What did you mod today?

[Wieselflinkpro]

@DB Custom

I rebuilt my Ti X6 from Rey with XHP-50.2 emitters and a Khatod optic. Even with 22ga leads it pulls 17.22A from the pair of Efest 18350’s for 10,661 lumens!

Edit:
This is the light, back when I first built it with the CUTE-3 optics…

Holy Shit!

How long can you hold it in your hand, before it is too hot?

Battery runtime 3 Minutes?

[ToyKeeper]

@DB Custom

I rebuilt my Ti X6 from Rey with XHP-50.2 emitters and a Khatod optic. Even with 22ga leads it pulls 17.22A from the pair of Efest 18350’s for 10,661 lumens!

*blink*

Things like this are:

• Why you’re known as Doctor Frankendale.
• Why I have difficulty refraining from “colorful” language on BLF.
• Why warning labels were invented.
• Why I haven’t given up yet on humanity.

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

I know TK, those numbers seem kinda low, am waiting on my Aspire “yellow jacket” 18350’s to arrive so I can really put the zing in this light.

Edit: A breakdown of the levels with tail current readings…

0.05A for 29.12 Lumens
0.19A for 155.6
0.44A for 455.4
1.33A for 1283.4
5.46A for 3774.3
11.35A for 6865.5
17.22A for 10660.5

This, on a pair of dark purple metallic looking Efest 18350’s.

[MyDangus]

@ZozzV6

@MyDangus

How difficult is it to install a lighted tailcap for a convoy s2 with a qlite driver from mtnelectronics? MY SKILLS are limited to soldering the wires to a mcpcb. Also Where do you get the hardware from? Thanks!

If you using original qlite firmware with 3/5 modes you can buy the astrolux lighted tailcap switch board from banggood and a white silicone tailcap rubber. Then if your flashlight is older you find an aluminum spacer between switch and rubber button. You can drill a lot hole in it to give a path for the light or you can replace some clear acrilyc washer. No need any soldaring work. Just unscrew the switch retaining ring and replace the internals. The retaining ring is left threaded.

I got mine with guppy, would it still work?

[ZozzV6]

I haven’t tried with guppy. I don’t know. Maybe you will need to add a bleeder resistor to driver.

[ZozzV6]

I made something half flashlight related and half car related. I had a faulty SK68 with died driver and led. I gutted the internals and added an old XML T6 LED, and made a circuit for using as an ignition setting strobe light for my car. The circuit in the battery tube. And the potmeter is used to set the flash time. Maybe if flashing enough at a very short setting I will replace it with a resistor. The black connector connecting to car battery, and one cable wrap around the cilynder one ignition cable.


Pretty much the ugliest soldering I have ever done

[ToyKeeper]

@ZozzV6

strobe light for my car

Five words which shouldn’t go together.

[ZozzV6]

Why not?

[ToyKeeper]

@ZozzV6

@ToyKeeper

@ZozzV6

strobe light for my car

Five words which shouldn’t go together.

Why not?

Perhaps I don’t understand what it’s used for. This quote from comedian Steven Wright comes to mind:

“I replaced the headlights in my car with strobe lights, so it looks like I’m the only one moving.”

It doesn’t shine out at other people, does it?

[ZozzV6]

Aah! That strobe light is not for driving. It is for repairing and setting engine ignition advance. It has a signal from spark plug number one and the light flashes exactly when that plug fires so when I point it to crankshaft It seems to stand still when engine running. So with a mark on the pulley and some degree marks on engine block I can see the degree of ignition advance need.
So I’m not going to blind anyone.

[ToyKeeper]

That makes a lot more sense.

That really should have come to mind, considering how often I use motion-freezing strobes. I even helped someone time their engine once, using a similar spark strobe method, but the memory was lost in the mist of time.

So, yeah, that’s a great use for an old SK-68.

[khas]

I always wanted to make a 18650 based XHP35 HI flashligtht so I bought this SecurityIng CREE XM-L2 from Ebay for $7.55 :

The original driver was a 20mm pressfit so I had to widen the pill to make room for the H2-C

XHP35 HI D2 3D CRI80+ on Noctigon

The quality of the SecurityIng is surprisingly good : aluminium reflector, nice anodizing with no flaws and a glass lens (not AR coated though)

[giorgoskok]

Nice mod khas ! Can you share the reflector diameter ?

Thanks

[khas]

The diameter is 34mm and the height is 24mm so it’s not a thrower, here is some pictures for size comparison :

SecurityIng (left) X7 (middle) C8S (right)

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

Zozz, perhaps if you called it a timing light instead of a strobe light it would clear up that confusion?

Nice idea by the way…

[giorgoskok]

@khas

The diameter is 34mm and the height is 24mm so it’s not a thrower

Eagle eye X6 reflector’s diameter is 30mm (true diameter , inside) so this must give some good throw too for it’s size too

[ZozzV6]

@DB Custom

Zozz, perhaps if you called it a timing light instead of a strobe light it would clear up that confusion?

Nice idea by the way…

Yes, that is the word I was looking for! This is not my native language so special tech words don’t come in to my mind.

[CRX]

I changed the tail on the CRX Knucklehead to have a magnetic momentary switch, it now works as a normal twisty still but has the optional setting of activating when stuck to a ferrous surface, switches off again when placed on wood etc again and can also be locked out to prevent this

[Sivy]

Motion-freezing strobes are mentioned above, are there any flashlights available that could do this?

With a operator variable strobe speed?

I work on high speed machinery and we use slow motion cameras and now Iphones that have this facility to diagnose problems.

A motion freezing strobe maybe useful possibly being able to help see into places that bulky cameras cannot.

[khas]

@ CRX that magnetic momentary switch is brilliant