That certainly looks like a cool clip but it doesn’t do anything to protect the lens or avoid accidental activation. Those are the main reasons I use a holster. I carry a backpack that always has a bunch of lights in it among other things and my lights being in a holster works great for protecting them during travel. The only time I actually have a holster on my belt is when I’m in the woods, hiking, hunting, etc. True EDC for me means being able to comfortably slip into my front pants pocket and carry comfortably all day. For that reason they’re usually AAA sized lights.
I think you could tap a hole into a thick part of the C8 tailcap, or go through the part where a clip attaches, to keep the knob on without adhesive. Or you could maybe tap into the head or heat sink somewhere.
Saber Covertec wheels come in silver to match this C8, but they’re not shaped very well for it. They have a curved back, but the only place the curve really matches the light is on the heat sink fins. For tailcap use, you’d probably want to remove a bit of material for a tighter fit. It would probably be reasonably okay on the bezel though, if you wanted lens-up carry.
:sunglasses:
Really nice! I need to buy one for my C8 and one for the M1!
Those Convoy cases have a terrible synthetic smell. I guess it’s off-gassing or something.
Yeah, these look awesome. The link should be ready in the next day or two. I’ll post it here and add the info to the OP when it’s official.
I bought the BLF X6 when it was launched and has been a stellar performer.
How does this new firmware C8 compare in sheer performance?
I assume it has a larger head and will throw better. What else?
I prefer the Bistro (X6) firmware over the Biscotti (new convoy firmware) it has more features and hidden modes.
You can also toggle forwards and backwards, which is not available in biscotti.
C8 head throw better and dissipate better heat. C8 do not step down timer on high and can work until battery is depleted.
Other than color temperature, what is the difference between the XML U2 1A and XPL HI U6 3A versions?
On gearbest’s website, the XML U2 1A product description mentions some new integrated head for faster cooling. The XPL HI U6 3A version does not mention it…
XPL HI do not have dome and throws better.
Both models has integrated head.
The “integrated head” thing is because the C8 doesn’t use a pill to hold emitter and driver together; it’s all on a shelf. The ad on that is just old news that they didn’t bother to repeat with newer models like the HI or the Clear versions.
Thank you, Tangra and Jack!
Did I just killed my Biscotti C8? Need help.
Today I was playing with my Clear C8, XPL-Hi, got it from Banggood. I tried to get the configuration mode by doing multiple short haft clicks. The blinking was very fast when I want to get #2 mode (no-blink). I end up getting ONLY MOONLIGHT - I believe- that I can’t get out of. I turn off the light then turn ON into moonlight and it just stay there.
Any way I can “reset” this?
Sounds like a first-batch driver. For a proper fix, it should be reflashed. Otherwise, I hear some people have been able to get un-stuck by tapping the button a lot of times, getting back into config mode, and turning memory off.
I did to your advise TK, about 50 shortclicks, tried a few times still no dice. Should I get a new driver, newer version or A6 BLF’s from Richard?
Flashing it isn’t all the hard and only cost about $5 in parts. It’s also good experience in case you ever want to do it again. A new driver will cost you more and a new light definitely way more.
The reports I’ve heard were more than 50 taps… after people messed with it for a few days it started working again. Probably hundreds of taps, and I don’t know what the magic recipe is because I’ve never actually gotten to see one in a failure state.
Regardless, the whole thing can be avoided with reflashing.
I think I’ll order my first Convoy C8. However, I have a question about the tint.
I’d like to try the 7A tint (I don’t have any LED lights that warm). But, is it yellow? I mean, is it like an incandescent light that looks white if it’s the only light source, or will it look yellow?
The warmest LED light I have uses an XM-L2 that measures at 3600K. However, it’s yellow. It doesn’t look like a white light when it’s the only light source. It looks yellow or amber.
I know I’m not getting a high CRI LED in the Convoy. But, does the 7A tint still look nice?
I know I’d be most happy with the 4C tint, but I have plenty of neutral white lights in that range. I wanted to try something different, and was hoping it would look like a really bright incandescent light.
WITL, I have an M1 in 7A, and I can definitely tell you: that baby is warm, and I mean warm. Even when it’s the only light source, it’ll look amber-ish but, IMO, not overbearingly so. It took me a while to get used to it, now I really like it, on low and high brightnesses alike.
If that’s a trouble for you, I’m gonna recommend you stick to 4C. That one has a neutral to very slightly warm tint that does look white when alone in the dark, and while I can’t say the actual number, its CRI to my eyes is very very close to that of my Lumintop Tool CRI (loaded with a Nichia 219B). EDIT: Missed the part where you said you already have plenty of 4C torches.