MTN Electronics: LEDs - Batteries - Lights - Chargers - Hosts - Drivers - Components - 1-Stop-US Source

another question…for this new quad MCPCB…

219C D320 or 319AT? can’t decide which one to go with. Which one would you recommend?

You were a biologist and you did what?

Not an unusual question for people to ask, in my experience.

Hey Richard, will you be getting any more XHP70 P2-1C and XHP35HI E4 (1A’s) emitters in any time soon or in the future? Have you seen or know about any different tinted XHP70 P2 binned emitters too?

The lumens output is similar between the two---slightly higher on the 319AT, but it is also floodier. So, if you want a little bit tighter beam, I'd go with the 219C, but if you want more flood go with the 319AT. Tint is pretty much identical.

The lawyer one is even better. You're a lawyer, and you do what???

I'm not sure. The P2 was a rare thing to see in XHP70...I only got them twice: once from Cutter and once as a sample batch. They didn't have an official order code, so it was just by luck that you would get them when you ordered 1A. I am not planning on getting any more of them. It looks like XHP70.2 has a P2 order bin when they come in, but who knows what the tint will be like on those (hopefully better than XHP50.2).

XHP35...I am probably going to sell what I've got and be very selective about what I order. They just don't sell---not enough flashlights and drivers that can easily use them.

New H2-C drivers might make XHP35 and XHP35 HI more popular. I did some testing on H1-A and H2-C, they show real potential.

If you decide to reboot your own boost driver project btw, I would happily pay upwards of $20 for a boost driver with similar specs, a customizeable UI, and known component limits.

I’m truly bumming out and the next to be screwed up will be the XHP35!

I have (5) XHP70 P2-1C’s left in my stash, better lock them up in the Gun safe! :smiley:

Hopefully you keep getting the XHP35 HD and HI E4’s in for awhile, I’ll be stocking up on them too!

I de-domed a couple XHP35 HD E2-1A’s and the tint is really nice NW (5500-5000k) it looks like to me, would like to get the 1A’s in a E4 bin!

Thanks Richard for all you do!!

Ok I am puzzled. Is 2X18650 (HG2) too much for a single 50.2 3000k 80cri? This is the second one

How much current do you have going through it? I had one at about 9 amps and it did okay, but of course pumps out a lot of heat. This was on 2 Liitokalas.

Did you see it turn towards a bluish tint as it heated up?

Uh, yeah, 8.4v was already too much for the old XHP50, the 50.2 has even lower Vf so wiring it directly to 2s would instantly blow it.
You need to use a 7135 or buck constant current driver.

Well I guess MTN-MAX it is. Or how about a 70.2?

I have one running on 2x18350 but I guess those are quite a bit lower current capable.

No, just instantly dropped intensity and now I’m left with one of the 4 dies. When it died it went to two dies and now one.

Driver IMO

Snap. Two 14250’s

I’m guessing 2 protected cells might work also if their max current is low enough?

What! Even those small cells produced enough current to blow it? I would not have assumed this.

Lipo cells are rated at a max current but they can provide much more than that in short bursts, to the point where they can melt down.
Unless it is a protected cell, in which case it would just shut off. to prevent damage.
You need a driver to limit the current.

Obviously I’m not talking about lipo cells. Lithium only.

Do all over current protection circuits just shut off? I have some protected KeepPower 5200 cells (rated at 10 amps) used on a FET driver and they pulled 9.7 amps. Unprotected cells pulled 12 amps. Now I assumed the protection circuitry was limiting output. Are you thinking that 9.7 amps was the most the batteries could provide and that if it were capable of over 10 amps the circuitry would kick in and shut off power completely?

They are the same thing…
Lithium, li-ion, lipo, they’re all basically the same technology with different names for the shape of the battery.
You know because they are all 3.7v cells with 4.2v max, with a few exceptions of course.

idk if the protection in your protected cells limited your current output, or if the circuitry in them just added more resistance, but I would still use a constant current driver for any LED.