My driver arrived today, and is already in his pretty host : Nitecore HC30
What a wonderful UI ! I love the ramping, really intuitive, and fast at the same time !
Thank you very much once again Lexel !
Received mine today, as well, that was quicker than expected, thanks.
Thank you Lexel, received the drivers Tuesday!
Excellent work 
Got mine installed & working. Convoy L6, inspite of discovering my led is in backwards (reverse polarity).
Still trying to figure out how to get ramping to continue in the same direction. It seems to want to change directions.
Edit: nevermind about ramp direction, got it now.
Also, can I switch it from initially coming on at turbo with rear clicky, to the 2 blinks?
Thanks
Is this normal?
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Maybe it’s on a moon setting?
How do you turn the light off with the side switch, press and hold?
The illumination is way lower than moon or firefly. If it’s normal, it’s not a bad way for me to tell if I have turned tailswitch off, since I don’t have illum switches.
Side switch functions:
Press and hold = ramping(up or dn)
Quick press = on / off (with memory)
Double click = turbo
Here’s how mine works… your results might vary.
Convoy L6
TA Driver Infineon LDO Tactical 65° with Narsil V1.2 ?
From off…
–1/2 press of rear tail switch = momentary on (in Turbo) for signaling or instant glimpses.
From off…
-Full click on rear tail switch turns on to Turbo.
Side switch then controls:
>-Click = On / Off (with memory).
>-Double click = Turbo.
>-Click and hold = Ramping up or dn.
>-Long pause (1.5+ seconds) between Click & Holds continues ramping in the same direction.
>-Short pause between Click & Holds reverses ramping direction.
>-Short side switch click , turns off at any point in ramping and saves that level in memory, for when side switch turns it back on.
>-Tail click to off, or lockout, erases brightness level memory.
How do I program tail switch modes?…
A) Turbo (default)
B) 2 blinks
C) Nothing until side switch is pressed.
v1.2 has low voltage protection, but no temp control. If you do have temp control, then you have v1.4 and no lvp.
I understood it that tail switch modes had to be programmed into the firmware. They are not user adjusted. Lexel told me it was a few lines of code that had to be altered to get the tactical setting.
I specified temperature control, and they were marked as such, so I guess it is V1.4.
I misunderstood those tail switch options as being user defined. Turbo is the only way to have a momentary function, so its not bad in that respect. And a quick click of the side switch turns it off.
Looking across my acreage, I can quick scan a lot of ground in momentary mode in a second or two with it.
The ramping is awesome, and a lot more user friendly to fine tune the levels than I expected.
The faint LED could be an Infineon vs SIR800 difference, guess we’ll see.
Thanks
I agree with this assessment. I have had this happen to me as well with 7135’s on 2S drivers.
new batch is almost ready to go I said I start ordering stuff when 30 drivers are requested and will order parts for 50
There’s only one 7135 on there so it looks pretty easy to swap out. Maybe you have an old driver you don’t need that you can strip a 7135 off of. If not, MTN Electronics sells them super cheap.
I actually have a stip of 7135’s, just have to get some more practice in before attempting. I think dealing with these itty bitty parts is how I messed up my original driver (resistor mod), total noob, and not steady 63 yr old hands. BTW, there’s 8 7135 on one side and the single on the other….???
Oh yeah, post #102 shows the backside. So 9 in total. I wish I knew how to narrow it down to find the faulty one.
Removing all of them and cleaning the pads is not too hard, but soldering new ones would be a pain by hand. You’d need a hot air reflow station and solder paste to do it quick and easy.
Its some pretty bad luck. If you really want to fix it, maybe ask Richard at MTN if he could do it.
I hope it’s a rare occurrence.
Package delivered today. I’ll force myself to wait for the solder station I ordered that’s scheduled for delivery wednesday before starting on the lvp mods for the 2s light but will install one as-is in the D01. I’ve been searching for another grey D01 but the major sources are out of stock so it will remain 1s3p until I find another, make a 2s battery tube, or cut and extend the 1s tube.
Wait what? 
Grey battery tube for a D01? :smiling_imp:
I’ve been trying to get an idea how these are made and I found a really good video on reflow ovens. There’s lots of good info here.
Lexel, are you using a small oven like this or a different method?
I got my driver today!
I haven’t installed it yet.
For you guys with L6’s and who want to know when your rear switch is on and off as well as more easily find the side switch in the dark, then check out this thread starting at post 265.
I try my best to describe how to make a lighted side switch that comes on when the tail switch is on. It’s handy whenever you have a driver that can turn the flashlight on and off with the side switch.
I haven’t installed my TA driver yet, but I have the pads labeled where you would connect the switch and led power. I’ll be confirming all this soon.
2 decently bright leds caused a 0.4 milliamp drain. I use my light for brief blasts here and there at work and the tail switch stays on roughly 40 hours per week, then I recharge the batteries. This extra drain has no effect at all for me.
Now sitting on a shelf with the tail switch on for months at a time I’m sure would drop your battery voltage. Then again, if it’s going to sit and not be used, then turn the tail switch off. Duh. Lol
Amp draw while on standby was 0.48 milliamps. About 0.4 of that is the LEDs I added. So the driver itself is only about 0.08 milliamps. That’s lower than I expected. My Kaidoman version FX30 driver had a 1.45 milliamp draw all by itself.
I hope this helps others.