BLF style 18650 1s thrower( poor mans Olight M2X)

Not yet djozz , waiting for them to arrive( ordered them from Arrow)… i suspect that Luminus are using Cree cores… as you know Cree are selling massively cores only…
Yet, a well driven U4 1A beam profile looks even better than the default Olight M3X one with the same intensity

I had a talk with the seller( a nice chinese woman as it seems) , however she speaks only business english, she understands only about quantity and price per pc and cares not for hosts

P.S
The only Eu led emitter factory using mainly Cree cores too.

Its 40 kms away from me so i visited them many times , they do some OEMS for Bosch, Phillips, even Cree! I wonder how they stand the CN yet they do, at least for now

What bin did you order ?

The only one they have 2 weeks ago is P2-AA-VL, i guess its more or less 8000k or something and thats kinda higher K that i needed actualy but i got only 2 for the test

They claim 1800+ lument at 5 amps, thats more or less like a V6 emitter

I saw lately that KD offers them too

I understand your opinion, but i’m driving the XP-L HI (V3 1A) on 4 Amperes, which makes it a fine light that will have maximum output for a good part of the charge of the battery.
It doesn’t get hot either.
Can you say the same?
Probably not, but that’s not important to you, you want the highest Candela readings from a single 18650 light.
So, to each their own, right?
No need to be snobbish on BLF, that’s what people dislike about CPF, don’t you agree?

17mm driver.
MCPCB depends on how you prefer to build up the light.

Ofc i can! Any U3 or U4 at 4 amps will have at least 20% better candelas, better beam profile and i am 100% sure that it will run cooled than your HI or any other HI emitter in existance.
About dding it, well, i am pretty confident that everybody can do it, if someone cant: msg me , or those lovely blf ppl arround that topic would gladly help at no cost.

PPl dislike CPF cause it was all about Surefire( the one and only), flashlights under 100$ are crap, no reason bannings and other stuff of that ilk

Once again, thats the reality, the BLF way, the cheaper and more reliable / productive way…and its fun.

Exacly as modding that host, yes its ugly and cheap yet the results are great

Actualy yes, on second thoughts there are ppl that demand only 6500k+ …then using HI is reasonable….i did that on my first host actualy, quite forgot about that :smiley:

Well, i have no SureFires or Sparks or other overpriced lights.
But if i want to run a XM or XP LED on 6 Amperes i want to run it on 2x 18650 (or 26650) with a buck driver like FX-30.
For a single cell the VF is too high at those currents, so the party is over after a short while.

But okay, maybe the XP-L Hi V3 1A was not the most exiting choice for this ‘new BLF classic’, but i had one lying around so i put it in there. :slight_smile:

Bedankt voor je reply;) i want the led to be close to the reflector but what i understand is you need to fill in the space with copper or other conducter. Can i just take a 16mm copper plate and drill two holes in it for the cables and put a 26mm mcpcb on that plate(with thermal paste)?

Ok. You know that 16mm mcpcb build guys with drilled reflector from this thread? I checked again with new lux meter (with fc fuction, 5 meters, 5 measurings) and average was 282kcd.

Now I will add 11,4% difference Djozz got in measuring same dd emitter and same budget lux meter as mine + compared to professional light meter and final result is 321kcd (if I calculated right :question: ) for old xpg2s42b in Supwildfire reflector.

That is not bad at all… I finally have piece of mind :innocent:

So yes… 240kcd of new production xpg2s42b that some of you guys got with fet driver now seems realistic to my previous results from aspheric lights(25-30% difference among new vs old one) and if I will do another batch of this Supwildfire(Mitko’s thrower) reflectors I will do them with new s42b. Why? Larger beam and only 3,6A current draw with fet drivers so you can enjoy turbo mode for a longer time…

LI, I just purchased one of these lights with the intention of modding it similar to your 16mm one. In short, you

  1. enlarged the hole of the reflector to fit an entire 16mm mcpcb
  2. stripped a 16mm mcpcb and adhered it to the pill to act as a spacer
  3. adhered the LED on a 16mm mcpcb on top of the spacer

Any other mods? And tips on cleaning the reflector after drilling - compressed air, rinse, etc?

