Hmm… ballpark number… maybe 2017. Maybe 2018. Depends on a lot of factors I’m not informed about. Based on past project timelines, I’d be a little surprised if they’re ready in time for Halloween.
I thought it would be ready within 1-2 months
Well, I can allocate my piggy bank account to another flashlight before this flashlight become available.
Hmm… ballpark number… maybe 2017. Maybe 2018. Depends on a lot of factors I’m not informed about. Based on past project timelines, I’d be a little surprised if they’re ready in time for Halloween.
I thought it would be ready within 1-2 months
Well, I can allocate my piggy bank account to another flashlight before this flashlight become available.
ToyKeeper wrote:
FWIW, I’m totally guessing. It’s just that these things, so far, have never been fast.
Yes I think I should add a line to my sig “it is done when it is done” EDIT, and that is done
Was there ever a final decision made on the emitter type? I know there was a survey run on reddit that showed overwhelming support for 219Cs instead of XP-G3s.
I tend to prefer XPL HI in my triples. They’re much brighter than 219C or XP-G3.
However, I’ve also read recently that XPL2 fit into the Carclo 10507 optic without modification, making them an interesting choice.
Course the downside to these kinds of emitters is they cost more than XP-G3. Maybe just sell an XP-G3 version and if people want different emitters they can swap in their own later.
It seems unlikely given this test that the XP-L HI would be brighter than the XP-G3 in a direct-drive triple. Yes, that’s not the highest bin of XP-L HI, but the forward voltage plays a big role in how much current gets through it, and I’d be shocked if the Carclo optics have as good efficiency with the flat domes.
That’s pretty academic though; they’re close, and you’d probably need an integrating sphere to see which is closer.
I have a preference too, but I don’t care too much as I’m likely to buy several of these and swap in several different emitters. I have a shoebox and a smartphone, so I’ll make some attempt at determining which is brightest, but I don’t care much about that in practice. I care more about color quality than the peak output it can sustain for 45 seconds before it burns my hand (that peak output is a pretty good party trick though).
—
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android
I also have some XP-G2 at about 2250 lm, and they’re decent, but not as nice as my others. And I haven’t tried it with 219C or XP-G3 yet.
Usually I go for a 10511 optic, sometimes stock and sometimes with the texture polished down to give it a bit more throw. For flooders the 10508 / 10509 can be nice too. But I generally don’t use the 10507 — it adds beam artifacts, catches lint, and isn’t really any throwier than a polished 10511.
I’m mainly interested in max turbo brightness. XP-G3s are good enough for me.
The extra current running to 219Cs would decrease turbo runtime because of extra heat would it not?
I agree the 10507 can have a strange beam shape, it is pretty tight and even, but I don’t have a use for such a profile because it’s like a medium-sized hot spot with no spill. 10511 is what I use, it has really nice even-colored flood and is great for photographing and lighting when I go explore abandoned buildings. Also good for general-purpose uses around the house.
It is my understanding XPG3 give a nice max lumens while still having a DTP ledboard compatible with many different LEDs.
And funny thing, reflowing the LEDs on a SRK (from LB blue to XML2 NW) was very easy, in fact I found soldering the led and switch wires to the RMM driver harder
It is my understanding XPG3 give a nice max lumens while still having a DTP ledboard compatible with many different LEDs.
And funny thing, reflowing the LEDs on a SRK (from LB blue to XML2 NW) was very easy, in fact I found soldering the led and switch wires to the RMM driver harder
Flashlights with e-switch are tricky to work with most times …
It is my understanding XPG3 give a nice max lumens while still having a DTP ledboard compatible with many different LEDs.
And funny thing, reflowing the LEDs on a SRK (from LB blue to XML2 NW) was very easy, in fact I found soldering the led and switch wires to the RMM driver harder
Flashlights with e-switch are tricky to work with most times …
The switch is in the tailcap. You need a special driver to get the switch-signal directly to the driver without any switch wire.
It is my understanding XPG3 give a nice max lumens while still having a DTP ledboard compatible with many different LEDs.
And funny thing, reflowing the LEDs on a SRK (from LB blue to XML2 NW) was very easy, in fact I found soldering the led and switch wires to the RMM driver harder
Flashlights with e-switch are tricky to work with most times …
The switch is in the tailcap. You need a special driver to get the switch-signal directly to the driver without any switch wire.
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3 // I get way more privmsgs than I can respond to, so please ask in a public thread if possible, for a faster answer.
Jtm94 wrote:
I’m mainly interested in max turbo brightness.
