Lumens Factory Seraph SP-6 is beautifully designed low cost P60 host.
Currently US$18.50 without drop-in, and US$35 with XP-G2 drop in.
Yep, that’s been my EDC for a coupla years already. A “real” UF WF-502B, 5000K XP-L, SMO, 1-mode 1750mA driver. Shockingly bright to n00bz, yet great runtime. Great beam, not ringy, not that much of a “fried egg” beam pattern, just a great everyday light.
Got a whole (small) box of just D26 modules, empties and complete, and can mix’n’match reflectors if need be (eg, exchange SMO for MOP if I’m in the mood).
Love the shape, love the grip. Semi-rounded, not all points and peaks and edges and creminations all over the place like some medieval torture-device. The clip with that rounded-in shape provides a great grip for my middle+ring fingers when holding it “icepick” style. It’s actually comfortable to hold.
Also fits perfectly in a medium-size Jetbeam holster (now discontinued by FT), but that’s held up fine from constant use.
What I paid back then? 17bux for a 3-pack. Bought 2 packs. 
Talk about nostalgia, those came with either legit XM-Ls or at least great LB “XM-L” clones. Not cheap mini LB house-specials more akin to an old XP-E or so.
(Then again, so did my early C8 clones, vs the cheap crap pure garbage new clones about a year later.)
I.m.o. the 502B is the nicest looking cheap P60 host.
The lack of thermal path is a bummer though…
Do all P60 hosts have this problem?
Here’s mine:
I think you can see the head is considerably shorter than stock.
So the brass pill kind of fits in the chamfered battery tube and the reflector kind of fits in the head section.
Together that’s the thermal path from drop in to the outside.
The bezel is made wider on the McGyver lathe to slip over the knurled bit of the head, where the O ring is now located.
The main head part is also tortured on the McGyver lathe.
Screwing the bezel on tightly presses the lot together, it seems to work fine like this.
Also nice is the Kaidomain DTP board with slightly protruding thermal slug.
It makes a nice thermal path to the reflector (when the masking paint is scraped off)
I have several Solarforce and UltraFire P60’s in my collection My favorite is the Solarforce L2. I think I paid around $15 for it 4 years ago. Well worth the price.
Mine warms up quite well when left on unattended, like when I accidentally bumped the bottom of the holster on a seat-arm and turned it on. Almost too hot to handle…
If you want to increase heat transfer if it’s a bit lacking, wrap the pill in a little Al foil, or better, Cu foil. Rarely need more than 1 turn, sometimes less. Mine fits in quite snugly, so no foil needed.
I wrap my drop-in’s with copper foil (not tape). I use enough to make a tight fit. It makes a huge improvement in heat transfer.
I think you saw how i solved it.
Didn’t want to mess with foil and / or sheet (there’s quite a gap to be filled there) and i wanted to lose the spring too.
You see, the head seems to be designed for how i did it, only the bezel doesn’t screw on far enough to push pill and reflector on to the head and tube.
So i messed with the McGyver lathe… 
I reduced some overall length too, which is nice.
The only unfortunate thing is the few threads on the tailcap.
Apparently they did that for the screws that hold the clip…
By the way VoB i like your video. :+1:
But i think you’d be better off buying a $5 502B host from Fasttech and a $2 empty OP drop in,
put a 6x 7135 105C driver in it and an LED of choice and you’ve got a very nice light for around $12.
EDIT:
Uhm… i forgot the thermal problems…
But hey, that’s the fun of modding, isn’t it? 
Solarforce L2m - http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_230449.html
$10.99 with coupon
I'm going to buy.
Or 502B better?
Exactly. Where others see problems we see opportunity… In this case the opportunity to add some copper :+1:
I’m so crushed right now…. Like how can we still be friends man. LOL!
Can you believe we’ve come to the place where “real” and “Ultrafire” are being used in the same sentence… :student:
Exactly. Where others see problems we see opportunity… In this case the opportunity to add some copper :+1:
L2T, L2m are my favorite, got them on a deal a while back from a HK ebay seller (some airsoft shop?).
Also have a new/unused SS L2T Limited here, but that was a pricey one.
I have both. Get the Solarforce L2M. I use mine with the short tube along with an18350, and a XP-L V6 drop-in. Fantastic light.
Yeah, i’ve got a heap of opportunities in a drawer here…
….or lose the spring and some aluminum…. :disguised_face:
I was going to edit my reply to add how that irony’s not lost on me, but was too lazy.
Gotta say, I love the (UF) DV-S9 and F13. No idea if they UTorched someone else’s lights for those two.
Whoa… 10.99? What coupon? Looked, see the shorty+extension tubes, want some!!
What code? Gimmegimmegimme…
Hey, found it, from literally a month ago (04-21), and it’s still good!
Got myself a few…
You know where to look...
Okay Matt I got one for ya, no better place to make this post.
Several years ago I picked up an Eveready circa 1937 brass and copper flashlight. I have not yet been able to find the exact model # for the c sized cell version.
I picked it up at a local flee market for oddly enough, 10 bucks. Now you are probably wondering why I am writing this in a P60 thread. Well, in an ahhh-haaa moment I had one evening while looking at the light on my shelf it came to me that I should upgrade the vintage piece. Cutting a long story short, a p60 host fit perfectly after removing the stock reflector and catch piece (both of which unscrew out).
Two small issues plague the upgrade. One I resolved and the second is further complicated by the first resolve. Here is the low down; If you notice in the pictures below i show some rubber washers and the inside of the front of the light. With a small piece of copper and solder I extended the original switch about 1/4 of an inch so that it contacts the reflector to complete the circuit. Unfortunately for the setup to work I had to isolate the drop in with the washers. Not good for thermal management but the XRE emitter didnt seem to mind. I also placed and XHP50 P60 drop-in in it which really made it come to life but will quickly overheat if left on for too long.
The batteries, a single 18650 with rubber grommets or an 18650 + 18350 with grommets worked great to power the light (XRE n XHP50 respectively) with the addition of a tail cap spring borrowed from a mag light.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B6fTIDjnPfzCa3hjUld2bVNQcG8?usp=sharing
Also tmart . com sells the Ultrafire C1 host for 9.99. (or used to anyway) Personally i like the C1 alot. There are several variants out there and if you buy one of the 9.99 hosts maybe you will luck out and get the longer front bezel and linear driver capable of powering an XHP50. just swap in two 18350’s and solder in an MCPCB XHP50.
The setup exists. Ive done it and it works well.