Are you guys saying that this torch shouldn't be used in a 2x18650 setup? Or just don't use crap cells in a 2x18650 setup?
Just don't use crap cells. But personally, i wouldn't use even good 2x18650, because the stress to the batteries is quite high, they might end up loose their performance much earlier.
Yes, if this is not a drop-in, then it's as per standard. The DRYs (OEMed Brinytes actually) are using this as well. I have a SR3800 that is totally unassembled coz i blew one of the 16mm stars as it is DRY 3-mode Turbo drivered (that one has strobe) and i blew the LEDs while in strobe with the cells close to 4.20V.
Currently waiting for 4 x U2 16mms (got them cheap from LED-DNA for slightly over 8 bucks shipped!), 3 for the SR3800 and 1 for the Crelant 7G5. 
If they are good then i might transfer to the DRY as I have the UCL lens there. But shucks i got 1 extra from Dinodirect as i purchased one of their 14mm T6 but oh well that was 8 bucks only.
Wow....that's high, even for a cell that is like 3.9V open circuit. Well into 4A range. My TF Flames (Dinodirect's) are in the 3.7A range at same voltage now.
Feel free to post your beamshots here Pok.
ive always scratched the surface of the cell with an awl or something sharp when adding solder. Help the flux/solder to grip better. maybe an engraver will work better. pretty much made it permanent.
Thanks. IMRs are good for that though, eh? Planning on using AW and/or Senybors. Comments?
Well I guess if you have $$$ to use AW, just buy the Trustfire 26650 "5000mAh" protected and be done with it. $22 shipped for a pair and most probably +/- 4000mAh if you test it. The King Kongs are great at 4.3-4.5Ah measured but unprotected. I could even slot 1 pc of the King Kong 26650 into Xtar S1 triple XM-L (over 6A draw) and operate it at full output for quite a while before it sags on the lux meter and only a little bit.
One thing is the cells, you can actually use Trustfire Flames 2400s, they are so darn cheap...quite a few guys here got 1 pair TF Flames protected 2400 and a complimentary pair unprotected for $6.70 shipped.
Another thing is the driver of the TR-J12. Can it sustain the current ramped up reliably? Heat always wears components down esp if they are not specced correctly. That was what happened to the SR3800, burned chips/MOSFETs which suddenly creates a dead short. Luckily i was doing protected XTARs 2600 then....when the light suddenly went out.
However, the Trustfire TR-3T6 seems to be very reliable, as it ramps up when the cells discharges but after a certain point it does not boost and just cut the light down to a much lower level and let it slide down. Someone needs to test this on the TR-J12, how it behaves when low in voltage.
its not that I am going to buy the AW's especially for this. Just that I have a pair of them already.
Well i'd say don't mess up the expensive AWs with this. The Trustfire Flames 2400 protected work fine (remember to do voltage tests, they will tell you if both are matched), just buy 8 of them from dinodirect and use that $5 off from $30 purchase coupon. :)
And Senybor 2800s? I probably cant use the AW as they are 2900s and have no positive nipple.
Damn glad to see the J12 get the 2100 treatment. Fantastic work and now you can trust me when I give you lux readings. LOL I honestly though the J12 might edge out the DRY, but that's OK. Its a testament to how well put-together the DRY is.
I get the almost the same currents with the KKs as you are with 18650s. 3A still isn't that much of a challenge for good 18650s. Keep in mind that since it is wired in parallel, the fewer the cells, the closer the battery voltage is to the Vf of the LEDs and that results in the driver working more efficiently. That explains the better performance on 2 cells and a good reason to have four cells (2 for backup) and throw out the extender. :) All of my lux testing has been done with 3 cells, so I think I may try 2 x A123 cells. :)
Thanks for measuring the PWM too. I knew it was low. I'm generally not bothered by it, but I think I've found my threshold.
Yeah man, for lights of this nature, I think there is no need for long distances to measure. 8 metres is plenty.
Update for benckie
I even got a customer service email to ask if the order is correct and everything is working in order. Great!
Hi 2100,
Is the Tr-J12 a flooder or thrower??
Hi Hugob,
The TR-J12 has a somewhat floody beam with its pretty big hotspot, but in that bit hotspot there is a lot of light hence it also throws pretty ok. For example, if you compare this to the Fenix TK35, this one would have a slightly brighter hotspot of about 20% more intensity.
Thanks 2100, cannot wait I also order one from Manafont, hope so see it around 20 - 25 January...
I also got mine from the same seller. Left a positive feedback on that page to. Mine doesn't have a plastic cover or a brass piece on the driver, though. Didn't matter for me so its as good as 2100s. I measured something like 2.2A with 3x18650 at 4.1V. Not bad I guess. Definitely brighter than my 3xXML I got recently. Tailstands perfectly. It will be a great ceiling bounce worklight for my dark, confined parking space.
I think you need some good batteries for this light.
If I am understanding this correctly, if 4A is going to the LED's, then each LED is only seeing 800mA for about 300 lumen each. All together the torch is putting out about 1500 lumen and that seems to match the numbers you are coming up with in your tests. This light is remarkably underdriven.
How much room is in the pill for a different driver? If you could put a 10A SST90 driver in it running the LEDs in parallel you could easily have it pumping out over 3000 lumen OTF. Of course I would only run such a beast on 3*26650 cells.
I guess it is more like 4.1 cell voltage x 3 cells x 2.2 amperes x .90 efficiency / 5 LEDs / 3.4 Vf = 1.42 A per led in my measurement. Makes over 500 lumens per emitter easily.