Finally, I have a very nice super high CRI Yuji floodlight.
The host used is a cheap Krisbow 10 watt floodlight bought from Ace Hardware store. Nothing worth to spare except the case and the driver. This outdoor floodlight has a sleek full cast aluminum body and low profile design. The glass cover is just a simple windows grade glass with sharp edges.
The original MCPCB installed with blob of thermal paste which wan't screwed down properly due to burrs in fixing holes. Total garbage. When I try to de-solder the LEDs off the board, it started to bubble below 220C. I always monitor my hot plate temp.
Found a broken 4 watt bulb, another Krisbow. Took the MCPCB, looked better. The LEDs were 5730 but the solder footprint is slightly different. A little scraping here and there and it fits the Yujis.
It's time to mod the case. Some drillings and M3x0,5 tappings. Swapped the MCPCB from the broken bulbs. Made two slots for screw fixing...
The Yujis installed. Not perfect due to footprint mismatch. I prioritized to align the cathode pads first. The broken path to anode connected with extra solder.
Soaked the finished board in IPA to clean the burnt flux. Tried to brush the brown residue but later changed my mind, too risky.
Applied the trusty MoS2 grease simply because I always forget to buy fancy thermal paste
This time the board is hard pressed against the case/heatsink.
Lapped the back of the glass cover using 320 grit silicone carbide powder to create slightly diffused lens. Looks good!
The driver outputs 9,45 watt to all 9 LEDs @290mA. About 11 watts total power consumed. The case got warm fast but still manageable under 46C (26C ambient).
Comparisons (ceiling bounced)
Thank you for the LED Jos. Now I have a super nice 5000K comparator light
- Clemence
EDIT: In hot sunny day (31C) and still air, the floodlight reached 35C hotter (66C). This worries me for long term continuous use. Need to find lower power supply and possibly better MCPCB. Next will be a fairer comparison to 5000K 9080 E21A