Nice set, Zozz! I like the pink leds, should get some 
Thanks. I think it’s nice too. Also the green looks nice. More green in real life. Only the clear is mine. The other two is made by request. I also replaced the led board in the Clear to a PD68 design 6 led version. closer to the top so more light can come out.
Thanks. How did you manage to get the lens out?
I pried the bezel out. I think the first tool I used was a razor knife, followed by small screwdrivers. The flashlight was already nonfunctional, but the lens and bezel were not damaged in this process and can be reinstalled. It might impact waterproofing some.
How difficult is it to install a lighted tailcap for a convoy s2 with a qlite driver from mtnelectronics? MY SKILLS are limited to soldering the wires to a mcpcb. Also Where do you get the hardware from? Thanks!
Made a magnetic holder for the DQG UV lighter today to make it detachable like the 47’s atom triple
If you using original qlite firmware with 3/5 modes you can buy the astrolux lighted tailcap switch board from banggood and a white silicone tailcap rubber. Then if your flashlight is older you find an aluminum spacer between switch and rubber button. You can drill a lot hole in it to give a path for the light or you can replace some clear acrilyc washer. No need any soldaring work. Just unscrew the switch retaining ring and replace the internals. The retaining ring is left threaded.
I really got in lighted tailcaps 
Done my wife’s green S2+ tailcap. It already has biscotti Fw so it needed a bleeder resistor on the driver.
I rebuilt my Ti X6 from Rey with XHP-50.2 emitters and a Khatod optic. Even with 22ga leads it pulls 17.22A from the pair of Efest 18350’s for 10,661 lumens!
Edit:
This is the light, back when I first built it with the CUTE-3 optics…
Holy Shit!
How long can you hold it in your hand, before it is too hot?
Battery runtime 3 Minutes?
*blink*
Things like this are:
- Why you’re known as Doctor Frankendale.
- Why I have difficulty refraining from “colorful” language on BLF.
- Why warning labels were invented.
- Why I haven’t given up yet on humanity.
I know TK, those numbers seem kinda low, am waiting on my Aspire “yellow jacket” 18350’s to arrive so I can really put the zing in this light.
Edit: A breakdown of the levels with tail current readings…
0.05A for 29.12 Lumens
0.19A for 155.6
0.44A for 455.4
1.33A for 1283.4
5.46A for 3774.3
11.35A for 6865.5
17.22A for 10660.5
This, on a pair of dark purple metallic looking Efest 18350’s.
I got mine with guppy, would it still work?
I haven’t tried with guppy. I don’t know. Maybe you will need to add a bleeder resistor to driver.
I made something half flashlight related and half car related. I had a faulty SK68 with died driver and led. I gutted the internals and added an old XML T6 LED, and made a circuit for using as an ignition setting strobe light for my car. The circuit in the battery tube. And the potmeter is used to set the flash time. Maybe if flashing enough at a very short setting I will replace it with a resistor. The black connector connecting to car battery, and one cable wrap around the cilynder one ignition cable.
Pretty much the ugliest soldering I have ever done
Five words which shouldn’t go together.
Why not?
Perhaps I don’t understand what it’s used for. This quote from comedian Steven Wright comes to mind:
“I replaced the headlights in my car with strobe lights, so it looks like I’m the only one moving.”
It doesn’t shine out at other people, does it?
Aah! That strobe light is not for driving. It is for repairing and setting engine ignition advance. It has a signal from spark plug number one and the light flashes exactly when that plug fires so when I point it to crankshaft It seems to stand still when engine running. So with a mark on the pulley and some degree marks on engine block I can see the degree of ignition advance need. 
So I’m not going to blind anyone.
That makes a lot more sense.
That really should have come to mind, considering how often I use motion-freezing strobes. I even helped someone time their engine once, using a similar spark strobe method, but the memory was lost in the mist of time.
So, yeah, that’s a great use for an old SK-68.