Now, who has a clamp meter, an H2R and balls of steel? I want to know if a dead short using a thick wire actually trips protection on that battery. It doesn’t have low-voltage protection (WTF?), so I’m not sure I believe them about this.
THank you, because despite the price i like the light to be honest (WW tint), ......but now it seems i'm not able to understand something in the whole story. :confused
I received mines today in neutral white. Mine is definitely neutral white. If I had to guess, maybe around 4600 to 4700k. It’s just slightly warmer than my EC4SW’s (MT-G2) and much cooler than my Manker E14 II with 4000K Nichia 219C. I was actually looking forward to the warmer temp that I saw in this review and another review, but in the end I’m very happy with the temp and tint.
My new favourite reviewer! The lumen/hour comparison is very useful, give us to the technology used by each manufacturers. Would love to see medium and high runtimes and lumen/hour as well if you have the time (for future review).
The battery of my H2R died suddenly, no reading at all. I removed the wrap to discover it was a 30Q inside (I thought it was VTC6), and the reason it died was because the cell’s internal protection triggered after being shorted.
I must have missed it the first time round, but got here in the end, after ZoomieFan provided the link
I normally lean towards throw rather than flood, but I was still rather interested in the H2R until I saw that “neutral white” was actually warm white. Would have made a nice area work light. Oh, well.
I think it’s that first production used the warmer emitter and they’re all 5000K now. I want to say CalvinIS confirmed that, but I’m not 100% certain off the top of my head. My review sample from Illumn was 5000K, and I haven’t heard of anybody getting a warm one in the past 6 months.
The old tailcap used a PTC thermistor to reduce the severity of shorts. It wasn’t bad enough to make the battery explode, but it could easily ignite things. The new use uses a diode to prevent them, which was what they should have done from the beginning.
They replied to my question about the tail cap there (see post #31 above)
Someone else already asked your question recently on 2/28, (most recent question) so an answer should be appearing there soon. Uunless there is a visible difference they are probably going to need the serial number to check, someone asked about which tint they had and Olight’s response was: ” tell me the serial number I will check for you.”
Another way might be with a multi-meter, there could be a different reading between the old PTC thermistor and the new diode version, but I have no idea what the readings would be. Someone here with the old one might be able to check theirs with a meter and let us know, and some may have both caps to check as I believe Olight sent out the new caps if requested.