What did you mod today?

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khas
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@ CRX that magnetic momentary switch is brilliant Beer

DB Custom
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Brilliant indeed, man that’s just too cool! I want one! Big Smile

CRX
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Yeah I love this little light, it kinda came about by chance. I wanted the momentary switch which is itself magnetic and held in equilibrium by the surrounding magnet, I just happened to put the light down on that steel box cover when testing it and LOL

ToyKeeper
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CRX wrote:
I changed the tail on the CRX Knucklehead to have a magnetic momentary switch…

You make some very interesting and unusual lights. I bet the Knucklehead would be a popular item if you could make a bunch of them.

ToyKeeper
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Sivy wrote:
Motion-freezing strobes are mentioned above, are there any flashlights available that could do this?

With a operator variable strobe speed?

I work on high speed machinery and we use slow motion cameras and now Iphones that have this facility to diagnose problems.

A motion freezing strobe maybe useful possibly being able to help see into places that bulky cameras cannot.

I have motion-freezing strobes in several of my firmwares, either with fixed timing or automatic variable. I haven’t done a smoothly-adjustable one yet, but you can get that in tterev3’s MELD if you ask nicely. I got him to drop the flash time to 2 ms, though I’ve since found that’s too long for good motion stopping. I generally use 1 ms for slow strobes or 0.3ms for fast strobes.

Although I’ve been meaning to make an e-switch UI with operator-adjustable strobes, I’ve instead demonstrated my expertise in procrastination. It doesn’t help that almost nobody except me (and now you) seems to be interested.

So… maybe someday? Wink

alphazeta
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It’s a rainy day & the other day a cu BLF A01 (Old Lumens Version) came with NMM Sick Being as the light is essentially useless to me I decided to transplant it’s Nichia 219B (feels like in the 5000k tint?) into an old light which severely needed updating.

So just a simple emitter swap can do wonders…
My 4 sevens ti 1AA Quark originally had a XPG NW R4(or R5) put in when those emitters 1st came out & now it gets to crawl out of it’s drawer to be of some use.

Edness
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Got my 3rd S41S and reflowed 219C D320 to it. Too hot to hold in 15 seconds and pulls just over 18A.

Also replaced the qlite spring on the H17f for my convoy s2+ triple with a brass button. Now that pulls 13 amps. (XP-L HI V3 3C). Pulled about 10a with qlite spring.

khas
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Last two small projects before the summer vacation :

Re-flowed a new LED in my fresh from the mail box Jetbeam JET- µ, the LED was a gift included in a recent flashlight purchase, Thanks djozz Beer

Eagle Eye X6 with a Luminus SST-40 LED and BLF A6 driver :


X6 SST-40 6500K (left) C8S XHP50.2 3A (right)

The SST-40 is pulling 8,58A from a fully charged VTC6. I like the new emitter from Luminus but the tint is to cold for me. The drivers 45 sec step-down is about right it does get hot very fast.

EasyB
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Thanks for the reports on the SST-40, khas. I’m excited about the possibilities of this emitter and have ordered a couple from KD. Do you have any other quantitative output info? Like candela of the X6 with SST-40, or ceiling bounce numbers comparing it to an XPL direct drive?

DB Custom
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I’d not heard of the SST-40, so yes indeed thanks for the heads up and in one of my favorite lights no less! Big Smile

khas
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The official specs states 1608 lm @ 5A with a 85C junction temperature for the N4 bin, I don’t have any reliable way to test output, but I know djozz is working on a test of the SST-40 so I will leaves the numbers to him.

I had the SST-40 in a Thorfire C8S before and got 8,09A at the LED with a 20 awg wire loop and a clamp meter.

EDIT : Test by djozz here

18sixfifty
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I modded a J20 last night. XHP50's FET driver. Used the wires it came with and I'm running 3x26650 Imren IMR's, supposed to be "60amps" IDK for sure but they are high drain IMR. All emitters parallel. It's pretty bright.

 

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

ToyKeeper
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18sixfifty wrote:
It’s pretty bright.

I see you’ve mastered the art of the understatement.

Maybe next you can master the art of the beamshot? Big Smile

Here’s a preview of how that thing looks indoors:

goshdogit
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Here’s a preview of how that thing looks indoors:

Hilarious! I waited a few moments for the picture to load before I realized what you did… Big Smile
CRX
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ToyKeeper wrote:
You make some very interesting and unusual lights. I bet the Knucklehead would be a popular item if you could make a bunch of them.