I’m not too concerned about the turbo brightness. I find that even XP-G2 is plenty. But then, I also only use a few modes most of the time on EDC-style lights. By percent of time spent in each mode…
80% Low (~8 lm)
5% Moon (~0.2 lm)
5% Med (~50 lm)
5% Biking (~200 lm)
4% Disco
1% Turbo
Aside from blinkies and turbo bursts, I almost never use more than two digits worth of lumens. I could happily get by with a 1×7135 driver most of the time. It sure can be fun to go into OMGWTF mode once in a while though.
Please put me down for one. I really hope you take it easy with all these special edition lights, I don’t know how much more of these I can afford. (jk, keep it coming!)
I’ve got a different opinion about all these special edition lights: if you keep offering them at these super value prices, I say bring it on! I can’t afford Zebralights and Noctigon Meteors!
I’ve got a different opinion about all these special edition lights: if you keep offering them at these super value prices, I say bring it on! I can’t afford Zebralights and Noctigon Meteors!
Lol I’m in the same boat. I love that the FW3A is cheaper than building your own Convoy triple, and the Q8 is cheaper than building your own SRK clone.
This light is so close and yet so far from what I want….
For me a modded S2+ seems like a better option. But I decided to give some feedback on I find right and I find wrong with this light.
I’m looking for the ultimate capabilities/size, with capabilities defined as the whole output vs. runtime curve.
Lux-rc’s Minion R1 is probably the current leader here, though quite heavy and can’t be used one-handed. And is very expensive.
This light would be second, yet some design decisions make it significantly larger than it could be. And too large for me.
I don’t understand why the tail and the head need to have so large diameter. 24 mm lights are plentiful. Some accessories (like headbands) assume 24 mm, so here you lose compatibility.
I have a feeling that a switch in the head would add less volume. I guess it would be cheaper too.
With a switch in the head, you could make the threads compatible with Jaxman / S2 and enable users to use cheap short battery tubes. I would surely go with that.
I wonder if with a switch in the head it could have a 21700 battery inside 24 mm tube. I see there are no high-capacity batteries in this size yet, but if they appear, such light would be quite interesting. Guess that’s not compatible with #3
This light is so close and yet so far from what I want….
For me a modded S2+ seems like a better option. But I decided to give some feedback on I find right and I find wrong with this light.
I’m looking for the ultimate capabilities/size, with capabilities defined as the whole output vs. runtime curve.
Lux-rc’s Minion R1 is probably the current leader here, though quite heavy and can’t be used one-handed. And is very expensive.
This light would be second, yet some design decisions make it significantly larger than it could be. And too large for me.
I don’t understand why the tail and the head need to have so large diameter. 24 mm lights are plentiful. Some accessories (like headbands) assume 24 mm, so here you lose compatibility.
I have a feeling that a switch in the head would add less volume. I guess it would be cheaper too.
With a switch in the head, you could make the threads compatible with Jaxman / S2 and enable users to use cheap short battery tubes. I would surely go with that.
I wonder if with a switch in the head it could have a 21700 battery inside 24 mm tube. I see there are no high-capacity batteries in this size yet, but if they appear, such light would be quite interesting. Guess that’s not compatible with #3
Thank you for your feedback!
Well, if you look at the cross-section of the light you see that there isn’t very much material you could take away when you still want to have a decent wall-thickness (0.75mm).
A good part of the charm of this light is the e-switch in the tailcap. There are masses of lights out there which use a clicky-switch at the tail or an e-switch in the head.
You sacrifice 3/4 of the battery capacity if you go for an 18350 tube. So the idea is to make the light so compact that there is no real need for a smaller battery tube.
An 21700 battery in a 24mm tube will get very close. You need at least 21.5mm inner diameter, then 2×0.5mm wall-thickness for the body, 2×0.5mm wall-thickness for the tailcap/ head and then you’re left with around 0.5mm for the threads and that doesn’t work out…
So it seems like the Manker E14 ii or the Astrolux S42 would be the better choices for you, considering that you want a smaller body. Otherwise look at the foursevens atom series.
Do I hear an Echo echo? Get some sleep Miller.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
hahaha the page break made me miss th double posting, thanks, deleted one.
It is done when it is done
How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
I thought it would be ready within 1-2 months
Well, I can allocate my piggy bank account to another flashlight before this flashlight become available.
Blog: https://lumenzilla.com
FWIW, I’m totally guessing. It’s just that these things, so far, have never been fast.
In for one,thanks!
MARK list updated
Yes I think I should add a line to my sig “it is done when it is done”
EDIT, and that is done
It is done when it is done
How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
FWIW?
How about For What 3ats Arth?
Bad raccoon!
Very bad!
