Zircon range would probably be more effective since it’s designed with LEDs in mind.
Maukka,
The filters finally arrived from US. Are you still interested in one?
I will need find out how much the shipping is from DK to FI.
regards,
Val
Sure, I’ll hit you with a pm.
What does it do? Excuse my ignorance.
It is a sample book with all the colour filters that Lee produces. These filters are usually used for theater lighting, in front of a spotlight.
Use for flashlights is limited, you can create and alter tints with them, at the cost of light output. The sample filters in this book are large enough for most smaller flashlights. For me it is a nice thing to have, but I will probably not use it much for anything.
Got the Lee filter samples from Valor today. Tried it with a diffused Xiaomi USB light, that has a greenish tint (gets worse with higher output modes). Measured on the highest of the five modes.
The diffusing filters (a lot of different kinds) also seem very cool.
Three different minus green filters tested: minus eighth, quarter and half.
Light loss
No filter: 100 %
1/8: 88.8 %
1/4: 83.8 %
1/2: 73.7 %
Color temperature shifts a bit lower with the filters. Here’s the CRI data.
No filter
1/8 minus green
1/4 minus green
1/2 minus green
Holy moly…I’m glad I sent you those filters.
I’m really curious what your test setup is?
Care to tell a bit more about your intstruments? 
I’m using an X-rite i1Pro with BabelColor CT&A and just Excel for the CIE chromaticity plot from the xy-coordinate data given by CT&A.
Cool, thanks!..I wonder if a cheaper X-rite ColorMunki Display could be used for similar test… :nerd_face:
I can recommend the i1Display Pro and the free Argyll commandline software. I use those two to do my runtime graphs. The spotread program bundled in the Argyll package gives you the color temperature and xy-coordinates for tint, but you would need a spectrophotometer for CRI data and spectral distribution. Don’t have experience with the ColorMunki, but it looks simliar to the i1Display Pro, which is not that much more expensive.
I will look into it 
Ordered some sheets of Lee Zircon filters. Six 61x61cm sheets were 40 euros. They’re supposed to handle heat better. I got the minus green filters in three variations, 803, 804 and 805.
Here they are installed in front of the Olight S1 Mini CW. Normal minus green filters are included. The 804 and 803 Zircon filters are better at retaining the color temperature while just moving the tint towards the BBL. However, they can’t be used to correct a severe green tint. Also would have wanted the stronger 802, but it wasn’t available.
Here’s the relative output (click links for CRI data):
No filter : 100%
Zircon 803 : 79.9%
Zircon 804 : 83.6%
Zircon 805 : 86.6%
279 -Eighth : 87.2%
249 -Quarter : 81.5%
248 -Half : 71.5%
Tint graph
Also, finally got my Acebeam X45 to be what it was supposed to be from the factory. Excellet CRI, great warmish tint with acceptable shift thanks to the sliced XHP70s. Also, no tint shift between modes, just CCT shift. Green on the lower modes is very common on Crees.
Of course, this is all at the cost of output. It’s now at about 50% compared to stock.
CRI data
Tint graph
Thanks a lot for the test!
thanks for the filter tests maukka
I have been using my improved Cu S Mini and like it much better with the filter
Stock Cu S Mini XM-L2
same light as above, but added 1/2 minus green Lee Filter
(I added the pics of a stock Cu S Mini and my Cu S Mini w filter, pointing to the filter I used, although maukka actually tested an S1 Mini…)
here is the difference between the Cu S Mini and the aluminum S1 Mini that maukka tested… (I combined the two images) click the links in this paragraph to see the full reviews.
How did you install the filter Jon? Also would be curious to see white wall pics you are famous for . . .
I put double sided scotch tape on the filter.
the palm shots above are the most direct comparison I have for the S Mini w and w out filter
here are a couple of my modded maratacs:
3000k 219c on left, 3000k 219c w –1/4 green on right
and here are a few lights with different density minus green
and here is a beamshot of the 3 lights pictured, the s mini w filter is in this beamshot, (it is still green in the middle, but less)
here is the S Mini w no filter, I don’t have the same shot with filter added, but this does show how green the stock XM-L2 is
two separate shots of a Trustfire TK05 w XM-L2, combined by screenshot (not identical white balance)
Trustfire TK05 w XM-L2, w reflector on left, Olight S Mini w XM-L2 w TIR on right, shot taken together, so same white balance
perfect, thanks!!
One thing to note here is that standard Lee Filters degrade when exposed to high temperatures. The smaller a flashlight is the higher the temperature of the filter because it is closer to the LED. If you use high mode a lot or direct-driven triple/quad LED flashlights, this should be considered.
The LEE Zircon Filters were devloped to prevent this. They are basically heat tolerant filters and also available with minus-green.
agreed, if you have a problem melting Lee Filters, the Zircon might help
I don’t have a problem melting standard filters, but I don’t use thousands of lumens, and do not own a D4
Is there a 1/2 minus green in Zircon?.. if so, that would be a good filter to use on the 1000 lumen lights
In this test, there was no 1/2 minus green in Zircon, and you can see that the others all kept the XM-L2 tint of the Cu Olight S Mini, above the BBL