Thanking for the links.. it's just.. i cant post my questions there, i am banned on cpf
If i measure an Eneloop cell, i would get a reading like
"1.1873 V ±(0.1%+2)",
or "4.2108 V ±(0.1%+2)" for a LiIon cell.
Tailcap current would be
"193.78 mA ±(0.5%+10)" on Low mode, and
"0.7463 A ±(1.2%+50)" on High mode.
Since i dont know this kind of notation (and i didnt get the cpf post), is anyone able to write down the calculation (equations) of the four ranges for the 4 cases?
Or maybe i should just give up, cancel the DD order, and go watch 2 movies in the theatre with the saved money.
or maybe watch only 1 movie but ask a Spanish girl to go with me to the cinema :D (Of course i'd have my Romisen, Quark or AAA lights with me hehe).
He would have found out how CPF works sooner or later by himself and I used enough smilies to show that I was half joking.... a new account is easily made though. Welcome to the club of ass baiters kreisler... I think we need some sort of medal for that.
well, some of the mods (and probably some dealers too) got pi$$ed by my signature (which i adopted for BLF, see my sig) and when i repeatedly mentioned in my posts "i've ordered it too. but from DX. see my sig. .." they saw RED. later i found out that they call it "shilling" :D and that it was one of the main reasons for the ban
how to get the worst case upper variation =Voltage*(100% + 0.1%) + 2 counters up on the last displayed digit
1.1873 * (1.001) + 0.0002= 1.1886873
how to get the worst case lower variation =Voltage*(100% - 0.1%) - 2 counters down on the last displayed digit
1.1873 * (0.999) - 0.0002= 1.1859127
On my cheapo Voltcraft I "loose" one digit when switching from the -2V range (eg 1.187 V) to the -20V range(eg. 1.19V). From my experience I can say that the variation is "normally" not even close to that maximum tolerance.
But if we take it any further than that... please in one separate DMM thread. I wouldn't pay that kind of money to only measure Voltages (safety) ... for current measurements (recreational bragging rights) it is probably a good investment.
@Lensman: Tailcap reading is nothing you "need" to do , but you "want" to do. Whereas Voltage reading of freshly charged cells is a pure safety measure because you don't trust your $5 charger not to overcharge your LiIons batteries (14500 and 18650)... if you only use NiMH (Eneloops) and high quality chargers you don't "need" a DMM at all. The joy of getting tailcap current readings is in the satisfaction you get, when an XM-L is driven at full 3A or an XP-G is driven at full 1.5A, so that the driver is pushing the maximum allowed current to the emitter, because almost all manufacturer are too cowardly to drive them at full power.
If you find any irony in this post .... you can keep it.
This is finally something which everybody can understand. An example of an equation or calculation. Thanks so much!! (…) So if my DMM displays 1.1873 V, it means that the true voltage lies somewhere in the middle between
1.1859 < 1.1873 < 1.1887
...and dropping another digit it would be correct to say 1.185 < X < 1.189
Hey, i mean, that's pretty accurate!! :D
(...)
Fluke 15B .. on Ebay 65€. Fantastic price you got, congrats!!
It's a Wiki and I'm sure brted would love if more people would participate. Make an account and write an article about measuring Voltages/Current and let someone read it. That's how Wikis work... the first draft hasn't to be perfect. If you ask HKJ nicely I'm sure that you are allowed to use some of his stuff to make it more beginner friendly. You are in the perfect position as you still see the subject as a beginner... the pros are already too deep on the sophisticated side and probably use a too complex vocabulary for beginners.
I suspect the "library" suggestion won't meet with great enthusiasm; well, it was just an idea. It may be too difficult to implement. But here's a good example of what I meant https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/5959 This is a new "how to do it" thread by old4570; how useful to be able to click >Library>Drivers>Driver Swap.. Obviously with the authors permission. Most of the reviews are 'front paged and stickied', I guess I was thinking of 'Libraried (probably 'filed' would be better) and stickied'. Sure, old's tutorial could probably be found easy enough by typing "driver swap" into the search, but so much valuable info is buried. How cool to have it all set out in one place..
another reason for threads to get buried is the lack of feedback, enthusiasm, gratitude, or posting activity. unregistered surfers might find the thread (article), read it, profit from it, and then good-bye. the threads gets buried even deeper.
there are so many great threads with lots of time, energy, expertise and efforts invested in, e.g. those many by HKJ, and only few would care to post a thanks to show gratitude or simply to keep it afloat.
since i am on BLF, i've been noticing that the only threads which are kept afloat are all kinds of DD threads haha (although it is rated [AVOID!]).
i dont know if they deserve it more than manafont, kaidomain or DX, but DD certainly gets the most exposure and publicity on BLF.
we've seen the company videos. Some *** guys even speak Spanish!!!
Dinodirect is the best!! ( and please dont ban me for shilling. hehe. )
