Driver and Switch ribbon, very close to the ground. And a row of resistors!!!!
You could remove the driver cover screws, pop the driver out and look at the switch ribbon for frays, maybe move it around a bit and re-assemble, and see if the emitter stops glowing? I wish I had it so I could monkey with it!!!
I have some promissing news! I removed the bezel and pulled out a bit the wire ribbon of the e-switch and Voila! the glowing dissapeared to the naked eye. Then I push the flashlight agains my face to close all the surrounding light. It seems that the led still glows a bit but less than a GITD hand of a wrist watch.
I have to say that Kawi boy was right. it seems that the wires of the e-switch were causing the strange issue and I guess that the remainig almost undetectable glow that remains on the led (I repeat it only can bee seen in total darkness and a when the pupils dilate enought) is the famous parassitic drain. but correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks you all to help me to solve this annoying trouble and I hope it will serve to other that may experiment the same issue.
Woo Hoo Shorting! Well not woo hoo for you! But I seem to remember having something similar, but it was that blue ring power on thingy, it would come on when ever it wanted too? Never figured it out, so I ripped the guts out of it and put a 4S LD-2 M2 3amp Linear driver in it pushed that LED to the MAX and never looked back!!!
I dislike Boost drivers anyways, their sooo temper -mental!!!
You can get ya some liquid rubber, I use Dynatex Brush On Electrical Tape and try to cover where ever you have that short, just let it dry completely or the vapors will fog your reflector if not dried fully!
Hi HKJ, yes the flashlight seems to perform as should be. But the rare thing appeared suddenly yesterday! It means that something happens…
That means there is a tiny leakage current, maybe due to moisture or contamination on the electronic circuit or maybe because the circuit is a bit warm (Electronic parts have higher leakage current when warm).
The 4 leds will not turn on at exactly the same voltage, that is probably the reason that only some of the are glowing (It can also be leakage current inside the led, that prevents some of them from glowing).
—
My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/
Unfortunately here in Argentina all of this wonder materials that you have in almost all hardware stores are not available but I will try to find some thing similar.
Location: Acquasanta,Italia/ Valley Forge, Pa. USA
FlashMax wrote:
I have to say that Kawi boy was right. it seems that the wires of the e-switch were causing the strange issue and I guess that the remainig almost undetectable glow that remains on the led (I repeat it only can bee seen in total darkness and a when the pupils dilate enought) is the famous parassitic drain. but correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks you all to help me to solve this annoying trouble and I hope it will serve to other that may experiment the same issue.
Again sorry for my english.
I am glad you guys figured it out!!
I am basing this assessment in comparison with mine.
I do NOT believe the minimal light that remains in your light is from parasitic drain.It must still be tied in w/ your electrical problem.
I went in a closet that was completely dark. Turned the light on ML. Turned it off. 100% of the light was gone immediately and I waited a minute or so for my eyes to adjust more and there was ZERO illumination coming from the emitter.
You certainly made progress and as I posted w/ MY DIFFERENT problem,,,,,,,Keep the batteries OUT of your light until you are ready to use them!
—
Solitude breeds contemplation which creates clarity.
Environment molds a person. Perseverance changes them.
If it’s barely noticeable —just lock out the light manually ( unscrew battery tube slightly from the head) when not in use—I usually do this with all my E switch lights to assure no parasitic drain or accidental powering on
Driver and Switch ribbon, very close to the ground. And a row of resistors!!!!
You could remove the driver cover screws, pop the driver out and look at the switch ribbon for frays, maybe move it around a bit and re-assemble, and see if the emitter stops glowing? I wish I had it so I could monkey with it!!!
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
I have some promissing news! I removed the bezel and pulled out a bit the wire ribbon of the e-switch and Voila! the glowing dissapeared to the naked eye. Then I push the flashlight agains my face to close all the surrounding light. It seems that the led still glows a bit but less than a GITD hand of a wrist watch.
