BLF style 18650 1s thrower( poor mans Olight M2X)

I’ve been testing some that way as well, remove the lens completely and see what the baseline is then test different lenses to see what comes close to no lens at all. Ironically, the Klarus G35 AR coated glass lens is really good, very comparable to an UCLp. To be fair, the UCLp in acrylic isn’t as good as the glass UCL, so there is that small room for improvement. With the glass UCL with a claimed 99%+ transmittance, you’re just not going to get a better lens. Problem is, of course, the size limitations of that lens.

If you take the lens out and see green glass on the sides, there’s room for improvement. Whether it’s AR coated or not. If the glass is water white, you have in your hands a nice lens and it’s probably not worth spending money looking for improvement.

This are Soup lenses(uncleaned and dusty and fingerprinted as they come from manufacturer):

I am not sure… If this is bad green?

There are better lenses that will allow more light transmission, yes.
I use the light box, primarily, to see lumens difference between lenses. Lux can show big differences for a throwe, not much so for flooders.

  • AR lens
  • xp-g2 s4 (new)

distance from 6m I get 295.000 Lux.

greez

Very good number on new type XP-G2 :open_mouth:
Was the focussing hard to do?

Hi, I’m still waiting for my supwilfire, but I have a uniquefire 1504 with new XP-G2 s4 2b with blf a6 and fresh liitokala produces 446000 cd at 7 m.

Guys there are also lux meter variables we have to involve… 300 kcd sounds very optimistic for new G2 S4 2B. I bet that same light would show around 220 kcd on my lux meter. And maybe someone uses android application as lux meter.

I really wish if there would be group buy for some cheap and good luxmeters that are calibrated on the same way at same manufacturer so we would all have same calibrated light meters. That would not mean that they are proper readers like more expensive ones of course but we would all have same results for comparison.

Edit: Most of us have that uni-t clamp meters for current readings and it is very good reader indeed… I trust that company so I ordered my backup light meter from them and it seems cheap and good? Here

Make sure to monitor your orders. I just noticed mine is classified as Completed and funds are transferring to the vendor. I ordered when this thread first came out. Tracking only shows that the package has departed China.

That is a very cheap luxmeter, l.i.! I ordered one and will check against my fancy one.
But even with th same type luxmeter I would not really trust the calibration (over time) if it is this cheap. But it is already better than the random mix of cheapies that people are using now

strip, polished add Maxtoch xm 26mm dd xml2 u4 1a solder MCPCB to the pill still no AR len yet still waiting.

How do you stripped the anodiziation off ? With acid?

Robert

What pill you used ?

This is my luxometro, I do not think that variable is as large as 220000cd to 300000 cd, it is obvious that there are differences, but I do not think they are 25% to 30%, I am new to this, I am learning, a big greeting for everyone !!

I`ve used the same pill, but it is a bit to small for this light, so I`ve done a few solder blobs around the threads and now it`s a tight fit and new threads are cutted it selfs. I think in his case, the reflector gives enough pressure down to the pill, so it isn`t hanging loose around.

Robert

I use drano professional strength crystals stripped the anodiziation off.
I got the pill from fasttech it doesn’t fit I have to glued.

Old USA copper 1c, sanded flat:

Epoxied into the pill, and together sanded down flush, wire holes drilled from back at 45 degrees outwards:

Side view together with MCPCB, pill ledge ended up about 2/3 sanded away:

Used these centering washers, but sanded very thin. Fit is not tight in the reflector and centering is touchy:

U6-3A XPL-HI. DD+1 driver, ~1200 lumen. Measures only 144 kcd, but nice profile:

Pill originally had a rubber o-ring, preventing it from screwing down all the way. Now with the pill properly screwed down the cell tube will need to be shortened, it can only screw in up to its o-ring.

Someone should try the funnel shaped XP centering ring that Simon had made for his C8’s. They work really well. So well that Eagle Eye is now including a clone as an optional centering ring in their host X6’s. :wink:

Eagle Eye are using their own XP centerig ring: i was speaking about it initialy
Its thin, easy to sand and works quite well with that reflector
Their XML centering rings works great too, its just it needs aditional glueing to the mcpcb in order to be fixed( for XP)

The seller shipping time is worst possible though….got several of those hosts on a wait status already 2+ months

It sensor is more directly connected to motherboard (no long stretchy cables).
Could long and stretchy cables have any influence on lux meter performance? If they could have this is some kind of direct connection…
I think it could be winner same as his clamp meter brother most of us use now for current draw measurement.
Looking forward for your comparison with super duper light meter :wink:

Guys very nice mods indeed…

Here is mine… Prepared for 26mm mcpcb(I did not want to polish cause I think this will be better for artic alumina thermal gluing I am planing:

Sweet and clean! Nice work DEL! :+1: