Review: XTAR S1 (3 x XM-L U2, magnetic ring selector, 30 - 2800 lumens ANSI)

The tactile feel of the magnetic ring is pretty good, enough resistance and also ease of twist. I'd say same "quality" of feel as the SWM V60C. There are indents and i don't think it would wear out.

Thanks 2100. Can always count on you.

I have a TK70 now but Im quite tempted by this S1. Do you reckon its worth selling the TK70 for this? Although I do hate the PWM of S1 (its such a good torch, it shouldnt have PWM! )

The TK70 is a good flashlight, i am using it in 3D config with 2 x unprotected 32600. Hence there there is always a small risk even though i keep that at bay with regligious voltage checking. 4 x NiMH is too unwieldy for normal daily use. It's not the weight but the very high polar inertia, you cannot swing it around easily.

Both put out the same amount of light OTF (you can't notice the diff, trust me). As for throw, it is 60k vs 90k cd or 33.3% diff, so it is just a little visibly cut in throw. I have always maintained that you cannot tell any difference if it's < 20%. As you can see in the pictures, there really is just a wee bit of difference and only noticeable when you directly A-B them side by side.

The Xtar S1 is definitely much easier to use and bring around, even in a small haversack stuffed with many stuff like food/water. It is not a EDC even with a holster though.

I am current talking to Xtar HK to see if they can bump up the PWM. As for efficiency of this vs current controlled, well it is a triple XM-L and 3 x 18650...how much runtime do people want? Triple XM-Ls are already very efficient even at 1000 lumens. LOL!

Thanks! PWM for me is about it annoying me. I can detect it quite easily and its rather distracting. Unless they remove it from their final model, i think this isnt the light for me :( and i did want to like it very much!

I told them to see if 1-2kHz region is ok to do (that's the iTP flashlights frequency). They have some reason not to do it at 20kHz, not sure why but i guess for engineering they'd have their reasons.

But seriously 475Hz is not that bad, it is very usable. This is 3X faster than most budget lights.

My personal preference and priority is usually to use the light more and as often as possible. We are living in cities, we already don't have much chance to use it. Hence I am ok to accept some negatives. Seriously I do use the TK70 quite a lot (several thousand hours), but most of the time it is tailstanded as a night light in the lowest mode. Even in the house i don't manage to bring it around often. The Xtar S1 is definitely not small but it's still ok to tailstand in the toilet and move around etc.... I conbsider that as the biggest size to use.

Eg, The XTAR is as easy to use as your Olight M3X, SWM T40CS, just 2X heavier. If you hold your TK70 in your left hand and a Olight M3X in your right and you move around, the difference is telling.

I think I will hold off on the S1 at the moment. USD200 for a light with PWM is no-go for me, I'm afraid. If they remove, I might think twice. And like you said, the TK70 is just an awesome light!

Where do they get the 2800 lumen figure from?

If you are reading 6.2 amps, thats 2.1 amps per emitter which is what? 600ish lumens each?

The TK70 does 3 amps per emitter which is more like 850 lumens per emitter.

Joe,

(1) The TK70 does not do 3 amps per emitter. As far as my knowledge goes only forummers claimed that. It's probably pretty close, and anyway it's not worth to get into a debate with the other folks regarding this. I dwell more on measuring with the lux meter.

(2) This is U2, if you use the xls LED calculator and key in 320lm @ 700mA, you'd get 816 emitter lumens for 2.1A. You get 899 lumens for 2.8A drive for a T6.

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/2525 <<- calculator

(3) Just measured again by cleaning the MKNE IMR cell's surface and pressing harder, actually i was able to get 6.5A-6.6A peak. Unfortunately it's not really easy to measure.

(4) Important thing is, if you look above, TK70 reflected bounce is ~ 220 lux. Xtar S1 is ~ 210 with 3 x 18650. I was able to get this ~ 210 with the MKNE IMR as well with the tailcap screwed on. That is what is important and is accurate. The current reading is for reference only.

Yeah, the final measurements for output are what really matters, everything else is really just working back from that!

