What did you mod today?

@MtnDon :
I like my 60° TIR modded S10RIII. I put a 7A XM-L2, for indoor use I love warm tints.
TIR are great at diffusing light, this one is mostly used in moonlight mode for checking my baby’s diaper midnight.

That’s great… last night I popped the 60 degree into my S10R. It is perfect for some uses, but I like the 45 and 25 for other things. I think the 25 will be my EDC. For now at least. Very easy to swap them. The S10R with the 60 does make a very nice ML light for moving about dark rooms.

Can never have too many lights I guess. :slight_smile:

I finished up my first mod thread yesterday if anyone is interested. :slight_smile:

Polished S41s, H17F+, High Current, High CRI

Took out the driver from the S2+ pill, which was quite difficult, since the solder was not adsorbed well by the braid wire.
Then i managed to solder the S2+ spacer for the triple build to pill.
I used flux for copper water supply and heated the pill on an electric heating plate which went really well.
Still waiting for the Mcpcb with optics to finish the build.



dual switch

I recieved my order from LEDDNA yesterday and this morning i did my second mod on my S2, i changed out the reflector for a 10 degree TIR optic…… what a difference. At first i took it out of the cell holder and used it, but the beam looked a bit lopsided. I couldent to get the led to center up, so i took it all back apart and Dremeled the TIR holder down to fit in and set it back in, and that fixed the problem. I have to say i really like TIR optics now, so i will have to buy another S2 and set it up with a 60 degree optic.

Well done, Steel! Every time I see a tterev colour light build I admire the work that is in it.

Today I tried to love the Eagle Eye X7 and failed at it.

First I checked what the XHP50.2 looked through the X7 reflector, got it almost right by sanding the base of the reflector a bit and push it tight against the ledboard without centerpiece. It was ok, but then I reassembled the light with the original XM-L2 and that beam was so nice and smooth in comparison that I decided that it was not meant for the XHP50.2 after all.

So I modded it with a 90CRI T3 7A4 XM-L2 (from Kaidomain, this emitter is highly under-appreciated, if you are into warm light: this is a gem, both tint and colour rendering are wonderful, get them while they last!!). I used the original driver but soldered two R100’s on top of the two existing R140’s for a bit more current. Bypassed both springs and used a dark green tailcap for extra flair. The output on high is 940 lumen now (in that great tint!), must be about 4 amps. Mid is 340lm, low is 10lm. The extra resistors messed up the modes a bit, it is now low-med-high-high, with memory, the two high’s are both 940lm. Double-click for strobe. I can not find any visible PWM.

So now I have made the X7 into something I really should like, rock-solid light, great beam, great tint, great output, and I still don’t like it, the design just puts me off :frowning:

So if anyone is interested, I will sell it for the cost of the parts plus shipping, so parts is about $20, plus $7.20 for Netherlands or $10.30 for EU. (~$20 for the rest of the world but I guess that is not an option for anyone)

Btw, the battery tube is narrow, my Keeppower 4200mAh IMR fits but the 5000mAh Liitokala does not fit.

S41S with XP-L HI V3 3C and 17DDm/bistro. Bypassed tail spring….arctic silver thermo paste.

Measured 13.8a at the tail. This thing gets hot in 10 seconds! Even with the optics, it gained some throw with the new emitters.

This was my first reflow ever and it’s easier than I thought. I heated up the mcpcb with my soldering iron and the reflow took less than 2 minutes.

Nice! Do you find the optics reach all the way to the emitters on yours?

The optics’ touching the top of the emitters, I did confirm when i put them in. I have the updated head if that matters.

Just commenting to say there some really nice mods going on here. :beer:

Fantastic mods!

Today I swapped the led in my new Jetbeam E10R.

The hard part was getting the bezel off, it was glued tight and needed a lot of bravery and near-demolishing of the flashlight. I got it off by 1) clamping the flashlight in a vice (the flat bits on the head were clamped in), 2) heating up the bezel fast and very hot with a small blowr torch with hot flame (more moderate heating with a small flame did not work), 3)after heating up wrapping the very hot bezel very fast and tight in a strip of inner tire and applying lots of force by hand. As you can see in the picture, the centering piece is partly melted, and cracked (but still very functional luckily).

It now has a Nichia 219B V1 sw45 R9080. Lost lots of light: currently on a 14500 high=350lm med=30lm low=2.5lm. This light has a great mode spacing IMO! The beam profile with this led is still very good and the tint, well… :heart_eyes:

Btw, the AR lens is slightly brown-ish and the tint looses (estimated by eye) a few hundred Kelvin because of that. Eventually I will try to find a non-coated 15mm lens for it

What always helps winning the fight is starting it by telling the light that you are prepared to kill it if needed :rage:

The hard part is having to back your words and provide the nessasary discipline. I have found the lights don’t respond either way so I stopped with the threats. I’ve saved a couple lights this way. :smiley:

I usually follow through being a man of my word, lost one or two thay way.
I warned them… :smiley:

Speak softly and carry a big hammer. I don’t threaten, I act. Then I start over. Being a carpenter my aim is better than average but they don’t know that. I think it’s more humane they don’t know what’s coming. :innocent:

More like a hack than a mod. And another case of polishing a turd from me, LoL.
This is the pill of one of those el cheapo Ultrafire zoomies. Originally it’s hollow, with just a tiny ledge for the star to sit on. So I filed a 5 cent coin and drilled two holes in it.

Before the hack, at 3 amps, in my usual ceiling test I got about a 4-5% drop in luminosity after 30 secs, and 10% after 5 minutes. According to Cree’s data that’s about 47ºC after 30 secs and 70ºC after 5 mins.
With the hack in place I measured a 6% drop in the output, give or take, after 5 minutes. That’s supposed to be about 55ºC, so a whooping 15ºC of improvement there

All in all:

Before: 47ºC after 30 secs, 70ºC after 5 mins
After: 39ºC after 30 secs, 55ºC after 5 mins

Today three of my lights that where using 105C/D drivers with that crappy stock firmware got a new life.

Convoy C8 with dedomed xp-g2 led running on 12 7135 chips
Convoy S2+ with Nichia 219C led running on 8 7135 chips
UF SK98 with dedomed xp-g2 led running on 6 7135 chips

I flashed their drivers with biscotti firmware. It was first time i did something like this so i may say that i leveled up my skills. Following some instructions that i found here on this forum made this much easier than expected, 10/10 :slight_smile:

Here is one picture of my setup

Nice job BobbyMK. FW editing and flashing was sort of a leap for me, but as you said it really wasn’t too hard with the documentation on the forum. It really opens up a new area of customization.