Trustfire TR-J12 measurements (5 x XM-L)

Ergotelis, i already did further tests. The 215 and 225 lux figures are correct. There is a small but definitely measureable difference between 2-cell and 3-cell and it's repeatable. It's not due to heat. Prob some driver efficiency kind of thingy at different voltages.

Tailcap is 2.01A and 3.3A for 3-cell and 2-cell....I am using 4-inch long probes, and a decent DMM the Uni T UT-58E. Solarforce 2400, these cells give me higher current in the DRY than the XTAR 2600s. I don't like to give current measurements nowadays unless necessary as it is so variable.

I have already cleaned all contacts with Deoxit, does not make a difference. The threads come pretty clean already.

And yes, the light has square threads! Quite smooth (by budgetlight standards) when twisting actually even when bone dry. I think you will be getting 27k cd with 2-cells, if you could get at least 6 metres distance from the light.

Your lux readings with a direct reading of the hotspot usually are quite a bit higher than mine (and Selfbuilt's).

The light easily sustains a 4A draw from 2-cells when they are somewhat run down, read SUSTAINED. So i am sure someone is going to say this is a bad light soon, because it does not work with their batteries for more than 4 minutes. (check out the coming soon Ebay postings with the red Ultrafire BRC 3000mAhs)

So how to make this light even more power? It will pop so many cells out there, because people would want to do 2-cells.

you're going to have to explain more clearly what you mean by your last paragraph. Do you mean that the LEDs will draw 4A for a long period of time the light is in High?

For ref, i just measured and my DRY did 27.6k cd.

Yes, that is correct, when the cell voltage goes down on a typical discharge curve, the current goes up. It spends quite a lot of time at +/- 4 amps. It already starts off at low 3 amps when the cell is fully charged, and i have good cells which do not sag much. (namely the Sanyos 2600 and actually those free Trustfire Flames 2400 unprotected from Dinodirect give a lot of current as well)

This won't be new to Sky Ray 3800 owners. That one starts off at about 2.55A with good cells. With bad cells they already do like nearly 4A. LOL! Goner... The TR-3T6 does about 2.05A, it's much gentler.

I have just measure.

All 5*18650 are Soshine 2800mA
Two multimeters same brand and same thick wire
Measure V no load

Tailcap draw

Soshine Vbat1 Vbat2 MM1 MM2
2*18650 3.97V 3.97V 4.21A 3.95A


2*18650 4.05V 4.05V 3.92A 3.73A


Soshine Vbat1 Vbat2 Vbat3 MM1 MM2
3*18650 3.96V 3.96V 3.95V 2.35A 2.22A

Current sag quickly, may be when 18650 draw at 4A, V is about 3.5 -3.7V

Nice, did not want to imply that you did it wrong, just wanted to make sure that you checked that. Thanks, this means that the driver has a small difference in performance due to input voltage.

Ok, this is fine, you are right about the amp readings, but i always like to check it, in order to see what do i give and what do i get! :) So far, giving 3,3amp @ 2 cells and taking 2200+ OTF is great!

Square threads???!!Omg this is a major quality update on their flashlight! Personally, i take lux readings after 30sec at about 4meters and i try to catch the highest lux reading of the flashlight at its hotspot.

This definitely a mistake, they should warn to use only 3x18650 or 2x 26650 or 3x26650. Personally i will be using it with 3 x26650 kingkong, but i am thinking of a mod that will suit my needs. I will remove the driver, and see if there is space, i might add two circuits, one for 2s2p setup and one (possibly kennan 1,5-1,8amp modded setup) for the central led. My dream is, to add a second sideclick switch, but i don't know how enough space there is.

(I saw that you have a M3X, i think that its UCL might fit to the trustfire, i will check this!)

edit: You said that you wanted to remove the reflectors, possibly, like in the other multiled trustfire setups, the reflectors are removed only if you remove the circuit, and remove the screw inside it.

Are you guys saying that this torch shouldn't be used in a 2x18650 setup? Or just don't use crap cells in a 2x18650 setup?

