Thanks for the info , all clear now.Will shoot you a pm with my order
a lot reflow work done
cleaned and visual inspected
Been there, done that. That is a lot more work then it looks like (and it looks like a lot).
What do you guys use to inspect them, a magnifying glass?
I’ve found that my phone camera set to 5x zoom and a small flashlight makes for a very handy video microscope kind of thing.
If I had to do a lot of drivers I would get a tiny turntable so I could rotate each driver while holding the camera and light fairly steady. It’s so much easier on my eyes. :+1:
I always wear a magnifying headset when soldering these types of things, no way would I try to do that with the naked eye on a regular basis.
I have a much stronger 10X magnifier for detail inspections if I need it.
I need a magnifying headset. Do you know of a good one?
I got mine at harbor freight many years ago, they have a different one now. It should still work but only has the extra magnifier over 1 eye instead of both like mine. They are sell them on amazon as well.
Soldering smd stuff for me is like firing a sniper rifle. I set up the shot, hold my breath and gently make quick contact to the joint. Then I breath and check my work. Lol
It is much much easier when you can see what you are doing. I really want a big desktop magnifier or better yet a microscope but they are a weee bit more then the $5 I spent on the headset, so I will live.
for inspecting this tiny stuff enough light is more important than magnification
I dont need magnifier to check those boards, if there is a bridge I see it under my 1000 Lumens desktop lamp which has a narrow beam
This is why I don’t even bother trying to use an iron for smd anymore. Solder paste + hot air is much easier.
Thats how I make those hot air gun and solder paste.
I only occasionally swap resistors or add leds in the 1206, 0805 range. So not very often. Hot air station for me doesn’t make sense cost wise. I’m okay with an iron, but a good magnifying head piece with lights built in might be my next purchase.
If I built drivers, then a hot air station might be worth the expense.
I am trying to get the OTSM drivers to work,
first
does only get low mode, nothing else
the 2.
gets only low-medium-high
tapping often does not enter config mode
long clicks are not working at all
the 3. only in low mode
I have a helluf a time getting the parts to stay in place with hot air, even slowing the air flow rate way down. Is there a trick I am missing? Maybe I need to mount the board differently and hold the parts in place somehow. But, with a bunch of parts that is not likely to happen…
You could try the skillet method for the side of the board that has the smaller components, and then hot-air the 7135 side.
Which size driver? Which configuration? (1S / etc) Is there a bleeder installed?
17mm
Attiny 25V
no bleeder
1S R1 1k / R2 3.3k
and
2S LDO R1 1.78k/ R2 2.21k
I got the feeling the resistors are maybe switched in manual description R1 smaler than and R2 is opposite to normal Bistro drivers?
build and flashed like in Flintrocks topic
avrdude -c usbasp -p t25 -u -Uflash:w:bistro-TAv1-OTSM-HD-attiny25.hex -U lfuse:w:0xd2:m -U hfuse:w:0xde:m -U efuse:w:0xff:m
avrdude -c usbasp -p t25 -u -Uflash:w:bistro-TAv1-OTSM-LDO-HD-attiny25.hex -U lfuse:w:0xd2:m -U hfuse:w:0xde:m -U efuse:w:0xff:m
P.S.
the 2S LDO needs a diode which is not present at the 17mm board, so I need to piggyback this
OK adding the diode to the 17mm 2S worked, its now alright
maybe the hex file he delivers is corrupted for 1S