KD (kaidomain): Deals and new products thread

KDLIGHT Triple 3TP-20i DTP Copper MCPCB for Cree XP Series / Nichia 219 Series / 3535 LEDs - Individual ( 2 pcs )

Wow! Really nice move, this opens the door to the possibility of using a boost driver with emitters in series (perfect for home lighting high CRI triples, by the way).

There's already a wide selection of boost drivers, some of them marketed for 2S emitters while others for 4S (like XHP35s).

BanL, in behalf of this community, may you at least do some quick maximum output voltage tests for the 2S drivers? This can be as easy as measuring the driver output voltage without load. In order to drive 3S, the output voltage needs to reach at least 10+V, I believe. On the other hand, drivers geared for XHP35s should workā€¦

Honestly speaking: it may be a good idea to build an in series triple and test out each driver with it (the Vout polling info would be quite handy too).

Cheers my dears

This triple also would do nice for RGB flashlights

Hi, Kaidomain I need your help! I know this is the dumb question but I am confuse? I bought a (H2-C 22mm 1.5A 1 or 2-cell 5-Mode Boost Driver Circuit Board for Cree XHP35 / XHP50 12V) diver and I using 1 cell on XHP35, can I use 2 cell on XHP35? Or it has to be XHP50 for 2 cell.

The boost driver works with any 12V LED with one or two cells
In 2S configuration its efficiency is better

OK I got it thank you Lexel!

http://kaidomain.com/p/S026879.JKK36-Cree-XHP70-Neutral-White-5000K-3800-Lumens-6-Mode-LED-Flashlight-with-USB-Portable-Power-Bank

Omg :heart_eyes:
What a nice flashlight.
We have someone from KD here on the board - we need pictures of the pill!
Edit: Also we need a XHP70.2 in it :slight_smile:

I have several JKK lights very nicely built!

Alright, alright.
Ordered before it getā€™s sold out like the 18650 XHP50.2 one.
Since I like 26650s more, I just bought the bigger one as well a few days ago. http://kaidomain.com/p/S026765.KDIY-K5-Cree-XHP50_2-Neutral-White-5000K-2650-Lumens-5-Mode-LED-Flashlight-Black-(~~1x26650~~)
First powerful flashlights since a year or so.

I cant really find any reviews on the JKK lights, does anyone here have any experience with them?

Thanks.

I have 1 x XML2 version, It use pill and 7135 x 6.

JKK13: Jinjeng JKK13 USB flashlight arrived
JKK35: JIN HENG JKK35 (3x XM-L2, 3x 18650, PowerBank, Recargable) - ForoLinternas - Foro sobre linternas y tecnologĆ­a LED in spanish and no inside-photos

I think the Micro-USB is for charging the cells and not an output like in de KD picture

These lights are nice, the charger head piece on the JKK 26 can be unscrewed if you donā€™t need it and it becomes just like a regular flashlight.

Iā€™d love to be able to buy the charging boards that JKK uses. I could have sworn Iā€™ve seen it for sale before, but I havenā€™t been able to find them again for years.

Hello,
I think i got the wrong parts delivered. They arrived some time ago but i did not had the time to use them and i did not check them when they arrived. I ordered SKU:S006044 (21mm Parallel Star for CREE MC-E (5PCS)) and i got 5 MCPCB that are Serial if i am not wrong

Cool boards! But serial indeed :cry:

Nice boards indeed! And the LED would fit perfectly if it were a single color MC-E. But i have 8 RGBW MC-Es left and i have (after checking) not 5 but 10 Serial boards. I ordered 2x 5 Parallel. Hope they have enough Parallel boards left. To mod the boards so that i can make it work would be possible but to do it 8 times is a pain in the ass! And i do not know if i could still use these optics (http://www.mouser.de/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=CA10945_RGBX-MC-Ovirtualkey56980000virtualkey928-CA10945RMCO) if i mod the boards (do not know if i have enough space for the wires to go directly to the pins of the LED).

On a side note, Jensen567 recently did some research on the H1-A driver. Here's my pertaining feedback:

Based on a TPS61088 integrated boost converter plus PIC 12F683 microcontroller, in stock configuration output voltage is capped to ā‰ˆ7.3+V via a resistor divider located next to the stock current sense resistor (R025, 25mĪ©). Jensen567 found that, if we change the resistor just to the left of the inductor, northeast from the current sensing one, we can increase the maximum output voltage of the driver. Please note that, from the chip's datasheet, maximum Vout won't go above 12.6V (unsuitable for 4S emitters), and also the fact that the maximum input current for the TPS61088 is 10A, so after efficiency losses bear in mind you shouldn't gamble much above 25W of total output power, if at all. This, however, means we can use this driver to power in series triples. Please, increase the current sense resistor value to reduce the output current if wishing to go triple in series setup. Sense voltage is 75mV: with an R030 (30mĪ©), output current is 2.5A; with an R050 + R100 stacked (33.3Ķ” mĪ©), output is at 2.25A.

Oh! The resistor to replace is surrounded by a green circle in the following picture:

Jensen567 measured 10.72V open circuit voltage for a 75KĪ© resistor in place of the 47KĪ© stock one. This is adequate for 3S arrangement. I bet an 82KĪ© would also work nicely, allowing slightly more Vout if needed, but this is untested.

Enjoy!

Cheers ^:)

ā€¦

Thanks for pursuing this, finding drivers for triple serial layouts is at best a confusing problem (for me)

Having never built a triple series lightā€¦ why would one go that route?

mattlward, versus a FET hack reference, thIs in series boost driver provides:

  • Less maximum peak output, we already know that. Our main limitation here is the maximum allowable input current to the driver (10A theoretical) and its efficiency, which rule the amount of power burned in the driver. However, up to ā‰ˆ25W of output is nice enough for a lot of 1S setups, really enough power to make a compact torch hot fast.
  • Fully regulated modes, no pulse-width-modulation dung, constant output within battery voltage/SoC window.
  • Full battery utilization (down to 3V) with shutdown. In my opinion, we should make aware the developers of these drivers they should use slightly lower cutoff values for high current input drivers, as any little stray resistance can become a serious input burden.

A tailcap FET switch may be advisable.