For mod based on thеsе flashlights I use 16 mm noctigon mcpcb , but treated with emery paper. So it may be 15.9 or close to it.
Reflector of Xtar h3 have dimensions 19*11mm
Another important characteristic is existence of pwm flickering. I know that broit have low frequency pwm .
Nitecore, Skilhunt, Zl , Armytek have no pwm flickering.
Do you mean the Boruit RJ02? That’s the one model headlight I own. I don’t have any visable pwm. Only on camera does it become visable. Maybe I’m not sensitive to it?
the H03 has a buck driver with significant voltage drop
without spring bypass only a almost full high drain cell gives 3A to the LED
it comes with a DTP star
Output of h03 more than 1000lm. With out hi drain cell.
For H03 there are also high efficiency drivers "buck":http://forum.fonarevka.ru/showthread.php?t=22959 and "boost":http://forum.fonarevka.ru/showthread.php?t=35292
Someone just stole my h30, so I am looking to buy one of these two. Could anyone point me to where I could pick one of these two up for around $30? Thanks.
You’ll have to look/wait for a sale. I think the H03 and hc30 are about $40 on some Aliexpress stores at the moment, but I don’t see anything cheaper.
BTW, stores to watch are Banggood, Gearbest, Fasttech and Aliexpress. I’ve found that if you have an account with them you can put the lights you like on a wishlist/favorite and they will email you whenever those products go on sale. Sometimes it’s an email only sale that only a few will see.
You can also contact MadMax and Freeme to see if they have any coupon codes for the lights you want.
Also, I’ve seen youtube reviewers post coupon codes in the video description area.
I just recieved my Crelant CH10, CW version for about $21. It’s really nice. The cool white isn’t as cool as I’d like, but at least it’s not blueish like the Boruit RJ02. Color accuracy is quite good.
A 60° tir lens from MTN Electronics drops right in. The all metal construction is very beefy compared to the Boruit. The waterproofing seems better as well. Max brightness is higher. EDIT: Even though max brightness is about 150 lumen due to only 0.18 amp draw.EDIT 2: I took the driver out to look at it then put it back together and now it’s working much better. I got 1.4A and it’s visable brighter. Probably the 460 lumen it’s rated at.
I’m not sure I need the 2 different user brightness settings as one seems fine. Having 2 setting means you have to cycle through both to turn the light off, but it’s not that big a deal.
It does have a strobe mode when you double click, but I have no use for it. Maybe it’s good for jogging?
I’d like to put some switch leds in it to show when power is connected. Then turn the tail cap to manually lock it out.
Hi Jason thank you for the list.
And for other visitors to know when choosing the right LED headlightsfirst
You need to know if your LED lights require at constant voltage or constant current supplied. second is Make sure the milliamp rating on your LED light matches your LED driver, although there are many different milliamp ratings. Make sure the wattage of the LED driver is higher than the total number of lights. This means if you require for 3 watt LED ground lights, the LED driver you will require will be 12 watts or higher, because 4 times 3 Watts equals 12 watts, if you’re specifying an LED driver for LED tape you need to multiply the wattage per meter of the LED tape, and the length of your rod or room. So if the LED tape is 14 point 4 watts per meter and you have 3 meters you would require an LED driver rated that’s over 40 three-on-two watts, which could be a 60 watt LED driver, such as the Meanwell l PV 60 12 or LP v 6 to 24 depending on the voltage of the LED tape. and lastly make sure the output voltage of your LED driver is compatible with the input voltage of your LED lights. just sharing.