Texas_Ace Review: Sofirn SP32 E-swtich XP-L2 V6, great light in stock form, the dual switch SP31 is better.

The switch is pretty flush with the body and isn’t raised up much, so maybe that’s it.

Possible, I can clearly feel the click, it just doesn’t register it maybe 1 out of 10 times. Like I said, not a big deal but something I noticed.

Thanks for the review Texas_Ace! That e-switch issue is a bum deal. I hope you get it worked out! I prefer side switch lights personally (if they’re working right) over tail switch. Yes, the side switch can take some time to find. But, I’m not expecting to ever really need to find it quickly. I’ve never had a dual switch light. It might be the best of both worlds and I’m just missing out! :stuck_out_tongue:

The e-switch works fine 90% of the time, just misses a press every now and then. If I press a bit harder it works 100% of the time. Not really a big deal, just something worth mentioning in the interest of full disclosure.

When I do use my EDC light I can easily have to use it 10-20 times that night, I get annoyed if a few seconds are added each time I use it trying to find the button, just not the most efficient way of doing it but I get annoyed by things like that easier then most.

Dual switch is great, I love it on the few lights I own with it, which is why I was looking forward to reviewing an EDC sized dual switch.

Does the tailcap thread lego with any other lights? If so, you could swap it to get a tail switch.

I asked about this and tried it by unscrewing the cap to turn it off but the UI is different on the SP31 vs SP32. So on this light it is useless to have the tailswitch sadly.

It does actually lego with my S8 / S2 tailcaps though.

Well, I guess you could go full mod, changing the driver as well, and the LED if you so choose. If it were me, I’d just use the side switch and be happy or give it to someone who would. :wink:

I am gonna try it out as is for a little while but knowing me I will get tired of it at some point and risk damage to get it apart for some real power. Although hopefully the stock driver can be resistor modded for more power, I really like the idea of a good buck driver in a tube light. This driver held an amazingly consistent output, it appears to be well designed.

The tailcap thread matches the S2, but I could not get the flashlight to light up when I swapped tailcaps.

The S2 tailcap could be a different length and not contact the end of the battery tube. I used my S8 tailcap personally which fits on the S2 so I assumed the S2 would work as well. Also remember that you would have to still press the side switch to turn it on, the tailcap does nothing on the SP32 except eliminate the drain.

Yeah, for an e-switch only driver, you would expect the light to do nothing when power is applied. This is because every time the cells are changed, there will be power applied to the driver.

Yes, I did try using the side switch after Lego-ing on an S2+ tailcap (and after trying an S2+ battery tube also).
Never got it to light up.

Tried a different (red S2+) tailcap just now and it does Lego fine, tailswitch controls the light as it ought to.

(I’d noticed long ago that I have some Convoys that don’t Lego together — even exchanging parts from identical models, there’s been some variation in the threads over time.)

Also tried an S8 tailcap just now, and the threads don’t quite match — stops screwing down on the SP32 with a couple of threads still revealed.
No light after fiddling with the sideswitch.

Yeah, the convoys have changed some over time. I guess the one I tried happened to work. Course most of mine are fairly recent versions so that could explain it.

About lego again :slight_smile:

SP32 works fine with short 18350 tube from Convoy. Just use it in reversed position: anodized part to head and clear to tailcap.

Update: it works in normal position too, just use piece of aluminium foil in tailcap to make better electrical contact :slight_smile:

The driver ring is not glued, it’s just a left-hand thread …

I feel silly for not trying that now, first time I have seen that to be honest. They went to a lot of trouble to make it happen with reverse threads inside of the normal threads for the body.

Sadly it doesn’t allow you to access the driver as the wires are too short to pull the driver out.

Thank you Texas_Ace for the review, and also for the information about the “lego” you and other member have been giving!

I have one SP32 on the way and I really had that questions about using it with SP31’s tail switch. That’s a “No”, but I’m glad it works with some pieces of the Convoy! :slight_smile:

Please, clarify me:

  1. about parasitic drain, unscrewing the tailcap would make any difference, or is it too long that one would have to unscrew a lot to stop the drain?

2) you mentioned the “lego” with S2 pieces, not S2, right? So, no chance of operating it with a S2 switch? Or it may depend on the “versions” of the S2+?

Once again, thank you!! :+1:
Best regards!

1: It only takes about 1/4 turn to lock-out the light with either the tailcap or body. So that is an option.

2: It is going to depend on the version of convoy you have, all of my various convoy tube lights lego IIRC but they are all also of the same generation.

Thanks for your answers :wink:
I guess I’ll have to try both things when it arrives :smiley:

A last question I just remembered! Do you think the output would benefit from a cell like the INR Samsung 30Q or another for high drain, or it wouldn’t make a real difference if using a Panasonic NCR18650B? (I mention these because they’re the ones I have …)

Thank you and best regards! :+1:

It uses a regulated buck driver, the nice thing about this is that it will maintain the same output regardless of the cell as long as the voltage is above ~3.6v.

Now a high drain cell might end up maintaining that voltage longer due to less voltage sag but overall I doubt you will notice much of a difference either way. It won’t get any brighter with a high drain cell for sure.