Working on it, yesterday, knucklehead II Smile
800lm 10250 powered this time

djozz
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I will not wait for the battery tube replacement of the Astrolux S42 that came in today, so I created enough space with the current battery tube for an Aspire 18350 battery to fit: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1142952#comment-1142952

Tom E
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Finally was able to crack open a few stubborn lights with thread lock on them. The pine board method worked great. Lights I opened were:

  • original glued bezel Astrolux S41
  • Nitecore MH20 bezel
  • Lumintop SD26 bezel
  • 3 K2's, FandyFire and SolarStorm

 

Some with pics, not all. SD26:

Older FandyFire K2:

The full K2 family:

Those springs were a source of lots of lost amps on a DD FET mod.

Weapons of choice. I got two of those Husky strap wrenches, think I got them online a while back. The board is 2 1/2" by 3/4" pine. The hole is 1 1/2" for the SD26 and K2 tailcaps. The clamps are pretty decent ones,  5" and 6" size. You really have to crank down on the C clamps, otherwise the light will still rotate in the hole. Doing the 3 K2 tailcaps, it got harder and harder. First two were done with the battery tube in the hole and the strap wrench on the tailcap. Last one was slipping bad, so put the knurled tailcap in the hole and strap wrench on the battery tube.

The S41 used a smaller hole, than the MH20 slightly larger - same technique but different board/hole from what's shown below. I knew these husky strap wrenches were good, but was always really hard to use two simultaneously. By using the clamped board, it gives you a rock slid foundation you can easily hold, then the strap wrench can produce a huge amount of torque. For the old FF K2, a couple of years ago I tried everything - strap wrenches, torch, even boiled it in a bag for 30 mins - nothing worked. The main reason to get the K2 tailcap off is to add a bypass wire on that super long spring - way too much lose's there.

This went not so bad, but it's all in the prep work. If I were to do it again, I'd use a slightly wider board at 3.5" or so. The hole has to be a pretty tight fit as well, and you use the cut slits as compression points. The great thing about this method is no damage whatsoever. At first I thought there were marks, but then easily rubbed off with isop. alcohol. Also the trick to the strap wrench is make the loop loose, then when you start twisting, that metal swivel flips over and creates incredible pressure while pinching the strap, so no need to hold it tight. Only thing I should have used was some steel pipe to help tightening those C clamps, and might have helped over the handle of the strap wrench as well.

 

Jensen567
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Copying from the buck and Boost thread, its been quite a fun week. Finished up 3 builds today, all using the new KD H1-A Boost driver in places it shouldn’t fit. Well, I made it fit. I like this driver a lot, it allows me to put 2S+ emitters in more places just using a single cell, with around 90% efficiency to boot.

1st up is the light engine I made for the new Desert Tan S2+ when I get it. MTG2 4000K at 3.5A. In a Green S2+ for a test bed. Really cool to have an MTG2 on a single cell in an S2+. Pill is a stock pill with the driver pocket machined out. Reflector is stock reflector with the emitter hole enlarged by hand with a hobby knife.

Next up is my new XHP50.2 Convoy C8. Running an H2 30G 80+ CRI emitter at 3.5 amps. I love this light, super bright and even on full blast the C8 host can take the heat. I had to machine out the driver pocket and file the driver ground ring to the vias, but the stock retaining ring allows a near 20mm driver in the hole.


Finally we have a Blue S2+ triple with 3x XP-G3 S4 E1 (6500K) emitters in series, running about 1.2A. This light is a gift for my fiance, so I chose a current that can be run on high continuously without overheating so she can set it down and use it for area lighting without worry. She also likes cold white, hence the 6500K emitters. The triple series setup works fantastic, and I really like the mode spacing on this driver. Low really is nice and low, while high is crazy bright for only 1.2A. Copper pill is one from kiriba-ru which I modified for 20mm driver. Very nice pill.

MRsDNF
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Nice mods Jensen567. Your fiance is a lucky girl.
Thanks for the tips and pictures Tom. They will come in handy.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Thanks for explaining the pine board method Tom E. If I run across this issue, I would stick the boards into a vice since I only have 1 c-clamp. Those springs do look pretty cool despite the loss of current.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

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Jensen567 wrote:
Copying from the buck and Boost thread, its been quite a fun week. Finished up 3 builds today, all using the new KD H1-A Boost driver in places it shouldn’t fit. Well, I made it fit. I like this driver a lot, it allows me to put 2S+ emitters in more places just using a single cell, with around 90% efficiency to boot.