How to Post Images on BLF // Many knives for sale (USA only)
How to move a thread
In for one thanks
Yes will update list later
It is done when it is done
How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
Interested in 2 – Thank you
Was there ever a final decision made on the emitter type? I know there was a survey run on reddit that showed overwhelming support for 219Cs instead of XP-G3s.
I tend to prefer XPL HI in my triples. They’re much brighter than 219C or XP-G3.
However, I’ve also read recently that XPL2 fit into the Carclo 10507 optic without modification, making them an interesting choice.
Course the downside to these kinds of emitters is they cost more than XP-G3. Maybe just sell an XP-G3 version and if people want different emitters they can swap in their own later.
Please don’t glue the head.
Hmm this is for Fritz to answer but I haven’t seen stock Nichia mentioned
It is done when it is done
How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
It seems unlikely given this test that the XP-L HI would be brighter than the XP-G3 in a direct-drive triple. Yes, that’s not the highest bin of XP-L HI, but the forward voltage plays a big role in how much current gets through it, and I’d be shocked if the Carclo optics have as good efficiency with the flat domes.
That’s pretty academic though; they’re close, and you’d probably need an integrating sphere to see which is closer.
I have a preference too, but I don’t care too much as I’m likely to buy several of these and swap in several different emitters. I have a shoebox and a smartphone, so I’ll make some attempt at determining which is brightest, but I don’t care much about that in practice. I care more about color quality than the peak output it can sustain for 45 seconds before it burns my hand (that peak output is a pretty good party trick though).
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android
In terms of beam and tint and tint consistency, my best-looking triples are:
I also have some XP-G2 at about 2250 lm, and they’re decent, but not as nice as my others. And I haven’t tried it with 219C or XP-G3 yet.
Usually I go for a 10511 optic, sometimes stock and sometimes with the texture polished down to give it a bit more throw. For flooders the 10508 / 10509 can be nice too. But I generally don’t use the 10507 — it adds beam artifacts, catches lint, and isn’t really any throwier than a polished 10511.
I’m mainly interested in max turbo brightness. XP-G3s are good enough for me.
The extra current running to 219Cs would decrease turbo runtime because of extra heat would it not?
I agree the 10507 can have a strange beam shape, it is pretty tight and even, but I don’t have a use for such a profile because it’s like a medium-sized hot spot with no spill. 10511 is what I use, it has really nice even-colored flood and is great for photographing and lighting when I go explore abandoned buildings. Also good for general-purpose uses around the house.
It is my understanding XPG3 give a nice max lumens while still having a DTP ledboard compatible with many different LEDs.
And funny thing, reflowing the LEDs on a SRK (from LB blue to XML2 NW) was very easy, in fact I found soldering the led and switch wires to the RMM driver harder
It is done when it is done
How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
Flashlights with e-switch are tricky to work with most times …
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
The switch is in the tailcap. You need a special driver to get the switch-signal directly to the driver without any switch wire.
TheMiller is talking for an SRK
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
I’m not too concerned about the turbo brightness. I find that even XP-G2 is plenty. But then, I also only use a few modes most of the time on EDC-style lights. By percent of time spent in each mode…
Aside from blinkies and turbo bursts, I almost never use more than two digits worth of lumens. I could happily get by with a 1×7135 driver most of the time. It sure can be fun to go into OMGWTF mode once in a while though.
Please put me down for one. I really hope you take it easy with all these special edition lights, I don’t know how much more of these I can afford. (jk, keep it coming!)
I’ve got a different opinion about all these special edition lights: if you keep offering them at these super value prices, I say bring it on! I can’t afford Zebralights and Noctigon Meteors!
Lol I’m in the same boat. I love that the FW3A is cheaper than building your own Convoy triple, and the Q8 is cheaper than building your own SRK clone.
Please add me to the list for one. If alternate LED’s like Nichia’s, the. sign me up for two… thanks!
In for one too!!!
4x sbt90.2, actively cooled
-Actively cooled 4x XHP50.2
-Skyray King 4x XPL HI, C8 reflectors
-XHP70.2 Maglite 2D
-Skyray King 7x XML2, 8x 18650
I’ll take one the Miller, gladly
This light is so close and yet so far from what I want….
For me a modded S2+ seems like a better option. But I decided to give some feedback on I find right and I find wrong with this light.
I’m looking for the ultimate capabilities/size, with capabilities defined as the whole output vs. runtime curve.
Lux-rc’s Minion R1 is probably the current leader here, though quite heavy and can’t be used one-handed. And is very expensive.
This light would be second, yet some design decisions make it significantly larger than it could be. And too large for me.
Please add me to the list for one, thank you.
Thank you for your feedback!
So it seems like the Manker E14 ii or the Astrolux S42 would be the better choices for you, considering that you want a smaller body. Otherwise look at the foursevens atom series.
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