Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

Yes, past projects have typically had quite a few hiccups. I hope Thorfire will be better than most, and considering how the samples turned out, things look very promising.

Everyone I’ve showed Narsil to loves it. I give people a choice of whatever firmware they want, and so far everyone has gone for the ramping UI. I think it’ll be a huge hit.

I rather enjoy the Q8 vias too. It’s a nice touch, in a light full of nice touches. It also makes for a good thread mascot:

Is it too late to add those final details, as shown, in the PCB mask? It could make the light a real conversation piece! :smiley:

soooo all the light are in? Woot woot

No, I think DEL still needs his. We’re just as likely to get scope plots from him as pictures :smiley:

Is there any issue with the solder boobs on my cells comparing em with the button top’s ? I mean resistance, throw etc

I was curious about one thing. I know the mcpcb has 2 screws holding it down to the shelf for heat transfer, but does the bezel and lens also push down on the reflector like on most flashlights?

(Giving better and more even heat transfer between the mcpcb and shelf)

So with the prototype how’s the heat disapation. Does it get super hot when on full power fast or in min?

There might be a slight, very slight; difference. Tom E did some testing on this but I can’t find it right now. If I do I will post a link to it. But IIRC, the difference was very slight.

Another thing to consider is all boobs are not created equal. Some like tiny boobs while others prefer large… some even solder giant boobs on their cells. I think this boils down to personal preference or either that is just how theirs turned out.

Either way…. I’m sure your boobs will be more than adequate.

I’ll try to find a link to Tom’s post on batteries & post the link. :slight_smile:

Hilarious! Teacher, there is no way you typed that without laughing.

:wink: … Thanks… :slight_smile: … I saw the opening & couldn’t pass it up. :smiley:
To be honest…. I’m still laughing. :wink:

Well kntx, it appears in what I posted above…. I remembered wrong. HERE is a link to one of Tom E’s battery tests.

It appears the boobs out did the buttons. :+1: … Imagine that…… :wink:

heheh TK, no I dont think those silk additions are possible, would be funny though :wink:

EDIT: List updated

Of course, silly. Boobs always win.




I rest my case……. :+1: … :wink:

< Am I seeing things or is TK wearing glasses?

Button tops are typically spot welded (I believe), and the metal - not sure how good the conductivity, so totally up to the mysterious 3rd party that installs the button tops. Solder, though supposed not great conductivity, is solid to the battery top. I would think/guess solder boobs will always do better, and my testing seems to prove that out compared to the button tops I have, and tested.

For durability, reliability, button tops win out every time - solder is soft, subject to going flat over time (not drooping), plus the metal could be rubbing off on the brass contact ring over time - bad if it fragments, but not sure bout that. I think I've seen this occurring though - probably best if the brass ring is polished smooth.

To fix this, could solder brass buttons to the top of the batteries. I've done this several times as well. I haven't had one fail yet, but never used them in an SRK style light (contact ring). I'd be concerned about the quality of the solder bond, if the brass button is at risk of falling off over time. Probably dependent on how well the solder job is done - clean surfaced, good amt of flux, etc. If you do use brass buttons, I'd say the contact surface should be sanded down on the edges so there's smooth contact - most of these buttons come with sharp edges. Brass will hold up better than solder for sure, but brass is relatively soft compared to steel for example, but it would be brass to brass contact so maybe that's good.

I dunno if all these concerns are warranted - I got limited long term experience with these usages.

I refer you to kramer5150’s avatar from July 2015:

So… you’re saying the softness of boobs might make them lose their zing after menOhmpause?

Let’s not even start on the puns related to electrical conductivity being measured in siemens.

In practical terms though, solder blobs are relatively easy to rejuvenate when necessary. Just re-melt it, maybe add a little solder, or file down the tip a bit (ouch), and it should be good as new. I’ve had to do this occasionally on blobbed drivers when the contact surface gets dirty. It may also be a good idea to clean the contact ring on a SRK-style light once in a while.

This kind of thing isn’t limited to just solder though. I also have to clean the battery (steel? zinc? nickel?) and contact post (aluminum) on L3 L10 lights periodically, since it gets thoroughly blackened during use.

I’m glad the Q8 has a thick contact ring, since it’s going to get worn over time regardless of what the battery tops are made of. With a thin ring like a regular PCB copper pour, wear is visible after just one use… but this thick brass ring will likely last pretty much forever.

I would not know, i rarely get to know one from the other sex good enough for me to ask for permission to examine her features that close.
And i am not the kind that jump at every little chance he get, that actually make me suspicious and work like a bucket of ice-water on me.

On a more serious note, would it be possible to make a contact ring with raised areas in the right places so flat tops would work in it too ?

Or am i overthinking again.