Djozz could possible gain happen with drilling how to say that bottom ring of reflector.
I mean on this and to totally flat that with main reflector catching surface? Possible more light catching could happen? And it seems that reflector has enough “meat” to withstand that?
Yeah, i was thinking about removing the bottom ring too.
Then you have a hole of around 21mm, so you can use a stock 20mm LED board.
(edit: i was mistaking the Courui reflector for this one…)
But how to centre it?
Centering was the main reason to keep the bottom of the reflector intact, I think it is half a mm now, so it can still hold a centering ring. The centering piece that I used neither fitted the reflector nor the led (the Black Flat is slightly bigger than the XP-G). So I had to ream the reflector hole a bit and I had to ream the hole in the centering piece a bit. It had the advantage that I could ream it to an exact tight fit so the led is really dead-center with a minimum of play while tightening the bezel (not zero play unfortunately, closing the bezel took a few tries before the hotspot was right).
Btw, I can recommend a good reamer for flashlight modding, I have this one:
Ooh that looks like a real useful tool djozz. I have just been using a small circular file and it doesn’t work great.
Djozz,
Thanks on advice. Sadly but I never thought about that tool. Now I will try to find something similar in local store.
You mentioned that Osram Oslon Black Flat is bigger than XP-G2? But you actually thought on a base not emittier itself? OBF should be XP-E2 size right?
Hey, i think i have the same one, only the handle is a little different.
I also have a smaller one.
A ‘must have’ tool i.m.o.
By the way, a while back i saw you have the same 80 Watt soldering iron as i do.
You know, the one (from Conrad?) that gets crazy hot. 
Just checked drawer and I also have something similar for accu drill
I will sacrifice one reflector and drill that circle completely in hope that reflector will catch more light.
You will not gain much output with that, because there is not a lot of light coming from the sides of the LED.
Besides, the distance to the reflector is very short there, so it will mainly add more warm white to the corona.
And I will get rid of that corona around hotspot and get pure hotspot with spill only?
I’m not sure how to get rid of the corona.
I have the fasttech reamer from above and it does not work as nice as the PB design, it has less edges in the round (hope that makes sense), and the angle is steeper so the edge of the hole will becone far from perpendicaular to the surface.
That aliexpress/banggood one looks good (but is it?)
Yeah, it’s okay. Good enough for aluminium.
The one from FastTech is more for chamfering the opening to reduce wear and tear on the wires, not really a reamer. I have one and it works ok for doing the chamfering, need a longer more gradual taper for the reaming effort with better cutting edges.
Jos, I found the PB Swiss Tools Reamer on Amazon for $68!!! Yikes! Bet it DOES work well, sure better!
Edit: That’s the 5-20mm , pretty sure you have the 2.5-12mm version that is about half that cost. Looking at one for $33. 
It does the job… 
Plan on buying an XHP35 HI mounted on a 25mm and just flatten the shelf. I did an XPL HI on a 16mm with a nice amount of throw but the donut hole is pretty bad.
I may of cheated here. If I could learn how to add extra chips I’d be real happy. ltp tried but I still failed miserably.
This is a 26mm MCPCB with dedomed XML2. I machined .25mm from the base of the reflector. On assembly it made no difference whether the isolator was installed or left off. The same petal pattern was still there.
You are kidding us right? 
Lux results since we have only 2.8A draw around 150kcd?
Machining is cheating Just kidding…
