Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

So with the prototype howā€™s the heat disapation. Does it get super hot when on full power fast or in min?

There might be a slight, very slight; difference. Tom E did some testing on this but I canā€™t find it right now. If I do I will post a link to it. But IIRC, the difference was very slight.

Another thing to consider is all boobs are not created equal. Some like tiny boobs while others prefer largeā€¦ some even solder giant boobs on their cells. I think this boils down to personal preference or either that is just how theirs turned out.

Either wayā€¦. Iā€™m sure your boobs will be more than adequate.

Iā€™ll try to find a link to Tomā€™s post on batteries & post the link. :slight_smile:

Hilarious! Teacher, there is no way you typed that without laughing.

:wink: ā€¦ Thanksā€¦ :slight_smile: ā€¦ I saw the opening & couldnā€™t pass it up. :smiley:
To be honestā€¦. Iā€™m still laughing. :wink:

Well kntx, it appears in what I posted aboveā€¦. I remembered wrong. HERE is a link to one of Tom Eā€™s battery tests.

It appears the boobs out did the buttons. :+1: ā€¦ Imagine thatā€¦ā€¦ :wink:

heheh TK, no I dont think those silk additions are possible, would be funny though :wink:

EDIT: List updated

Of course, silly. Boobs always win.




I rest my caseā€¦ā€¦. :+1: ā€¦ :wink:

< Am I seeing things or is TK wearing glasses?

Button tops are typically spot welded (I believe), and the metal - not sure how good the conductivity, so totally up to the mysterious 3rd party that installs the button tops. Solder, though supposed not great conductivity, is solid to the battery top. I would think/guess solder boobs will always do better, and my testing seems to prove that out compared to the button tops I have, and tested.

For durability, reliability, button tops win out every time - solder is soft, subject to going flat over time (not drooping), plus the metal could be rubbing off on the brass contact ring over time - bad if it fragments, but not sure bout that. I think I've seen this occurring though - probably best if the brass ring is polished smooth.

To fix this, could solder brass buttons to the top of the batteries. I've done this several times as well. I haven't had one fail yet, but never used them in an SRK style light (contact ring). I'd be concerned about the quality of the solder bond, if the brass button is at risk of falling off over time. Probably dependent on how well the solder job is done - clean surfaced, good amt of flux, etc. If you do use brass buttons, I'd say the contact surface should be sanded down on the edges so there's smooth contact - most of these buttons come with sharp edges. Brass will hold up better than solder for sure, but brass is relatively soft compared to steel for example, but it would be brass to brass contact so maybe that's good.

I dunno if all these concerns are warranted - I got limited long term experience with these usages.

I refer you to kramer5150ā€™s avatar from July 2015:

Soā€¦ youā€™re saying the softness of boobs might make them lose their zing after menOhmpause?

Letā€™s not even start on the puns related to electrical conductivity being measured in siemens.

ā€¦

In practical terms though, solder blobs are relatively easy to rejuvenate when necessary. Just re-melt it, maybe add a little solder, or file down the tip a bit (ouch), and it should be good as new. Iā€™ve had to do this occasionally on blobbed drivers when the contact surface gets dirty. It may also be a good idea to clean the contact ring on a SRK-style light once in a while.

This kind of thing isnā€™t limited to just solder though. I also have to clean the battery (steel? zinc? nickel?) and contact post (aluminum) on L3 L10 lights periodically, since it gets thoroughly blackened during use.

Iā€™m glad the Q8 has a thick contact ring, since itā€™s going to get worn over time regardless of what the battery tops are made of. With a thin ring like a regular PCB copper pour, wear is visible after just one useā€¦ but this thick brass ring will likely last pretty much forever.

I would not know, i rarely get to know one from the other sex good enough for me to ask for permission to examine her features that close.
And i am not the kind that jump at every little chance he get, that actually make me suspicious and work like a bucket of ice-water on me.

On a more serious note, would it be possible to make a contact ring with raised areas in the right places so flat tops would work in it too ?

Or am i overthinking again.

I think, flats tops will work with it now as isā€¦ sparkyDK. :slight_smile:

EDIT: If they are of proper length. :+1:
ā€¦ā€¦ā€¦ā€¦
FINAL EDIT: ā€¦ Sanyo GA flat tops will work because they are raised flattops.
Q 30 flat tops or any cell with flat tops like themā€¦ WILL NOT work.

My apologies for the initial incorrect informatio I gave. :person_facepalming:

Iā€™ve been watching this on and off since the beginning and it looks like itā€™s finally coming together into a really impressive light, well done and thanks to everyone involved in the design. Please put me down for one.

Do we have any rough timeframe on shipping the final version yet? Once approved are they ready to start manufacturing?

Sheriously, typical flat tops won't work, and not much you could do to the ring, because as you tighten the battery tube, the cell tops are looping round on the ring, and where they stop, nobody knows.

SANYO GA's are flat top, but unusual because the tops protrude higher than the wrapping - so they work, as long as the springs can handle the shorter length.

Or, if you simply use protected cells with the button already attached. As I recollect, somewhere above, it was determined that protected GAs with a good protection circuit did not seem to impact the light output vs an unprotected QA. Unless you are trying to squeeze every last lumen out of the light. But if this a concern, there are other batteries with higher amp capabilities you can blob and people can mod the light to try to make the whole power train act like a room temperature superconductor.

yeah i figured it would take some figuring out where the drum stop to make sure the batteries land on a ā€œhillā€ on the contact ring.

But with design ( not the Q8 ) then i am sure they could figure it out and so the resulting flashlight could use any battery.
I am fully aware this are a done deal for the Q8 and thatā€™s just fine i will just do something to the flat tops i have gotten for it.

But in future flashlights ( not least multi cell like the Q8 ) it would be nice if they would work with any type of the particular cells its build for.

But i have been wondering even if the ā€œhillsā€ was smooth for the batteryā€™s to climb easy, the design of flattops and their wrapping might suffer damage over time as the batteries would have to go up and over those ā€œhillsā€ several times before they land in the final resting place.

Also i have been thinking if you should lathe those hills in the contact ring, or you could make do with just punching dents into the ring.