making 3. Batch Texas Avenger "TA" / Bistro HD OTSM drivers fully tested running Bistro or Narsil, Clicky or E-switch, SIR800

[KawiBoy1428]

@Jensen567

I’ve done that to two 50.2s now. Not sure about the 70.2 as the P2 1A I have used I have been nice to. The M2 30G 80+ CRI is going to go in the L6.

On the 50.2 it seems like a few times going blue is about all it can handle before it starts going blue using lower currents. Then half the emitter goes out.

Yep burned up a few of them 50.2’s, but the 70.2 is hanging tuff at up to 20 amps, Ive since run the older VTC5’s in the Lumintop, just a hint of blue for a short burst, assuming battery sag is kicking in, been working fine for the last 2 weeks, all 4 dies still looking good, 20 amps or less would be my guess for max current draw, if you want it to live some, my KP’s were giving up like 15 amps in the X6 Hunter, so with their high capacity they would be the best all around battery, again just a guess….

Worse case scenario if I toast them, I’ll re-flow the 4-70.2’s I have as spares and use normal batteries!

The 70.2 is just Insanely Bright! :+1:

[Jensen567]

Yeah I have a P2 1A in a JKK36 host running only 4 to 5 amps and even that is almost as bright as my M2 30G XHP70 on DD. I also made a mistake, L6 is getting M4 30G 80+ 70.2, 1 bin brighter than my current 70.

[solRNY]

@JasonWW

@solRNY

@solRNY

thanks lexel for the drivers, they works great.
my S70 draws 9.5A TC 4.06V keeppower
my L6 draws 8.3A TC 4.13V keeppower

both L6 and S70 maxed out the dmm limit of 10A at TC with fresh LiitoKala

Measuring with a dmm isn’t going to give you the best accuracy. A clamp meter would be better. The L6 with Liitokalas should be about 12 amps.

just received a ut210e clamp meter today,
measuring with the clamp meter at TC with fresh LiitoKal
S70 draws 12A
L6 draws 10.5A

[JasonWW]

@solRNY

just received a ut210e clamp meter today,
measuring with the clamp meter at TC with fresh LiitoKala
S70 draws 12A
L6 draws 10.5A

It’s odd they are so different.
Do they both have the same driver?

[solRNY]

@JasonWW

It’s odd they are so different.
Do they both have the same driver?

yes, same driver.

[JasonWW]

@solRNY

@JasonWW

It’s odd they are so different.
Do they both have the same driver?

yes, same driver.

Hmm, same batteries?
Same positive wire size?
Maybe someone could give a reason?

[solRNY]

@JasonWW

@solRNY

@JasonWW

It’s odd they are so different.
Do they both have the same driver?

yes, same driver.

Hmm, same batteries?
Same positive wire size?
Maybe someone could give a reason?

ah ha! the wire size to the S70 is 18awg, and the wire size to the L6 is 22awg. remembering that i tried to solder 18awg on the L6 but couldn’t do it as it kept shorting with the reflector.

[JasonWW]

@solRNY

@JasonWW

@solRNY

@JasonWW

It’s odd they are so different.
Do they both have the same driver?

yes, same driver.

Hmm, same batteries?
Same positive wire size?
Maybe someone could give a reason?

ah ha! the wire size to the S70 is 18awg, and the wire size to the L6 is 22awg. remembering that i tried to solder 18awg on the L6 but couldn’t do it as it kept shorting with the reflector.

Oh cool! It’s good to know that 22ga can cut exactly 1.5 amp over 18ga.

A trick you can do with the wire is get the solder liquid and then remove the iron and quickly press down on the joint with something flat and metal. It will flatten the joint so that only the insulation will touch the reflector.

[Lexel]

Another solution is to use a Dremel and remove some material on the reflectors base
And use some tape to protect the reflector from dust

[Jensen567]

Installed my 30mm driver in the L6 today with an XHP70.2 M4 30G 80+ CRI, and a lighted momentary switch. Loving narsil. I did have to file the driver edges slightly to get it to fit the driver pocket, but no big deal. 18ga wire. Haven’t measured current yet, but its super bright. The L6 reflector also blends the tint of these new emitters well, I dont have much color shift at all in the beam.

[Lj11 (Lj-_-)]

Hi Lexel, do you have any 30mm with narsil left?
I would like one for the L6 with LVP if possible, Thanks

[Lexel]

I can build most of the driver, but I got no more FETs left

[Lj11 (Lj-_-)]

That’s fine. I could get the FET’s and solder them myself.

Would that still be OK? If not, no worries. :+1:

Btw where do you get your FET’s from?

[solRNY]

@JasonWW

@solRNY

@JasonWW

@solRNY

@JasonWW

It’s odd they are so different.
Do they both have the same driver?

yes, same driver.

Hmm, same batteries?
Same positive wire size?
Maybe someone could give a reason?

ah ha! the wire size to the S70 is 18awg, and the wire size to the L6 is 22awg. remembering that i tried to solder 18awg on the L6 but couldn’t do it as it kept shorting with the reflector.

Oh cool! It’s good to know that 22ga can cut exactly 1.5 amp over 18ga.

A trick you can do with the wire is get the solder liquid and then remove the iron and quickly press down on the joint with something flat and metal. It will flatten the joint so that only the insulation will touch the reflector.

i was thinking the same, so i swap out the 22awg wires for 16awg wires, to my surprise the current only increased by .5A and measures 11A at the TC.

[JasonWW]

That’s strange. Still, it’s plenty of light, though! Lol

I usually adjust my light to just below max to get better run time and less heat.

[tekwyzrd]

@Lexel

Another solution is to use a Dremel and remove some material on the reflectors base
And use some tape to protect the reflector from dust

or pieces of copper sheet or flattened strips of copper water line.

[Lj11 (Lj-_-)]

@Lexel

I can build most of the driver, but I got no more FETs left

Or I could build the driver myself if you haven’t got the time, so long as you could flash the MCU?

[Lexel]

NarsilM flashed for 1S or 2S without temperature calibration is not a problem

[Lj11 (Lj-_-)]

@Lexel

NarsilM flashed for 1S or 2S without temperature calibration is not a problem

Is that built on a board or MCU on it’s own?
Either way is fine, if just MCU on it’s own I’d still need a 30mm board and then I could get the rest of the parts myself, unless you would supply the rest as a kit? I don’t mind either way so long as I’m not messing you about, it’s very decent of you to even offer this

[solRNY]

so i decided to change out the 18awg for 16awg on my s70, took me a while to figure out how not to short thru the reflector. now it draws 12.5A - 12.9A at the TC with fresh Littokala. but the wried thing is i think the color is shifting from bluish on turbo to yellowish at lower setting. don’t think i recall this before.