Now just to decide between a new XP-G2 (I don’t have any old ones), a DD XM-L2 U4, or DD XP-L V6. Hmm… decisions, decisions.

Reflector cleaning? You know about those special fluids for cleaning LCD TV? They usually come in set with fine microfiber rag.

So after drilling use compressed air (i have air compressor), after that spray it(5-8 times) with LCD fluid and after that blow with compressed air again. Now it will be dry but now use spray (1 time) with lcd fluid and then use microfiber rag to clean reflector out (put rag and press it firmly into reflector and just do cw or ccw spinning of reflector to that rag). It will be shiner and better than stock. Use same method for main top glass cleaning.

I added thin o ring under upper reflector edge and pill is copper tapped.

I found desired focus with fine pill ccw screwing and with mentioned very thin oring(probably not needed) under reflector upper edge + eye centering method which can be tricky…
I hold light firmly with benchvise (but you could firmly hold it with right hand) while i fiddle with reflector with left hand and when I center the hotspot that it looks perfect to my eyes on high ceiling(low mode of course) than I just hold it on that position and super glue it very thinly on several points of reflector. Fine tipped super glue helps here.
So once when it is locked with supper glue additional press of glass and bezel will tight it up even more. Reflector spinning can’t happen with this method cause reflector is locked with super glue.
You may use your own methods but if you did this way and if you messed something with glue just use hot air gun (short time around each edge) and glue will crack; clean and you can start again.

New XP-G2 should give you around 240 kcd(depends on light meter you have :slight_smile: ) and only 3,6A current draw(new xpg2s42b I have at home) which should be good for FET driver combination.
Longer runtimes in turbo mode are desirable in single 18650 lights right guys?

Edit “stripped a 16mm mcpcb and adhered it to the pill to act as a spacer”
No. I added it for better heat transfer. You don’t actually need that. So it is not a spacer. It is probably even easier to set focus without that. Use thermal glue(artic alumina so no room for mistakes here) with hard press and you should be fine with heat transfer even without additional chunk of copper.

I wonder why you pll make your life harder :slight_smile: Just order those lovely Manker( thanks m8 for the bangood link) MCPCBs and be happy.

luminarium iaculator

We have new breeds of those XPG2s now m8, they are better than the first wave ones, yet they cant compare wiith the good old ones

It all depends Mitko… For someone without lathe or without possibility to hand file or rasp the pill to fitt 26mm mcpcb that method could be harder…

BTW does newer breeds also draw 3,6A of current like first batch of new ones? I know that first batch of new xpg2s42b draws only 3,6A of current on fet driver.

And of course it can’t be better than old one. New one won’t reach 321 kcd… No chance for that… But it will give longer runtimes on turbo. This is single 18650 light after all?

But how do you install the manker mcpcb? Wouldnt it leave a hole under it where normalu the 16mm mcpcb sits?

Hi, New XHP50.2 dedomed, could it be an option? Bin is not equal to xm-l2? Greetings.

Do you mean those with the bigger die but the lower Vf (draws 4.3 - 4.7 amps) ?

Btw , my first supwilfire was great , had the nice black centering ring Mitko mentioned and reflector was super clean , my second one is really disappointing ! Glass has some marks that can’t be cleaned , reflector is full of dirt and centering ring is the unusable one .

I had good results with this centering ring

Friend you did not read a single thing from this thread? :smiley: That’s OK…

You must add thin copper plate into that hole (up to 19mm wide and up to 1,5-3mm thickness) than you must use lathe to take pill top and to make it flat to that copper plate and sand and polish everything up.

Or if you don’t have lathe or mill you can file or rasp it to that plate by hand but you must be very skillful for this (gunsmith skills)

So Junior librarian job (click and you’ll see)

I have another Supwildfire waiting, and a 26mm Maxtoch board. I will clamp the pill into a vice and use a hacksaw to saw the rin off the pill, and then file and sand it flat. No lathe needed. Will make a few pictures when I do that.

In mine used only a big file and sandpaper , didn’t take much time . My current one will be done with the hole in the reflector , since i don’t have any 26/28mm boards for now …