How did you mad it fit? Did you reduced the diameter a bit or did you only soldered it to the pill?
Hoy did you do it on the convoy C8? There is only room for 17mm driver, isn’t it?
kiriba-ru
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Wieselflinkpro wrote:
Jensen567 wrote:
Copying from the buck and Boost thread, its been quite a fun week. Finished up 3 builds today, all using the new KD H1-A Boost driver in places it shouldn’t fit. Well, I made it fit. I like this driver a lot, it allows me to put 2S+ emitters in more places just using a single cell, with around 90% efficiency to boot.


How did you mad it fit? Did you reduced the diameter a bit or did you only soldered it to the pill?
Hoy did you do it on the convoy C8? There is only room for 17mm driver, isn’t it?

I was sceptical about this idea, but he done it well. He bored driver place and underdriver place.
https://m.imgur.com/ztpZLem
Jensen567
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Yes, for the S2+ pills I bored out the driver pocket to fit the 20mm board, then soldered it to the pill. For the C8 I was lucky that the stock retaining ring is almost 20mm, so I expanded the pocket, then shaved the edges of the driver until it just cleared so I could use the retaining ring. If that didn’t work it would have been harder, since I can’t just solder it to aluminum.

Slayer1
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This is my first mod today on a Convoy L6 today.

Decided to follow through with my second mod on my F13 immediately after.

Cree XP-L HI V3 1B led on a Noctigon XP32 mcpcb with an MTN 22mm FET driver with a copper spacer and optics from kiriba-ru.
Used Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste on the mcpcb and glued the spacer with some heatsink plaster. Tired







It’s not a clean professional work and my photos need improving too.
But both the flashlight works and I am really happy.
And I will get better at my soldering skills and hopefully will improve with time.

Jensen567
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Looks good to me! Everyone has to start somewhere with soldering, and the best way to get better is just to keep doing it.

EasyB
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18sixfifty wrote:

I modded a J20 last night. XHP50’s FET driver. Used the wires it came with and I’m running 3×26650 Imren IMR’s, supposed to be “60amps” IDK for sure but they are high drain IMR. All emitters parallel. It’s pretty bright.


 



2s emitters with 3s cells? Nice. I bet it pulls 45A or so.

18sixfifty
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EasyB wrote:
18sixfifty wrote:

I modded a J20 last night. XHP50’s FET driver. Used the wires it came with and I’m running 3×26650 Imren IMR’s, supposed to be “60amps” IDK for sure but they are high drain IMR. All emitters parallel. It’s pretty bright.


 



2s emitters with 3s cells? Nice. I bet it pulls 45A or so.

Yep 2s emitters with 3s cells. I was a little hesitant to do it this way so I started with longer wires 12 gauge I think. Crossed my fingers and tested it first without the tailcap. Nothing fried so I took it out and played with it. Not a problem at all and ran it down to where the batteries needed charging. Last night I shortened half the wires and no problem, then I shortened them all down to really short and still fine. I might try 10 gauge wires next and see how that goes. Although I think I might already be where the batteries are maxing themselves out. The batteries were getting hot already so it’s probably about where it’s getting iffy to push it more. It’s interesting for sure. The high is about as bright as any of the super flooders I’ve made in the past. Then the Turbo kicks it up to whole other level.

I’ve got an 18xXML / 5×32650 light that I might try next. Maybe see what five batteries into 9 sets of 2x XHP-50’s does. I’d have to sell some more stuff to finance it though. So it might be a while.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

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Dedomed a 219C 4000K today, using “wasbenzine”. (gas dedome)
Results are pretty satisfactory: Dome popped of when I lifted the whole thing pincing the dome, no phosphor was taken and the die is silicone free!
Not the cleanest around the die, but hey, who cares? Silly
Tint seems to have gone warmer, but not by a lot and not as yellow
Did I say this was my first dedome? Big Smile

(sorry for awful cellphone pic)

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Nice work Jensen!
That driver is seriously interesting, your post made me think i have to buy it and mod something which is held impossible before

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Today I added green and cool white mixed lighted tailcap to my S41

And got a really used Nitecore P12 for repair. It has broken solderswhich peeled off the pads, some water ingress signs, broken capacitor, so it’s pretty much dead. It was really hard to loosen the glued bezel. It has some scratches before but when the pipe wrench cutted through the bike inner tube It made some big marks.
So they will buy a new one and I got the whole light to do with it what I want. Maybe I try to resurrect the driver. But if not I will put in something with Narsil maybe.


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