Remember that a good high capacity IMR 26650 even under load would be well over the forward voltage of the XM-L LEDs (maybe 3.9v under load fully charged with the XM-L vf of around 3.3v @2.3-2.5 amps) with the full calculation you get:

6.6 x 3.9 = 25.74

/100 x 90 (assume 90% efficient circuit) = 23.166

/3 (3 XM-Ls) = 7.722

/3.3 (each 3.3v vf) = 2.34 amps to each emitter.

According to the spreadsheet that means nearly 900 lumens for each U2, which would make almost the claimed amount at the emitter(s ).

hehe.... Redforest UK's calculations are deep....i understand part of it only at first glance.

Anyway Xtar S1 is 475Hz PWM for my copy (see if production copies are different), that's not too bad and very usable. Just received my 5 x XM-L Trustfire TR-J12, it's 124Hz. Now that's bad!

It's got very poor regulation compare to the Nitecore and Olight triple XML lights.

is this the most expensive DD light?

how2,

It's not DD aka Direct Drive. I think Selfbuilt chose the wrong word. If you apply his definition of DD, then each and every Ultrafire, Trustfire, Uniquefire is DD.

I measured only 6 amps plus at the tail. It should be approx 15A (good cells) at the tail if it were to be DD. heh.... Also with Direct Drive, it would never be able to do > 30 mins run, let alone 76 mins till the knee drops.

Selfbuilt has provided lots of data in CPF, hence i don't feel like it's nice to mess up his review thread just due to a bit of "semantics".

It certainly is not boosted as the current falls as it's discharged, because the 3 cells are in parallel. TM11 managed to pull it off though. Not the same experience as those with cells in series like TK70, TR-J12, Uniquefire 3900 and the likes.

You might wanna check out his graphs. 400 -> 300 in 60 mins. Drop of 25%. Can you see a difference between 75% and 100%, yes you can....try a thrower light that has 40k lux and 30k lux at a distant target. But in real life usage without A/B, no way.

TM11

XTAR S1

Seems unregulated compared to the other lights.

It is not regulated in a straight line, definitely. So it is not 100% perfect, that i'd agree. In fact many 2 x 18650 lights like Fandyfire STL-V6 has a flatter line regulation. A lot of 1 x 18650 lights like even the Jetbeam RRT-2 XM-L cannot maintain a flat line regulation till the end like the multi-cell lights. All 1 x 18650 light sucks? I just want to put some perspective into things. Maybe i may seem to be defending the light because I got a "review copy", but allow me to present my case.

This so-called lack of regulation is the least of my worries. Though the nearly 500Hz PWM is unobtrusive and very usable, it is still mildly visible and i guess to the purist flashaholics that is "not nearly enough" because Olight/Fenix/Jetbeam/Nitecore can do it anyway (which is true). The PWM needs to be pushed up to at least 1kHz....heck while they are at it just push it up to 5kHz (and be done with it) if they can't drive it by varying the current like the Sunwaymans. :D

This is the difference in throw output at a distant object, the difference is ~ 33.3%.

60k cd

90k cd

As long as we are talking about higher draw lights like in the 2.5A range (corresponding lumens in the > 600L range), it proves to be very difficult to do with single cell. Take for example, a Lumintop TD15X. Check out the 1 x 18650 curve. (this is Selfbuilt's work)

And this is the Thrunite TN12 and gang

2100 how much did you pay for this light?

They are trying to sell this light for $175.

usd175 is delivered i guess, direct from XTAR. I am not supposed to say, but of course it's easy to guess that i paid a slightly lower price (and taking a caculated risk as well as being an early adopter or rather tester!). I don't even have lanyard or O-rings!

The other dealers have not really got stock yet, i have asked.

It's better to get the Olight and Nitecore or Finex as they all seem to be better regulated.

2100 does the lens have a reflective coating?

The Xtar has a very inefficent driver as you can see from selfbuilt graphs.

The Xtar produces more light for the first 16mins, then the SR92 whops it's butt from then on.

Run time for Xtar on Max 1hour and 26mins

Run time for SR92 on 1hour 51mins

2100 why can you not say how much you paid for it?

Many reviewer get there lights for Free and they state this, some just say evaluation copy or review copy.

I'm a straight talker as most of you lot know. I said the Dry was ugly. I have no problems when people review lights that they get for free, I will always take the reviews with a pinch of salt.

What I do not like is when people are not clear whether they got it free or not.

Come on 2100 be a man and tell us.