Well to be honest i don’t know why am i getting so high measurements. I don’t know if there is anything wrong, but the readings on it are really really high. 2386 OTF means 477 per emitter, which is really high for about 1,5amp@emitter, Armytek predator gives 1,5amp to the emitter,with UCL and with a good xm-l U2 i got ~473 lumen OTF.
Almost all of the other measurements i have posted, agree with what others have posted too, except very few. What if i had a UCL? i would be over 2500 OTF??? THis is sick!!!
(The UCL from M3x does not fit, needs 1mm less.)
Something more, my sample came from Kaidomain.
Well maybe we can do a group buy of UCL lenses (kinda like what mitro wanted to do) :D
And i hope all production models are the same cause im getting mine from MF.
Good idea!!!! I will talk to flashlightlens! The same lens would fit the Fandyfire STL V2 thrower, the M3X copy. Should i open an interest thread?
Depending on price, I would be interested! and Im sure 2100 will be to
Sent them an email regarding quantity they need and price they offer.
IMO TR-J12 lens looks like coated glass lens (compared with my flashlights e.g.M2XC4 ), It’s clearly than stock lens from many flashlights
From MF : Lens: Vacuum Plated Coated Glass Lens <<< ???
Good point: How can we tell UCL from other lenses? Any ideas?
The glass is not UCL. Just confirmed this. Did some tests, did not measure output directly, just measured the difference in performance between no lens, stock lens, and a 73mm ucl. Then added the difference to the first 2386 lumen reading. It is being done in this way, because the bezel has some loss too.
So, here, with the bezel hypothetically on:
Stock glass: 2386 lumen
UCL lens: 2471 lumen
no lens: 2507 lumen
Here, with the bezel off:
Stock glass: 2444 lumen
no glass: 2570 lumen
UCL glass: 2532 lumen
Glad you did the test! But is it worth getting UCL for ca. 90 lumens extra?
Sorry I mean Coated glass lens not UCL lens :bigsmile:
I just got mine and loaded it with 4Sevens 4000mah 26650s. I am very impressed.
I am also interested in a UCL lens.
It depends on the price and there is another matter: The stock glass,because it is not that transparent, it might create a like diffuser phenomenon. THe stock glass may have higher loss in lux readings than the loss in total lumen, in comparison to a UCL. I will try later to measure the difference in Lux. If the difference is higher than in lumen, then i would definitely suggest you to buy one. Except if the total price is really high, then in that case it might not be worth!
I am interested in having a spare lens. If it is UCL, then all the better.
Wow... that a lot of lumens. :) I have a hard time convincing myself that 1400+ lumens can be a "medium". LOL
I agree on the tail switch. A side switch would have moved this light up a notch on the must-have list. Unfortunately that PWM knocks it way down the list. What do we have for driver options? As good as this light is, I can't tolerate the PWM. I would love to use med and low, but it makes my head spin.
Thanks for the report ergo. :)
This is one reason why coated AR glass is commonly used in multi-element lenses in the photo/video realm over un-coated UCL.
eagerly waiting your report, ergotelis :)
oh and as a side note: Any one wanna buy my Trustfire 3T6? :D
If this TR-J12 light is remarkably underdriven to 1500 lumens, then all my other lights are also remarkably underdriven. 
(stuff like T40CS/M3X/V60C/TK70)
Actually, the current doesn't matter, note that i rarely put any amperes or what nowadays. What we look at is not only the lumens, but the OTF lumens. That is number 1. Number 2 is the candelas. Number 3 which folks might be interested in is heatsinking ability. That would be 48 deg C in 12 mins (28 deg C ambient), sag of 6.1%. This is very good. However this is beaten by the XTAR S1 (triple XM-L) which has literally the same output. It takes 24 mins to hit 49 deg C.
The tailcap amps only come in when i want to calculate the runtime for a certain set of battery (such a big range for this light, from 2200-4500mAh), and even then it is a guesstimate because this is fully regulated so it would vary according to cell discharge.
Oh...forgot that i should put a figure on this light. This is about 2200 lumens OTF.
You are technically correct that this light is underdriven, because the potential is that this light can hit 4000 lumens OTF. Someone needs to do up a 5X DRY. But the thing is this is no XTAR S1, at 4000 lumens OTF this 62mm HD light would run pretty hot at time 1 minute point. Same as the DRY. Folks would say that that's what the medium is for....yep they are correct, but this is no SWM or Fenix, 124Hz PWM is no fun.
Bro, was there any doubt in the first place? LOL! 
(the others can check out my first post again).
Your TK70 seems a little high but that's no problem at all, we all believe in relative figures. As you can see, your TR-J12 is 4.1% brighter than TK70, and my TR-J12 is 3.2%. brighter. To be honest, my TK70 is getting 218 lux bounce (but i rounded it up to 220) and TR-J12 is 225 lux bounce.
I mean, we all should be conservative. 2200 lumens OTF / Out The Front is very belivable and achieavable.
Thanks to ergo as well.
So, what's the next step. 8x XM-L?
PS. The TR-J12's middle is about 1300-1400 lumens OTF thereabouts. Over here it is practically neck-to-neck with the Trustfire TR-3T6 on max.
PPS. 5% cut in the glass is pretty decent, same as most other budgetlights. But for my XTAR S1, that one cut 10%. Hence that is why i purchased 2 x 72.6mm UCLs to change.
?