Max
I have to say that Kawi boy was right. it seems that the wires of the e-switch were causing the strange issue and I guess that the remainig almost undetectable glow that remains on the led (I repeat it only can bee seen in total darkness and a when the pupils dilate enought) is the famous parassitic drain. but correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks you all to help me to solve this annoying trouble and I hope it will serve to other that may experiment the same issue.
Again sorry for my english.
Max
Woo Hoo Shorting! Well not woo hoo for you! But I seem to remember having something similar, but it was that blue ring power on thingy, it would come on when ever it wanted too? Never figured it out, so I ripped the guts out of it and put a 4S LD-2 M2 3amp Linear driver in it pushed that LED to the MAX and never looked back!!!
I dislike Boost drivers anyways, their sooo temper -mental!!!
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
You can get ya some liquid rubber, I use Dynatex Brush On Electrical Tape and try to cover where ever you have that short, just let it dry completely or the vapors will fog your reflector if not dried fully!
Yeah found out the usual way, the hard way!
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
That means there is a tiny leakage current, maybe due to moisture or contamination on the electronic circuit or maybe because the circuit is a bit warm (Electronic parts have higher leakage current when warm).
The 4 leds will not turn on at exactly the same voltage, that is probably the reason that only some of the are glowing (It can also be leakage current inside the led, that prevents some of them from glowing).
My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/
Unfortunately here in Argentina all of this wonder materials that you have in almost all hardware stores are not available but I will try to find some thing similar.
Max
I am glad you guys figured it out!!
I am basing this assessment in comparison with mine.
I do NOT believe the minimal light that remains in your light is from parasitic drain.It must still be tied in w/ your electrical problem.
I went in a closet that was completely dark. Turned the light on ML. Turned it off. 100% of the light was gone immediately and I waited a minute or so for my eyes to adjust more and there was ZERO illumination coming from the emitter.
You certainly made progress and as I posted w/ MY DIFFERENT problem,,,,,,,Keep the batteries OUT of your light until you are ready to use them!
Solitude breeds contemplation which creates clarity.
Environment molds a person. Perseverance changes them.
WOLFDOG
If it’s barely noticeable —just lock out the light manually ( unscrew battery tube slightly from the head) when not in use—I usually do this with all my E switch lights to assure no parasitic drain or accidental powering on
Yes, I will do that. Thanks you all again for your valuable help
Max
I got my TN42 Holster from HKE today. A definite improvement over the strap!
The snap does not connect[I knew that from another member]. I guess they did not do any tests w/ a TN42 inside of it for measuring purposes!
The velcro still makes it secure.The TN42vn just happens to be in my rotation tonight!
Perfect timing.
Solitude breeds contemplation which creates clarity.
Environment molds a person. Perseverance changes them.
WOLFDOG
Beautyful, link to it?
Max
http://www.hkequipment.net/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=FLYPHM006
Solitude breeds contemplation which creates clarity.
Environment molds a person. Perseverance changes them.
WOLFDOG
Ok,,,,,,,,after using tonight,,,,It is 100% improvement over the strap and I am VERY impressed for these reasons.
1.It carries and distributes the weight very well.
2. The KEY is that it stayed stationary the whole time and does not move around like my TN31mb and TK75vn do when they are in their holsters.
No lie,,,it actually feels lighter on my hip for the reasons mentioned above than the TN31mb and TK75vn.
I will “pardon” the snap/button glitch for now!
I highly recommend it for people who use their lights a lot like wolfdog!!!
Solitude breeds contemplation which creates clarity.
Environment molds a person. Perseverance changes them.
WOLFDOG
I modded today for a german member a TN42 with GT driver
Throw went from 665 to 705kcd @2.54A
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
is that a small cooling fan at PCB? ))
Yeah, that`s me, ex-Narmattaru | Updated list of Aliexpress coupons and promocodes | How to choose flashlight, Main things in simple words
this is a big inductor
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
The stock driver is pretty amazing then!
USB power meter/tester thread
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