Well, i have no SureFires or Sparks or other overpriced lights.
But if i want to run a XM or XP LED on 6 Amperes i want to run it on 2x 18650 (or 26650) with a buck driver like FX-30.
For a single cell the VF is too high at those currents, so the party is over after a short while.
But okay, maybe the XP-L Hi V3 1A was not the most exiting choice for this ānew BLF classicā, but i had one lying around so i put it in there. 
Bedankt voor je reply;) i want the led to be close to the reflector but what i understand is you need to fill in the space with copper or other conducter. Can i just take a 16mm copper plate and drill two holes in it for the cables and put a 26mm mcpcb on that plate(with thermal paste)?
Ok. You know that 16mm mcpcb build guys with drilled reflector from this thread? I checked again with new lux meter (with fc fuction, 5 meters, 5 measurings) and average was 282kcd.
Now I will add 11,4% difference Djozz got in measuring same dd emitter and same budget lux meter as mine + compared to professional light meter and final result is 321kcd (if I calculated right :question: ) for old xpg2s42b in Supwildfire reflector.
That is not bad at allā¦ I finally have piece of mind :innocent:
So yesā¦ 240kcd of new production xpg2s42b that some of you guys got with fet driver now seems realistic to my previous results from aspheric lights(25-30% difference among new vs old one) and if I will do another batch of this Supwildfire(Mitkoās thrower) reflectors I will do them with new s42b. Why? Larger beam and only 3,6A current draw with fet drivers so you can enjoy turbo mode for a longer timeā¦
LI, I just purchased one of these lights with the intention of modding it similar to your 16mm one. In short, you
Any other mods? And tips on cleaning the reflector after drilling - compressed air, rinse, etc?
Now just to decide between a new XP-G2 (I donāt have any old ones), a DD XM-L2 U4, or DD XP-L V6. Hmmā¦ decisions, decisions.
Reflector cleaning? You know about those special fluids for cleaning LCD TV? They usually come in set with fine microfiber rag.
So after drilling use compressed air (i have air compressor), after that spray it(5-8 times) with LCD fluid and after that blow with compressed air again. Now it will be dry but now use spray (1 time) with lcd fluid and then use microfiber rag to clean reflector out (put rag and press it firmly into reflector and just do cw or ccw spinning of reflector to that rag). It will be shiner and better than stock. Use same method for main top glass cleaning.
I added thin o ring under upper reflector edge and pill is copper tapped.
I found desired focus with fine pill ccw screwing and with mentioned very thin oring(probably not needed) under reflector upper edge + eye centering method which can be trickyā¦
I hold light firmly with benchvise (but you could firmly hold it with right hand) while i fiddle with reflector with left hand and when I center the hotspot that it looks perfect to my eyes on high ceiling(low mode of course) than I just hold it on that position and super glue it very thinly on several points of reflector. Fine tipped super glue helps here.
So once when it is locked with supper glue additional press of glass and bezel will tight it up even more. Reflector spinning canāt happen with this method cause reflector is locked with super glue.
You may use your own methods but if you did this way and if you messed something with glue just use hot air gun (short time around each edge) and glue will crack; clean and you can start again.
New XP-G2 should give you around 240 kcd(depends on light meter you have ) and only 3,6A current draw(new xpg2s42b I have at home) which should be good for FET driver combination.
Longer runtimes in turbo mode are desirable in single 18650 lights right guys?
Edit āstripped a 16mm mcpcb and adhered it to the pill to act as a spacerā
No. I added it for better heat transfer. You donāt actually need that. So it is not a spacer. It is probably even easier to set focus without that. Use thermal glue(artic alumina so no room for mistakes here) with hard press and you should be fine with heat transfer even without additional chunk of copper.
I wonder why you pll make your life harder Just order those lovely Manker( thanks m8 for the bangood link) MCPCBs and be happy.
luminarium iaculator
We have new breeds of those XPG2s now m8, they are better than the first wave ones, yet they cant compare wiith the good old ones
It all depends Mitkoā¦ For someone without lathe or without possibility to hand file or rasp the pill to fitt 26mm mcpcb that method could be harderā¦
BTW does newer breeds also draw 3,6A of current like first batch of new ones? I know that first batch of new xpg2s42b draws only 3,6A of current on fet driver.
And of course it canāt be better than old one. New one wonāt reach 321 kcdā¦ No chance for thatā¦ But it will give longer runtimes on turbo. This is single 18650 light after all?
But how do you install the manker mcpcb? Wouldnt it leave a hole under it where normalu the 16mm mcpcb sits?
Hi, New XHP50.2 dedomed, could it be an option? Bin is not equal to xm-l2? Greetings.
Do you mean those with the bigger die but the lower Vf (draws 4.3 - 4.7 amps) ?
Btw , my first supwilfire was great , had the nice black centering ring Mitko mentioned and reflector was super clean , my second one is really disappointing ! Glass has some marks that canāt be cleaned , reflector is full of dirt and centering ring is the unusable one .
I had good results with this centering ring
Friend you did not read a single thing from this thread? 
Thatās OKā¦
You must add thin copper plate into that hole (up to 19mm wide and up to 1,5-3mm thickness) than you must use lathe to take pill top and to make it flat to that copper plate and sand and polish everything up.
Or if you donāt have lathe or mill you can file or rasp it to that plate by hand but you must be very skillful for this (gunsmith skills)
So Junior librarian job (click and youāll see)
I have another Supwildfire waiting, and a 26mm Maxtoch board. I will clamp the pill into a vice and use a hacksaw to saw the rin off the pill, and then file and sand it flat. No lathe needed. Will make a few pictures when I do that.
In mine used only a big file and sandpaper , didnāt take much time . My current one will be done with the hole in the reflector , since i donāt have any 26/28mm boards for now ā¦
Lathe is most accurate method. Hacksaw? That is braveā¦ Very thin hacksaw blade could do it I guessā¦
I see you got one with dirty reflector and lens. Use my above mentioned method for cleaning that out. It should work.
I did read it :nerd_face: i think i got things mixed up because not everyone is using the same methodā¦ and i dont have a lathe but maybe with a file and a whetstone :partying_face:
Tried cleaning glass but it wonāt clean .
Not touching reflector with something , lesson learned :disappointed: Even microfiber cloth leaves micro scratches
[quote=giorgoskok]
I disagree. Some guys are cleaning camera sensors and lenses with same stuff(you can use very fine microfiber cloth if you are concerned) and I donāt even have to tell how sensitive stuff is that.
But I respect your opinion. I guess even dirty reflector will throw. Reflector from Supfire factory really comes fingerprinted and dirty from factory. They use slap and play assembling method.
I could not resist anymore so i ordered one to test this thing out, my plan is fet driven xml-2 on maxtooch board, i have no use for that led-board combo so i thought i give a chance to this light, it should be fun modding it
I just need to find cheap cooper board so i can make spacer from it, those noctigon boards that i have all around me are too good to chop them.