Could they possibly include one with what ever fix they come up with for the battery tube? Thats the big issue for me, I dont want to have to tear into this light and mod it right out of the box
Edit: I didnt notice the “for free” after “AND it can be ordered” lol
1: the springs are too long/stiff, even with one spring removed
2: the threads on the head end of the tube are too short to contact the driver. I think this ones a random flaw though?
The perfect mia, the 18350 soshine batteries come in, and the 30q with teton 18650,the micro usb cover, looks flimsy, but it has not been released, I like it a lot, and it gives a lot of light, the interface is horrible, Of something is an XP-G3, and in the box it puts TEST … sorry for the translator
At least if the driver was easy to remove, it could probably be reflashed. It looks like the Manker version used a BLF-derived driver so this one might have also. But it’s press-fit so it probably requires taking the front off and popping it out from inside.
I don’t think anyone has posted any pictures of the inside of the light yet, so it’s a mystery.
I been thinking about it, and I think I would like them to find a solution that involves a new battery tube, or driver retainer ring. That way I am sure by removing the driver spring, and modifying the tail, you MAY be able to stuff a 18500 in there.
Also, anyone that got one… what is the “survival hammer”? Im guessing just a plate that screws into the tail… pics?
Generally a metal spike which screws into the tail. It’s used for breaking glass, like if you’re stuck in a car and need to quickly get out through the window.
Looking at data on common causes of death though, the effort involved in getting and carrying a glass breaker would probably be better spent on healthy food or exercise or getting permission to telecommute instead of driving.
Working on it getting to the driver now. Not looking good so far. Clearly there's a vertical board, or posts going to a parallel board, in there because of the solder points next to the spring (in pics). There's a resistor right below the center hole of the shelf, aligned with the USB charger I suppose, so there's something horizontal on the top of the pill.
Mine is the 219C version. I measured 6A on a purple EFEST, 10.3A on a VTC6. On the EFEST, it drops like a rock: ~1,000 lumens down to 700 in 30 secs. On the VTC6, it held high output pretty good, then ~15 secs it seemed to go to strobe on it's own. At start it was about 1,500 lumens. After 30 secs, it's hard to turn the light OFF because of that stupid press&hold and the burning sensation on the fingers . It's super hot. The MCPCB is copper, but only bout 1.5 mm thick. I ran it again for 30 secs and could not repeat the strobe mode changing. 1st time I had in the PVC light box when it switched - noticed the readings were erratic and pulled it out - strobe was on.
The 4 mode set does not have turbo. All 4 modes are 50% higher in lumens with the VTC6 over the 18350 - they scale with the cell. 4 mode set has memory, 7 mode set doesn't (pretty sure).
Might pull the switch to see what's going on there.