Just don't use crap cells. But personally, i wouldn't use even good 2x18650, because the stress to the batteries is quite high, they might end up loose their performance much earlier.

Yes, if this is not a drop-in, then it's as per standard. The DRYs (OEMed Brinytes actually) are using this as well. I have a SR3800 that is totally unassembled coz i blew one of the 16mm stars as it is DRY 3-mode Turbo drivered (that one has strobe) and i blew the LEDs while in strobe with the cells close to 4.20V.

Currently waiting for 4 x U2 16mms (got them cheap from LED-DNA for slightly over 8 bucks shipped!), 3 for the SR3800 and 1 for the Crelant 7G5. Sealed If they are good then i might transfer to the DRY as I have the UCL lens there. But shucks i got 1 extra from Dinodirect as i purchased one of their 14mm T6 but oh well that was 8 bucks only.

Wow....that's high, even for a cell that is like 3.9V open circuit. Well into 4A range. My TF Flames (Dinodirect's) are in the 3.7A range at same voltage now.

Feel free to post your beamshots here Pok.

ive always scratched the surface of the cell with an awl or something sharp when adding solder. Help the flux/solder to grip better. maybe an engraver will work better. pretty much made it permanent.

Thanks. IMRs are good for that though, eh? Planning on using AW and/or Senybors. Comments?

Well I guess if you have $$$ to use AW, just buy the Trustfire 26650 "5000mAh" protected and be done with it. $22 shipped for a pair and most probably +/- 4000mAh if you test it. The King Kongs are great at 4.3-4.5Ah measured but unprotected. I could even slot 1 pc of the King Kong 26650 into Xtar S1 triple XM-L (over 6A draw) and operate it at full output for quite a while before it sags on the lux meter and only a little bit.

One thing is the cells, you can actually use Trustfire Flames 2400s, they are so darn cheap...quite a few guys here got 1 pair TF Flames protected 2400 and a complimentary pair unprotected for $6.70 shipped. Sealed

Another thing is the driver of the TR-J12. Can it sustain the current ramped up reliably? Heat always wears components down esp if they are not specced correctly. That was what happened to the SR3800, burned chips/MOSFETs which suddenly creates a dead short. Luckily i was doing protected XTARs 2600 then....when the light suddenly went out.

However, the Trustfire TR-3T6 seems to be very reliable, as it ramps up when the cells discharges but after a certain point it does not boost and just cut the light down to a much lower level and let it slide down. Someone needs to test this on the TR-J12, how it behaves when low in voltage.

its not that I am going to buy the AW's especially for this. Just that I have a pair of them already.

Well i'd say don't mess up the expensive AWs with this. The Trustfire Flames 2400 protected work fine (remember to do voltage tests, they will tell you if both are matched), just buy 8 of them from dinodirect and use that $5 off from $30 purchase coupon. :)

And Senybor 2800s? I probably cant use the AW as they are 2900s and have no positive nipple.

Damn glad to see the J12 get the 2100 treatment. Fantastic work and now you can trust me when I give you lux readings. LOL I honestly though the J12 might edge out the DRY, but that's OK. Its a testament to how well put-together the DRY is.

I get the almost the same currents with the KKs as you are with 18650s. 3A still isn't that much of a challenge for good 18650s. Keep in mind that since it is wired in parallel, the fewer the cells, the closer the battery voltage is to the Vf of the LEDs and that results in the driver working more efficiently. That explains the better performance on 2 cells and a good reason to have four cells (2 for backup) and throw out the extender. :) All of my lux testing has been done with 3 cells, so I think I may try 2 x A123 cells. :)

Thanks for measuring the PWM too. I knew it was low. I'm generally not bothered by it, but I think I've found my threshold.

Yeah man, for lights of this nature, I think there is no need for long distances to measure. 8 metres is plenty.

Update for benckie

I even got a customer service email to ask if the order is correct and everything is working in order. Great!

Hi 2100,

Is the Tr-J12 a flooder or thrower??