I have put a back order in on Digikey for a couple XHP70B-00-0000-0D0HM430G. No estimated ship date, but I am guessing similar to the June estimate from mouser.
Got an email from digikey updating the status of my backorder, they expect the LED to be in stock with them on June 14th.
Look what i found at kaidomain
http://kaidomain.com/p/S026863.Cree-XHP70_2-P2-3B-Neutral-White-5000K-LED-Emitter
http://kaidomain.com/p/S026860.Cree-XHP70_2-P2-1A-White-6000K-LED-Emitter
Im so tempted to get one for my L6 but i am afraid that the FET driver will be to much for this one.
Hey, finally!
Oops, that’s expensive…
Yeah, the price is a bit high, but that i think is because they are the only shop that sells them at the moment. Wait until few other shops list them, kai will adjust the price… Well at least that happened with the XHP50.2, initially was over $11, now it is less than $8.
This should be possible. I’m running an XHP50.2 80+ CRI direct drive from 2 sony VTC5’s in series. It’s pulling 10ish amps on fresh batteries then settles down to 8ish. Handles 100% absolutely fine but it does get hot rather quickly, not surprising given its in a C8.
Anyone knows what is the current bin of the Acebeam K60 in CW? Just wondering if replacing the old emitter with this new one would make a noticeable difference in brightness…
I tested L6 with the FX30 driver stock, with R100 added and with wire across the resistors using Liitokalas and KeepPower 5200 protected cells. All using an xhp70.
The most I could get out of it was 7.7 amps with the wire and Liitokalas.
When you say resistor mod for 8 to 10 amps are you talking about the current xhp70 or is that what your predicting the xhp70.2 will produce?
I’m guessing that your predicting that. With the wire and Liitokalas I swapped in the 50.2 and got about 8.9 amps. So I imagine the 70.2 would be higher still.
A wire on the driver might not be best, though. We might start out with the stock pair of R082 resistors and see what the new 70.2 will do. Maybe 7 amps? Then add resistors to bump it up and see what it can do.
The protected KeepPower 5200 might also be a good choice as it’s output is always less than the Liitokalas.
For instance, on a FET driver my L6 pulled 12 amps on the Liitokalas, but only 9.6 amps on the KeepPowers. They are rated for 10 amps through the protection circuitry. If that’s their limit then you could run any driver with the 70.2 and it would not go over 10 amps.
We need to form a battery list of what their limits are to find good matches with this new 70.2. Anyone else agree?
It should be brighter regardless of bin. The 70.2 will probably cause the amp draw to go up. This is assuming the batteries can handle that.
I don’t know what kind of driver the K60 uses, but I’m guessing it will handle the extra amps. This would be a good question for Acebeam since they know their drivers design.
I don’t know about that. Careful battery selection can limit the current draw making it okay to use FET drivers. I’ve got a FET in my L6 and I could swap in a 50.2 and see if my protected KeepPowers would limit current draw to 10 amps or under. They do with the older xhp70. Maybe some protected cells with a lower current limit would be better, like 7 or 8 amps?
Yes, I was estimating what the xhp70.2 would do since it has a much lower Vf then the current gen.
The driver should put out the same current with the same sense resistor, the LED should not have anything more then a minor effect on this if at all.
From my experience, with the batteries we have today, if the heat path is good and you keep the LED reasonably cool, they can generally handle whatever the battery can put out after it runs through a FET driver and reasonable wires (aka, ~20awg or smaller, I tend to use 24awg for these type of LED’s and make them as long as I want).
In fact I have yet to instantly kill one of these latest flip chip LED’s with a battery or on the bench. Only killed them with extended high temp use that ended up burning the silicone or die itself.
That’s what I thought as well since the FX30 is a constant current driver, but I got a big bump up in current from the xhp70 to xhp50.2.
It was suggested that maybe this was due to me using a wire across the sense resistors instead of an actual resistor. Like the wire made the driver go direct drive or something. Does that sound like a possibility?
So maybe the K60 would NOT get a boost in output just by swapping emitters.
Correct, the wire makes it go direct drive, there is no sense resistor in your case. If you instead go with an actual sense resistor then it will regulate the current instead of direct driving the LED.
Okay, that makes sense.
Dang, I was hoping a simple LED swap would give a boost to all drivers to a certain degree.
Oh well, we are back to looking at better bins to get higher output in that K60. Or get an L6 with fet and blow that K60 into the weeds. Lol
Well, you can still resistor mod it without going full direct drive. Although you will be “limited” to around ~7-8A, which is about perfect for most situations honestly.
The XHP70.2 should give a bit more output all else being the same and quite a bit more efficient wile doing it vs the last gen xhp70.
I like a P2 5000K upgrade. For that alone. I wanna see what they do in a MT03 - got one on the way.
P2 5000k 70 or 70.2? I have not seen either of these. Only seen the P2 in the cooler tints.
I think Tom have ordered a XHP70.2 from KD :
http://kaidomain.com/p/S026863.Cree-XHP70_2-P2-3B-Neutral-White-5000K-LED-Emitter
Interesting, high price and sad it is a 3B instead of a 3D but interesting for sure. What is the obsession with the B and C tints? It seems to be way to hard to find the A and D tints.