Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

I got my first TV at the tender age of 45, so if it start being a smart it will go strait for recycling plant.

Not much worth watching on flow TV, and i cant seem to find a steaming service that steam what i like to see, and thatā€™s not mind numming series and so on.

Sadly i am forced by my landlord to pay for a cable TV package, if it wasent for that sad fact my TV would be in its box.

Arrgh! Cable! I wonā€™t even consider it today. I must have cable for my internet (and now Amazon Prime), or pay even higher prices for decent connection rates via other means. But to get a bundled cable package is just under $100, I donā€™t remember the actual amount. But basically itā€™s near $1200/year for most channels that I have absolutely no interest in watching and donā€™t want to support. Maybe someday a cable company will have a package that allows me to get only the channels I want. Then I might consider cable but not until then. So I maintain an antenna.

I have to use the cable to have an internet connection, costs 60ā‚¬ per month, fiberoptics is even more expensive! but the internet connection is quite good and 150Mbps :wink:

The fastest I can get is 60Mps, but I think weā€™re presently at 25. I ought to call and get the upgrade since itā€™s basically free, but Iā€™m not having problems at 25 so IMO it just isnā€™t worth making the call.

OT, same experience here with smart TVā€™s. Slow and klunky with less than ideal UI.

Instead I run a 20ft hdmi cable from the gaming/entertainment PC to the receiver and use a wireless mouse and sometimes keyboard to navigate Netflix/YouTube/Light Gaming/etc on the big screen TV. Universal remote sets everything to the correct input with a push of a button.

Come on, I think PD68s impressions deserve a little more attention and are more interesting then cables and ISP stuff :wink:

Yes, he certainly took great pictures of the light :smiley:

From his pictures it seems that the plastic rings are not higher than the brass ring. I think this was brought up before. Can someone confirm that it will not act as protection against a reversed cell? Seems like the only protection in that case will be the cellā€™s wrapper. Better have a big fat warning about cell orientation somewhere because that design makes it look like itā€™s safe while itā€™s really not.

Noteworthy, if confirmed.
Is there a draft of the instruction text floating around anywhere?

I posted bout this in detail. The inner plastic is definitely lower while the outer plastic is slightly lower than the brass contact ring. Dunno if any other proto holders can tell any better.

If the outer plastic was raised above the contact ring, than the stock SANYO GA cells (no button tops) would not work, but they do work just fine. The GA tops are wider than the brass ring.

I thought all the cells we are recommending do have the wrapper to prevent reverse contact? Is that not really good?

Yes confirm
Manual is in one of the first posts Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light - #3 by The_Miller

Thank you for your time, in sharing your observations of this Q8 with us pilotdog68 ! :+1:

Yes you did Tomā€¦ I remember reading the post. It was very detailed and seems good enough as far as I am concerned. :+1:
Everything in life cannot be dumbed down to the least common denominatorā€¦ there are trade offā€™s. :slight_smile:

Nice rundown of your Q8 impressions PDā€¦sounds good. :slight_smile: Thank you. :+1:
Winston looks like a ā€˜keeperā€™. :slight_smile:

I also found it useful to read:
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/45888

For details on driver and modes.

Makes sense to keep it this way if it allows some flat tops to work as is. But perhaps drop any mention of reverse polarity protection, if there are any besides the first post driver design section. While technically it is there, itā€™s only of any use if you put all cells the wrong way around and they make contact.

Iā€™m not sure Iā€™d trust the wrapper rubbing against the brass ring to keep preventing contact for very long. This is definitely a light where youā€™ll want to double check cell orientation before screwing it back together. That should be made very clear to buyers.

/\\\\\\\

Well said fixed it :+1:

Good point fixed, will add a line in bold in the manual to be cautious with cell orientation.
Yes we want the enclosed manual to be post 3 top part and the basic Narsil operations with the menu options

PD said, ā€œSome of you have noticed Iā€™m not around much anymore. However I was in this from the beginning so Iā€™m honored to have been sent a sample.ā€
That goes for me too. (sorry about that)

First and quick impressions.
Awesome and Impressive!

Looks and feels great! I dont have any ā€˜expensiveā€™ lights to compare but did hold some. So I can say that I dont have to idea that Iā€™m handling a cheap or budget light.
Anodization is flawless, together with the sharp white laser engraved text and the nice looking stainless bezel the outside looks like a real expensive light.
I really like that the battery tube has no text on it, the only text you see is on the top part of the head en at the bottom of the tailcap.
Speaking of battery tube, the knurling and design is just perfect. Sharp enough to have a good grip but not too sharp to hurt or damage your hand.
It has nice cleanly cut square threads with enough engagement. The o-ring could engage a bit heavier, but Iā€™m sure it seals up good enough.

Contact board at the tail looks good. nice big traces. Itā€™s held in place with 4 screws. Also here too are some nice cleanly cut square threads.
The driver board in the head has a nice brass contactring with some black plastic insulating rings around it. I really like it that you can see the Q8 in viaā€™s in the driver board. It is held in place with 2 screws for easy acces.
Driver itself looks good.

The reflector is (/was, once taken out it will get dirty and or damaged, be carefull!!) flawless. It feels really heavy for a reflector! Its machined from a big piece of aluminium. It has a nice cutout for the wireā€™s and 2 cutouts for the screws that are holding the led board down. The reflector itself is held down on the led board by one screw in the middle.

The led board is a good looking thick piece of copper, itā€™s secured by 2 screws. It has some nice big looking traces.

I have some pictures, Iā€™ll try to post them tomorrow.

Nice Thijsco!
No need for apologies man! You said you were busy and yet managed to do major part in feedback and design and CAD files for the GT! While still being engaged in the Q8, so doing a lot, yet not posting here but heck all the other things are a lot as it is!
Thanks!

And Thorfire should be well aware that BLF folks will be watching ā€œover timeā€ and raising BLFā€™s own version of the red flag if the quality starts to be nibbled down a bit at a time.