I got some Be-Cu springs as well, dont need to be cut and bend, they simply fit
but as you solder the positive wire to the top of the spring there is no need for low resistance spring, you can use thin steel springs
The Be-Cu springs are not nearly as flexible as steel springs, first time compressed they get shorter
Correct, the pass-through in the TA drivers means that spring resistance is a non-issue. All that matters is that the spring holds the battery in place and keeps it from hitting the 7135’s.
The potential problem is the length of the springs in the op. I’d have to measure but the original spring on the L5’s driver looks like 6 or 7 mm uncompressed.
NarsilM got released, it is a bit different with temp. calibration in User settings
The only improvement I see in LVP for 2S lights, but it lost some setings to get the UI Settings easier
Ok we met the minimum number of driver to start ordering parts and boards
I will order from digikey this time later when the first Oshpark boards arrive, so the number of drivers is not limited by an early order from digikey parts
Priced for Bistro HD OTSM and NarsilM updated
Option for customized modespacing/modegroups added or you give mne a customized HEX file
For the lights 60-70°C for single LED should be OK
for Triples in small hosts it should be less as the head can get hot fast while the LED driver is relatively cold
Lights like the L6 with tailswitch can be set up to go in turbo when battery power is applied, or 2 low blinks or nothing at all
It might be also possible over the advanced setting interface to get the light come up at last memorized level
I am trying to figure out how to get the code working to start at low, when the light gets powered on with tailswitch
I hope those settings can be achieved tailswitch PO: moon (M) low (L) Turbo (T) 2 blinks (2B) mode memory (MM) no output (NO)
On last batch when people did not specify a temperature for protection I set 60°C, not too aggresive but also a temperature where Triples on a Host like Eagle Eye X6 does not overheat
Its a protection if the light gets turned on unattended, lowering the output of the light, not a temperature control keeping the light on that temperatue
50°C is quite low for temperature protection, my nitecore P12 gets to 60°C and it is still comfortable to hold on the tube
Lights with DTP star have no problem to survive over 70°C head temperature,
there should be enough time that a good portion of that heat gets to the driver, of course the driver will always stay a big cooler than the head if its not potted to the shelf of the emitters
so the longer the light needs to heat up the more heat the driver will get as well, so the temperature can be set high
on Convoy S2+ Triles that draw like 12-14A the head gets very fast very hot, while the driver is still on a moderate temperature, there I would go for 50-55°C
Thank you for all that Lexel. Okay, I’ll go for standard 60 C for the temperature. I’m headed in the triple X6 direction. What you say makes sense to me. Thanks again!