Someone should try the funnel shaped XP centering ring that Simon had made for his C8’s. They work really well. So well that Eagle Eye is now including a clone as an optional centering ring in their host X6’s. 
Eagle Eye are using their own XP centerig ring: i was speaking about it initialy
Its thin, easy to sand and works quite well with that reflector
Their XML centering rings works great too, its just it needs aditional glueing to the mcpcb in order to be fixed( for XP)
The seller shipping time is worst possible though….got several of those hosts on a wait status already 2+ months
It sensor is more directly connected to motherboard (no long stretchy cables).
Could long and stretchy cables have any influence on lux meter performance? If they could have this is some kind of direct connection…
I think it could be winner same as his clamp meter brother most of us use now for current draw measurement.
Looking forward for your comparison with super duper light meter
Guys very nice mods indeed…
Here is mine… Prepared for 26mm mcpcb(I did not want to polish cause I think this will be better for artic alumina thermal gluing I am planing:
Sweet and clean! Nice work DEL! :+1:
Amazing Old School BLF type work guy’s! 
There is a way after all…
I have build the pill for 26mm mcpcb and drilled the hole in reflector as I promised to you guys…
Than something came on my mind… 16mm mcbcb is doable! 
You can look:
It is good old XP-G2 S4 2B inside. Diy FET driver. Current draw only 4.3A. My old lux meter(new uni-t is still on a way) says 280kcd (but it probably under reads for 20% which I can’t now for sure)
Pics taken with generic phone camera and beam picture is on low mode at white wall 2,2meters ceiling.
Now after that(in day or two) I will assemble one with 26mm mcpcb g2s42b pill I already done and compare:
Nice work there li , that’s what i plan to do in my next one , probably with a 10mm board .
If there will not be significant difference with 26mm mcpcb I would recommend 16mm mcpcb to anyone.
It is easy!
You just need to drill hole in reflector(and I stacked additional 16mm noctigon beneath upper one for better heat transfer, and because of that nasty middle donat hole in pill)
I used this tool and hand aku drill:
Nice work on the reflector luminarium iaculator and looking forward to the comparison between the two different mods.
I assembled 26mm one today. Tried to center it with direct contact to mcpcb(reflector base touched mcpcb so emitter was at it highest point, even slightly above that bottom reflector ring since I sanded it thin) and while the beam was ok I was getting bad results…
Then I started slightly with raising reflector above mcpcb and there it was…
But only 260kcd on my old/bad lux meter. Tint and beam profile are more or less the same.
16mm mcpcb reflector drill mod seems to have slightly clearer and warmer beam, and of course slightly better performance.
I am probably using bit different centering method than you guys but when doing 26mm one just thin centering ring around the led should do the trick… Or if you do eye centering method like myself about 4-5 layers of kapton tape on bottom base of reflector should do the trick.
That worries me cause I already have 3x additional xpg2s42b reflowed 26mm mcpcb’s for other lights.
And because of all possible variables(reflector, emitter, centering) I am not sure that mentioned bottom circle in reflector is guilty for such results…
And only solution which can tell the truth is to drill through new reflector again and to see if there will be any lux difference.
I yet have to make decision for this.
are you using new or old xpg2 s4?
Good old one as I mentioned in earlier posts. They are harvested from meteor flashlight.
Edit fast pic comparison on low mode:
left is 260 kcd 26mm pill mod righ is 280 kcd 16mm pill mod (and it seems camera caught pwm)
I found about the same with the XPL-HI above. One layer of kapton was slightly worse than a ~0.3 mm sanded gasket. (No work done on the reflector.)
I received a second light this week. This one had a black (off-center glued) MCPB with a black 19 mm insulating cup on top of the black centering gasket. Also an Omten switch. 1st one had a white MCPCB, same black centering gasket, but no cup and a Kan-28 switch with ill-fitting rubber boot.
The battery tube on both lights do not thread into the head all the way. Anyone try to shorten the threads on the tube?
I like the 16mm solution with the reflector base removed. :+1:
I`ve modded a M3X today with S4 1A, running at 4.8 amps( a slight bump from the driver default) ….440k cds, the beam profile is quite scope frendly the default emitter bracket needed a little bit of sanding
Yet, like in this case here i think that the beam profile becomes quite narrow for a 24/7 non scope BLF use, even for my taste, and i like tight beams
Yes… My first one came with Kan-28 and other ones came like you mentioned.
Is there really a need to shorten the tube? I think there is no need for that. Tube threads all the way and touches the pill but then it leaves small gap(it swallows original o ring and oring does not looses its function but small gap is seen).
I just thread lock it and put additional oring there:
Mitko thanks for this light. I will modd and sell some to old school hunters.
But IMHO and I am very sure what I am talking about nothing can compete with a aspheric light fitted with precoolimator when it comes to scope hunting.
For example 220 kcd modded 1503 flashlight with precoolimator vs lets say 300kcd supwildfire, both fitted with same driver and xpg2 dd led.
1503 has significantly larger hotspot and not only that 200 kcd of 1503 aspheric beam visually outthrows 300kcd reflector soupfire beam pattern. Confirmed by several people that where standing and just observing next to me. So light meter says one thing but in real use aspheric wins. That why I like them so much… Cause it is very important what I can see in the night not just the numbers.
Some of you will say numbers are numbers and that they should not make a difference but I say opposite: “you’ll see further in a night with aspheric beam pattern”.
I can explain and give my theory about that phenomen but this is Soupwildfire modding thread and it is very nice reflector flashlight and I really hope my old and probably broken meter under reads mentioned 260 and 280kcd I got… I will report new measurements with new uni-t meter when it arrives…
I have shortened the battery tubes but at the same time had to bore the inside a little deeper as well to clear the pill.
For orings that work I’ve been using 1.8mm section, not sure of the OD but around the same as the standard ones.
Ah, knew it was not that easy. I noticed the one side is bored to fit around the pill, but not that it was that shallow. Thanks for the heads-up!
Too bad everything around the pill is so screwed up with this light. Would make a nice outdoors beater light if the fit is made more secure and reliable.
Thread lock it for more secure and reliable fit as I did. No one will be able to unscrew it after that… Not even Arnold
Only way to unscrew after that is with heat gun when thread locker melts.