Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

[The_Miller]

To be clear
That lamination, what is that?
The top cover with insulation properties or are the copper traces part of it?

[Phantom1]

Interested

[giorgoskok]

@Texas_Ace

I want to get one for all of my cars, another to leave stock, a few to mod in various ways (thinking an xhp35 hi thrower version and an xhp50.2 high CRI flooder to start out with). Then a few more for gifts.

Sadly not sure I will be able to afford all of that before the GB actually happens.

Well , i thought something similar , but i’ll have to get max 2 or 3 for start

[djozz]

@The Miller

To be clear
That lamination, what is that?
The top cover with insulation properties or are the copper traces part of it?

In my case the copper traces are part of the delamination, which implies that the traces are less well cooled, which really could be an issue at 20A.

[kalkat]

Hi, I’m interested in 1 BLF Q8, is it still possible to be added to the list?
Thanks in advance.

[The_Miller]

Yes welcome to BLF!

[sparkyDK]

@cabfrank

Implants, if you prefer…

It must be onplants, as the addition go on the top of things and not inside.

[kalkat]

@The Miller

Yes welcome to BLF!

Thanks

[dekozn]

@djozz

@The Miller

To be clear
That lamination, what is that?
The top cover with insulation properties or are the copper traces part of it?

In my case the copper traces are part of the delamination, which implies that the traces are less well cooled, which really could be an issue at 20A.

So we’re going to need new mpcb’s? Now that we got a need for 1000+ pieces we might get a better price from other companies. If they offered $8 for 50 pieces how much would it be for 1000+?

[The_Miller]

We asked Thorfire to check with the maker of the MCPCBs and showed the pics.
When we hear back we post here ASAP

[DEL]

@The Miller

To be clear
That lamination, what is that?
The top cover with insulation properties or are the copper traces part of it?

On mine the loose layer at the edge seems to be only the solder mask (but there is no electrical copper in that area). The interior ‘bubble’ closer to the black wire may include copper, but I am not sure.

AFAIK these boards are fabricated by laminating the various layers together. Between each set of layers there is a layer of adhesive and it seems this adhesive failed.

Random google:

[hank]

Edit: Parasitic drain is only 0.14 mA, even with the fairly bright side indicator on.

THANK YOU DEL, I was wondering about that.

I generally lock out lights to get rid of the blue switch glow when I’m not carrying them around.
I assume that’s impossible to do with this light?

[BrianK]

I don’t know if this is what you mean, but in the Narsil reference manual, in the advanced configuration section at the end of the manual, one has the option of disabling the button LED.

The manual, written by Tom I believe, is found here.

[giorgoskok]

@BrianK

I don’t know if this is what you mean, but in the Narsil reference manual, in the advanced configuration one has the option of disabling the button LED.

I was just typing this , it’s the “Locator Led” option

[BrianK]

Hank, I don’t have a huge amount of experience with lights, but the Narsil programming is pretty fantastic. It gives the user the most control of any light that I’ve ever seen. Most programs for lights give far less control or no control at all.

I think you’ll be happy with what you can do with the UI.

[Tom_E]

@hank

Edit: Parasitic drain is only 0.14 mA, even with the fairly bright side indicator on.

THANK YOU DEL, I was wondering about that. I generally lock out lights to get rid of the blue switch glow when I’m not carrying them around. I assume that’s impossible to do with this light?

Couple ways (green glow for the Q8 ) -

• can do a lockout, and when it's locked out, the Ind. is OFF - I thought that made the most sense for most common usage (4X clicks in ramping to lockout, other way in mode sets)
• can also use a quick shortcut to disable the Ind. LED when the light is OFF, in both ramping and mode set operation (ramping: press&hold til the light goes on in moon, quickly release)
• can also disable it completely in the configuration settings

I knew this would be a wanted feature so put in a lot of support for it.

[teacher]

@hank

Edit: Parasitic drain is only 0.14 mA, even with the fairly bright side indicator on.

THANK YOU DEL, I was wondering about that.

I generally lock out lights to get rid of the blue switch glow when I’m not carrying them around.
I assume that’s impossible to do with this light?

Tom E posted the below back in #7351. His numbers are a bit different from what DEL found, but there is certainly little danger of parasitic drain rendering the light useless in time of need…. even if the user is just halfway paying attention to their light every few years. …

@Tom E

I just confirmed the parasitic drain on the round #3 Q8:

• with switch LED on: 135 µA

• with switch LED off: 22 µA

It really was a sanity check to confirm it still is the same as the earlier round 2 prototypes, and it does match exactly.

In switch Lock-Out mode, the switch LED is off. There’s also a quick trick method to turn off the switch LED when the light is OFF:

• from OFF, press&hold til moon mode comes on (or hold longer)

• then quickly release the switch, and quickly click to turn the light OFF

• the switch LED should be off now even with the main LED off

To put it in perspective:

• 22 µA takes 5 years to drain 1,000 mAh, so with 4 3,000 mAh cells, it could last over 60 years, in theory of course

• 135 µA with the switch LED on takes 10 months to drain 1,000 mAh, with 4 3,000 mAh cells, it could last over 10 years

[BrianK]

Only 10-60 years? :smiling_imp: Maybe change a resister to get that number up a bit? (sorry, I couldn’t resist[er])

[tocirahl]

135 µA = 0.135 mA yes? Sounds like DEL and Tom got pretty much the same numbers.

[legan710]

tocirahl, that’s my understanding as well