If you using original qlite firmware with 3/5 modes you can buy the astrolux lighted tailcap switch board from banggood and a white silicone tailcap rubber. Then if your flashlight is older you find an aluminum spacer between switch and rubber button. You can drill a lot hole in it to give a path for the light or you can replace some clear acrilyc washer. No need any soldaring work. Just unscrew the switch retaining ring and replace the internals. The retaining ring is left threaded.
I rebuilt my Ti X6 from Rey with XHP-50.2 emitters and a Khatod optic. Even with 22ga leads it pulls 17.22A from the pair of Efest 18350’s for 10,661 lumens!
Edit:
This is the light, back when I first built it with the CUTE-3 optics…
I made something half flashlight related and half car related. I had a faulty SK68 with died driver and led. I gutted the internals and added an old XML T6 LED, and made a circuit for using as an ignition setting strobe light for my car. The circuit in the battery tube. And the potmeter is used to set the flash time. Maybe if flashing enough at a very short setting I will replace it with a resistor. The black connector connecting to car battery, and one cable wrap around the cilynder one ignition cable.
Pretty much the ugliest soldering I have ever done
Aah! That strobe light is not for driving. It is for repairing and setting engine ignition advance. It has a signal from spark plug number one and the light flashes exactly when that plug fires so when I point it to crankshaft It seems to stand still when engine running. So with a mark on the pulley and some degree marks on engine block I can see the degree of ignition advance need.
So I’m not going to blind anyone.
That really should have come to mind, considering how often I use motion-freezing strobes. I even helped someone time their engine once, using a similar spark strobe method, but the memory was lost in the mist of time.