Led is original NW XHP 35. I modified the driver using an R100 and now I get 144 KCd (749m) reading 3,85A at the tail.
I really love this flashlight for its balance between throwing, size and runtime.
This is very intriguing to me 
So if I want to take anodization off certain part of the flashlight I just use silicone grease (or please recommend proper adhesive) and then I apply it to every part except the one I want to remove (like anodized part with Chinglish logo on flashlight) and then I throw it to sodium hydroxide bath?
Lfatman pretty please… Does in your experience such procedure removes logo from aluminum, and how long it got to be immersed and what would be proper mix?
I never seen such mod… Very interesting indeed :+1:
Logo will not vanish, different techniques, I have started a thread on it, they are make with laser engraving and or a special UV paint that gets hard. Complete removal not possible.
This is the first time I use this masking method. Maybe other greasy substances, such as petroleum jelly or lithium grease could be used.
I do not have a fixed proportion in the dilution. I mix a small handful of sodium hydroxide in a liter of water at room temperature and submerge the piece to be treated controlling the time with direct vision. Once I like the result I submerge it in a bucket of water and wash it under the tap.
Please: Always in a ventilated environment and using safety goggles and gloves.
I usually do logos with 150, 220, 400 grit + polishing + nitro matte paint (almost no visible difference from anodizing)
I also tried aluminum Birchwood bluing which works but not at the desired black tone(significantly visually different from anodizing)
And I am considering at using diy sticker with 2 part epoxy as adhesive.
Thanks for the answer.
I asked as I have recently received one of these lights with XHP35 HI and I’m totally underwhelmed with it. Its a nice light but throw which is supposed to be 700 meters is pitiful. The only way it would throw 700 meters is if I threw it over the edge of the Grand Canyon.
From memory it was drawing about 2.5 amps at the tailcap.
Is there a picture of your mod anywhere?
Wow’ very nice looking lights guy! :+1:
strip, polished add Maxtoch xm 26mm dd xml2 u4 1a solder MCPCB to the pill.
I like it tim70. :+1:
Thank MRsDNF! 
Baked jaxman x1 host, xhp35 hi 6500k with H2-C driver.
Wow, this came out really nice!!
Thank KawiBoy!
What a great color on that X1 :+1: , I have one with the same setup but it’s still black maybe it’s time to turn on the oven.
Thanks for sharing.
Thank khas! Yes I think it’s time for yours in oven 
totally missed this thread … I just baked up a couple of pieces of an old home depot light … just the tube and the heatsink .it came out very nice . Here’s a pic of the same 5$ light that dchomak did for his wife .(beautiful pic.)
I was bored the other day and did mine right on the burner . it came out pretty nice . the trick is to pull it as soon as you start seeing color .overbaking just makes things lighter and cheaper thinner materials get ugly brassy when baked too long . Better ano and heavier pieces usually come out darker and richer colored …best results are obtained by undercooking because like pasta they are going to keep cooking even when pulled off the stove …think al dente . 
If you make an ugly light you can always strip it and polish it .
tail and head on mine are still black but I ground down the attack bezel and polished the 3/8th” edge I left so it looks like a SS bezel.
… baked up in about 2 minutes on an electric burner on high …
*i’ll get some pics up later
Very nice for five dollars Light. :+1:
Thanks for sharing with us!
Meh was never good at Baking so I Grilled it, wood fired BBQ last night! Added Bright work on the Lathe.
Smells awesome too, Scented with Smoky Goodness! :person_facepalming:
You make me hungry and want some BBQ. “It look good” I like it! :+1: