Trustfire TR-J12 measurements (5 x XM-L)

The glass is not UCL. Just confirmed this. Did some tests, did not measure output directly, just measured the difference in performance between no lens, stock lens, and a 73mm ucl. Then added the difference to the first 2386 lumen reading. It is being done in this way, because the bezel has some loss too.

So, here, with the bezel hypothetically on:

Stock glass: 2386 lumen

UCL lens: 2471 lumen

no lens: 2507 lumen

Here, with the bezel off:

Stock glass: 2444 lumen

no glass: 2570 lumen

UCL glass: 2532 lumen

Glad you did the test! But is it worth getting UCL for ca. 90 lumens extra?

Sorry I mean Coated glass lens not UCL lens :bigsmile:

I just got mine and loaded it with 4Sevens 4000mah 26650s. I am very impressed.

I am also interested in a UCL lens.

It depends on the price and there is another matter: The stock glass,because it is not that transparent, it might create a like diffuser phenomenon. THe stock glass may have higher loss in lux readings than the loss in total lumen, in comparison to a UCL. I will try later to measure the difference in Lux. If the difference is higher than in lumen, then i would definitely suggest you to buy one. Except if the total price is really high, then in that case it might not be worth!

I am interested in having a spare lens. If it is UCL, then all the better.

Wow... that a lot of lumens. :) I have a hard time convincing myself that 1400+ lumens can be a "medium". LOL

I agree on the tail switch. A side switch would have moved this light up a notch on the must-have list. Unfortunately that PWM knocks it way down the list. What do we have for driver options? As good as this light is, I can't tolerate the PWM. I would love to use med and low, but it makes my head spin.

Thanks for the report ergo. :)

This is one reason why coated AR glass is commonly used in multi-element lenses in the photo/video realm over un-coated UCL.

eagerly waiting your report, ergotelis :)

oh and as a side note: Any one wanna buy my Trustfire 3T6? :D

If this TR-J12 light is remarkably underdriven to 1500 lumens, then all my other lights are also remarkably underdriven. (stuff like T40CS/M3X/V60C/TK70)

Actually, the current doesn't matter, note that i rarely put any amperes or what nowadays. What we look at is not only the lumens, but the OTF lumens. That is number 1. Number 2 is the candelas. Number 3 which folks might be interested in is heatsinking ability. That would be 48 deg C in 12 mins (28 deg C ambient), sag of 6.1%. This is very good. However this is beaten by the XTAR S1 (triple XM-L) which has literally the same output. It takes 24 mins to hit 49 deg C.

The tailcap amps only come in when i want to calculate the runtime for a certain set of battery (such a big range for this light, from 2200-4500mAh), and even then it is a guesstimate because this is fully regulated so it would vary according to cell discharge.

Oh...forgot that i should put a figure on this light. This is about 2200 lumens OTF.

You are technically correct that this light is underdriven, because the potential is that this light can hit 4000 lumens OTF. Someone needs to do up a 5X DRY. But the thing is this is no XTAR S1, at 4000 lumens OTF this 62mm HD light would run pretty hot at time 1 minute point. Same as the DRY. Folks would say that that's what the medium is for....yep they are correct, but this is no SWM or Fenix, 124Hz PWM is no fun.

Bro, was there any doubt in the first place? LOL! (the others can check out my first post again).

Your TK70 seems a little high but that's no problem at all, we all believe in relative figures. As you can see, your TR-J12 is 4.1% brighter than TK70, and my TR-J12 is 3.2%. brighter. To be honest, my TK70 is getting 218 lux bounce (but i rounded it up to 220) and TR-J12 is 225 lux bounce.

I mean, we all should be conservative. 2200 lumens OTF / Out The Front is very belivable and achieavable.

Thanks to ergo as well.

So, what's the next step. 8x XM-L?

PS. The TR-J12's middle is about 1300-1400 lumens OTF thereabouts. Over here it is practically neck-to-neck with the Trustfire TR-3T6 on max.

PPS. 5% cut in the glass is pretty decent, same as most other budgetlights. But for my XTAR S1, that one cut 10%. Hence that is why i purchased 2 x 72.6mm UCLs to change.

?

Ok new measurement. This cell regulates by boosting to a certain point and then goes into direct drive, so it shifts into a lower output. After that even in low mode it manages to trip the cell's protection circuit. I got about 4.6V at the tail (2.3V per cell) before the PCB cuts. I have TF Flames unprotected but it's not really needed as i guess it'd just run the cell down to 0V.

So this light easily digs the cells to below 2.5V. Just another of the lights in which it really uses everything in the cell. (most of my lights have low voltage cut offs way below 2.8V per cell). So yet another example in which testing cell discharges to below 3.0V is needed.

So it's the same behaviour as the TR-3T6. Not the Sky Ray's hard cut-off.

Double confirmed - it can run on 1 x 18650 @ 3.9V, there is still light.

I am expecting basically a 6-7 xm-l setup, they won't go more than what they have made in the past in terms of the number of the leds.

The uCL lens i received, is 72,9mm , so take check your dimensions!!!

I will recheck my medium, was a real quickie that, just for instance.

As for the OTF values, i always want to be conservative, this is why i was saying that if i see 2000 OTF i would be happy with such a design. I am seeing more and i am really amazed, i would agree too that 2200 is for sure quite an achievable number, which is excellent for a _ _ _ _ _ _fire flashlight.

Moreover, the most amazing thing comes from build quality, i see square threads, good grip, very good quality material ,better than in past expensive flashlights of them(3*t6, X7)

To add here, that some of my flashlights, like the thrunite catapult, the predator, the ife2, are preowned from some members that have done much more professional lumen-measuring methods, so my readings are based on their data. In fact, i don't want to believe that i am getting such high readings from such flashlights, like Tk70, tk35 and of course the TR-J12. But i can't do otherwise!Wish someone else of you were close to send them to check too!

I see. If that's the case then the DRY could be more of 2600 lumens OTF.

Thanks, on flashlightlens it is listed as 72.7mm by 1.85mm, the XTAR S1 uses 75mm glass. So 72.9mm is good too.

thanks for the info , finally got my refund from aliexpress to order one of these

ERGOTELIS!

Any progress with the beamshot comaprisons?!?!? :D

My opions on this torch. Received on Saturday. Very well build, nice looker, solid ....... BUT

It doesn't impress me that much... I don't own a luxmeter, so what I can see is what I can tell you.

My WF-900L has a beter 'hotspot', running Q5's!!

My 3*T6 has a brighter 'hotspot' than this, and it flood a but beter aswell.......

I also agree that this torch is very much underdriven........

Opps...hugob, that's very strange. You want to do some measurements of the light first (current at the tail)? May I know which 3 x T6 do you have?

I'd disagree on the underdriven part. If this is so-called properly driven, this would be like the DRY @ 5A. The DRY is not boosted in the same way as the J12, so the batteries would naturally sag and the current slips as it discharges hence that's natural protection. The 3 x 18650 config in this would literally tear apart even NCR18650A simply because near the end part of the discharge curve it'd be boosted close to 10A even with 3-cells. Currently on TF Flames 2 cells, it is already nearing like 6 amps. That is IF the driver survives.

You will not be able to use this for more than 30 seconds in a tropical country unless you want to risk the driver electronics. You could use medium, but then it'd be let down by the PWM. It could survive if it is a 900g light like the XTAR S1.

The head portion of this is somewhat the mass of the DRY 3 x XM-L. It has much more fins, but probably helps a little bit only.