I got my first TV at the tender age of 45, so if it start being a smart it will go strait for recycling plant.
Not much worth watching on flow TV, and i cant seem to find a steaming service that steam what i like to see, and thatās not mind numming series and so on.
Sadly i am forced by my landlord to pay for a cable TV package, if it wasent for that sad fact my TV would be in its box.
Arrgh! Cable! I wonāt even consider it today. I must have cable for my internet (and now Amazon Prime), or pay even higher prices for decent connection rates via other means. But to get a bundled cable package is just under $100, I donāt remember the actual amount. But basically itās near $1200/year for most channels that I have absolutely no interest in watching and donāt want to support. Maybe someday a cable company will have a package that allows me to get only the channels I want. Then I might consider cable but not until then. So I maintain an antenna.
I have to use the cable to have an internet connection, costs 60ā¬ per month, fiberoptics is even more expensive! but the internet connection is quite good and 150Mbps
The fastest I can get is 60Mps, but I think weāre presently at 25. I ought to call and get the upgrade since itās basically free, but Iām not having problems at 25 so IMO it just isnāt worth making the call.
OT, same experience here with smart TVās. Slow and klunky with less than ideal UI.
Instead I run a 20ft hdmi cable from the gaming/entertainment PC to the receiver and use a wireless mouse and sometimes keyboard to navigate Netflix/YouTube/Light Gaming/etc on the big screen TV. Universal remote sets everything to the correct input with a push of a button.
Yes, he certainly took great pictures of the light
From his pictures it seems that the plastic rings are not higher than the brass ring. I think this was brought up before. Can someone confirm that it will not act as protection against a reversed cell? Seems like the only protection in that case will be the cellās wrapper. Better have a big fat warning about cell orientation somewhere because that design makes it look like itās safe while itās really not.
I posted bout this in detail. The inner plastic is definitely lower while the outer plastic is slightly lower than the brass contact ring. Dunno if any other proto holders can tell any better.
If the outer plastic was raised above the contact ring, than the stock SANYO GA cells (no button tops) would not work, but they do work just fine. The GA tops are wider than the brass ring.
I thought all the cells we are recommending do have the wrapper to prevent reverse contact? Is that not really good?
Yes you did Tomā¦ I remember reading the post. It was very detailed and seems good enough as far as I am concerned. :+1:
Everything in life cannot be dumbed down to the least common denominatorā¦ there are trade offās.
Makes sense to keep it this way if it allows some flat tops to work as is. But perhaps drop any mention of reverse polarity protection, if there are any besides the first post driver design section. While technically it is there, itās only of any use if you put all cells the wrong way around and they make contact.
Iām not sure Iād trust the wrapper rubbing against the brass ring to keep preventing contact for very long. This is definitely a light where youāll want to double check cell orientation before screwing it back together. That should be made very clear to buyers.
Good point fixed, will add a line in bold in the manual to be cautious with cell orientation.
Yes we want the enclosed manual to be post 3 top part and the basic Narsil operations with the menu options
PD said, āSome of you have noticed Iām not around much anymore. However I was in this from the beginning so Iām honored to have been sent a sample.ā
That goes for me too. (sorry about that)
First and quick impressions.
Awesome and Impressive!
Looks and feels great! I dont have any āexpensiveā lights to compare but did hold some. So I can say that I dont have to idea that Iām handling a cheap or budget light.
Anodization is flawless, together with the sharp white laser engraved text and the nice looking stainless bezel the outside looks like a real expensive light.
I really like that the battery tube has no text on it, the only text you see is on the top part of the head en at the bottom of the tailcap.
Speaking of battery tube, the knurling and design is just perfect. Sharp enough to have a good grip but not too sharp to hurt or damage your hand.
It has nice cleanly cut square threads with enough engagement. The o-ring could engage a bit heavier, but Iām sure it seals up good enough.
Contact board at the tail looks good. nice big traces. Itās held in place with 4 screws. Also here too are some nice cleanly cut square threads.
The driver board in the head has a nice brass contactring with some black plastic insulating rings around it. I really like it that you can see the Q8 in viaās in the driver board. It is held in place with 2 screws for easy acces.
Driver itself looks good.
The reflector is (/was, once taken out it will get dirty and or damaged, be carefull!!) flawless. It feels really heavy for a reflector! Its machined from a big piece of aluminium. It has a nice cutout for the wireās and 2 cutouts for the screws that are holding the led board down. The reflector itself is held down on the led board by one screw in the middle.
The led board is a good looking thick piece of copper, itās secured by 2 screws. It has some nice big looking traces.
I have some pictures, Iāll try to post them tomorrow.
Nice Thijsco!
No need for apologies man! You said you were busy and yet managed to do major part in feedback and design and CAD files for the GT! While still being engaged in the Q8, so doing a lot, yet not posting here but heck all the other things are a lot as it is!
Thanks!
And Thorfire should be well aware that BLF folks will be watching āover timeā and raising BLFās own version of the red flag if the quality starts to be nibbled down a bit at a time.