What did you mod today?

Yep 2s emitters with 3s cells. I was a little hesitant to do it this way so I started with longer wires 12 gauge I think. Crossed my fingers and tested it first without the tailcap. Nothing fried so I took it out and played with it. Not a problem at all and ran it down to where the batteries needed charging. Last night I shortened half the wires and no problem, then I shortened them all down to really short and still fine. I might try 10 gauge wires next and see how that goes. Although I think I might already be where the batteries are maxing themselves out. The batteries were getting hot already so it’s probably about where it’s getting iffy to push it more. It’s interesting for sure. The high is about as bright as any of the super flooders I’ve made in the past. Then the Turbo kicks it up to whole other level.

I’ve got an 18xXML / 5x32650 light that I might try next. Maybe see what five batteries into 9 sets of 2x XHP-50’s does. I’d have to sell some more stuff to finance it though. So it might be a while.

Dedomed a 219C 4000K today, using “wasbenzine”. (gas dedome)
Results are pretty satisfactory: Dome popped of when I lifted the whole thing pincing the dome, no phosphor was taken and the die is silicone free!
Not the cleanest around the die, but hey, who cares? :stuck_out_tongue:
Tint seems to have gone warmer, but not by a lot and not as yellow
Did I say this was my first dedome? :smiley:

(sorry for awful cellphone pic)

Nice work Jensen!
That driver is seriously interesting, your post made me think i have to buy it and mod something which is held impossible before

Today I added green and cool white mixed lighted tailcap to my S41

And got a really used Nitecore P12 for repair. It has broken solderswhich peeled off the pads, some water ingress signs, broken capacitor, so it’s pretty much dead. It was really hard to loosen the glued bezel. It has some scratches before but when the pipe wrench cutted through the bike inner tube It made some big marks.
So they will buy a new one and I got the whole light to do with it what I want. Maybe I try to resurrect the driver. But if not I will put in something with Narsil maybe.


Good job on the dedome doubleone44!

fixed up an eveready “junior captain” 1aa for a neighbor kid.
since i didnt have any #112 bulbs and the family already uses 18650 stuff i put a 5mm ebay hi cri and 4.7 ohm resistor in an empty base.
got the switch stuff cleaned up and working right and dropped the conversion bulb and a 14500 li-ion in it.
probably 10x the light of the original bulb and 100% reversible.
light was his grandfathers and one of the few surviving items he has from him.
another restomod.

Modded some more pipes

A JAXMAN E2L. This is my first triple flashlight and in the end I couldn’t be more impressed. I knew I had to make the 20mm Nichia 80+ CRI LED MCPCB a bit smaller and bore out the shelf hole for the 22 AWG wires, but my challenge was with the BLF double spring lighted switch that I got from Banggood. When I put everything together, the Mountain Electronics FET + 7135 driver with Bistro turned into next mode memory. I then experimented with different bleeder resistors and found the proper ohms that worked for the flashlight. I also added solder to the outer ring of the driver since it was too thin to be secured by the retaining ring. In turbo the flashlight is crazy bright and heats up very fast, which is exactly what I was shooting for! The moonlight mode is also great.

Some more “German” details and pics: Skyray King SRK mit 3 x Nichia 144A sm453 R9050 | Taschenlampen Forum

And translatet from google: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=de&tl=en&js=y&prev=\_t&hl=de&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.taschenlampen-forum.de%2Fthreads%2Fskyray-king-srk-mit-3-x-nichia-144a-sm453-r9050.57036%2F&edit-text=&act=url

Nice Jensen, that little green light with the big MT-G2 is the kind of style that drew me into this in the first place. I need to build an AC headboard light with like 3 to 5 of these… the colored Convoy heads work beautifully and a mix of spot and wide optiocs should do to make it easy for some late night reading or add to a little more boradly lit up fun, all run off a wall wart. Thanks for sparking some ideas, enjoy your lights…

I made a PVC pipe integrating tube. It is almost done. I call it Lumensnake :slight_smile:
I need some foam ringr around lights. Some platform to fix it on. And install the ring around the sensor.





All pictures here

Nice PVC tube. I’ve been thinking about making an integrating system to replace my ceiling bounce tests. That tube geometry seems like it would work well for integrating different beam shapes.

Thanks! Today or tomorrow I will finish it and try some lights and choose one for calibration.

neutral fan:perfect work.probably its not so bright as a triple xplhi leds right?
i was thinking,nichia triple version will be not so hot…at least not so fast.
its with 45 seconds turbo timer?

Some hunters order from me two Convoy C8s. I need to put in two 7135s in each. And One of them I got from gearbest came with chipped lens edge. I got 100 points from them which I was happy about because I have stock lens at home.

But when I pulled the driver out from that same light, some aluminum machining residue falled out. It was all in the head behind the driver and on the driver.
Im happy that I not used much just tried it out and not caused any shorts.

Hi vresto, I’m not sure about the brightness compared to XP-L HI LEDs, but it’s extremely bright for such a small flashlight. And with Nichia 80+ CRI LEDs, it also has awesome tint. The high mode just before turbo is very bright and useful for long periods of time. On turbo with a Samsung INR18650-30Q battery, it gets too hot to hold at the head after about a minute. I’ve set the thermal calibration at around 50 degrees Celsius so it does not self implode. If I use a Panasonic NCR18650B battery it does not heat up as fast in turbo. I like that this is my first flashlight where the battery may be too much for the flashlight versus the other way around.

I’ve been running into the aluminum shavings in a lot of C8s lately…mainly where the screw holes are tapped.

Received my XHP70.2 P2 1A 6000K from KD. Took some time to mod my Acebeam K60 as below:

Original XHP70 (shaved), the donut is worse than without shaving. Lumens dropped about 3%.

Took out the DTP from K60.

The back of DTP is rough.

Desoldered stock shaved XHP70.

Re-soldered XHP70.2

Cleaned up the existing thermal paste.

Finally :slight_smile:

Glad that there is totally no donut, even at far distance (which previously is quite noticeable).
Lumens increased by nearly 10% (ceiling bound: shaved XHP70 - 546 lux increased to 599 lux- XHP70.2 P2 1A 6000K, measured 10 seconds after switching on). By ratio to Maxtoch 2X - 1450 lm (168 lux), the maximum new XHP70.2 in K60 is about 5300 lm (618 lux).

Nice work CWK, nice photo’s as well! That new 70.2 looks perfectly at home there. I’ll have to try some of these, are they becoming more readily available?

Modded my second Supwildfire thrower today, with a bistro driver (it is not the perfect driver for this but it is what I had) and a dedomed XP-G2 S3 3D (old type). Succes, 322 kcd! :slight_smile: Some mod pictures here.