The 7135
Well, not the prettiest idea but if needed to remove a single or few amc 7135 chips i simply crushed them with pliers and carefully removed the leftovers. Works.
Probably. 
I'm just exploring options. Right now I'm running mine basically DD using the UF XM-L P60 driver and according to my meter with 10ga leads it pulls around 12A (4A per emitter) at startup off of a fresh imr. I figured 9A from a 3 board sandwich would make for a nice "wow" or turbo mode leaving medium and low for normal use. Though I guess I'd be better off to keep it below 2C from a 4000mah cell so it's not limited to running imr. Maybe a 2 board sandwich with some extra 7135s to push it closer to 8A on high? Anyhow, I was just curious if there is a limit to how many 7135s a single mcu can handle if I remove the mcu from the other board and slave the "dummy" board to the board with the mcu?
Thanks,
Tony
Low i measured with 1mA, means my Fandyfire HD2010(with 26650) will now glow for ~5 Months 
I find the low to be on the bright side!!!!!!!!! lol? Its still significantly brighter than the low on a D10/EX10 ramping, and about the same as the low on a D10/EX10 SP.
I have mine in a skyray G6. removed 5 of the 7135's to leave 3 behind to provide something I'm guessing to be around the 1.2A mark for an XP-G.
Mode spacing for low/med/high is not bad at all IMO, a low that is *FINALLY* low enough to call a low (IMO), a medium that is not too close to being a high, could be a tad lower, but not bad at all, and plenty of power on high. Im currently running mine without memory, and on grouping number 1, so I can get 2 sets of l-m-h, followed by the disco. Because of the lack of mode memory, this works great because I rarely have to see the disco unless I actually want to.
Pretty happy with everything except the fact that it is still "on-time" memory. Off-time memory would have made this perfect. This means that if i don't turn it on for more than a second, it will go to the next mode next time I turn it on. In other words, if I were to pick up the torch one day, I cannot always guarantee that it will start on low. This does annoy me, and is why I prefer the off-time memory, in addition to the fact that mode switching requires double tapping initially.
I bought the 3A version because I get a good supply of 7135 chips for practically 10c extra over the lower current models. I find them easy to remove too!, just use 2 soldering irons that are well tinned and a "helping hands" alligator clip on a metal base to hold the board. Heat up the heatsink tab with one iron, and the 3 pins on the other iron, and when its all heated up enough, it simply slides off, usually done with a couple seconds with no collateral damage at all.
So would I buy more? likely, but I only have 2 torches that actually need replacement, the rest already have UIs that I'm happy with.
For anybody that wants a brighter low, simply break the trace to the Vdd pin on one of the 7135s and solder a jumper from the Vdd pin to B+. This will put that 7135 on full all the time so low becomes roughly 380ma. A word of caution: Only do this if you're using protected cells as this will defeat the driver's low voltage protection.
Any change of a picture of that Tony?
Good news I just got a chance to take apart a Shiningbeam P-Rocket and it had one of these new drivers and I was able to reflash it with the standard setup I have been using on the old Nanjg drivers.
I've already got that driver installed in a light but here's a link to the data sheet so you can see the VDD pin I'm talking about. It just needs to be isolated from the mcu either by breaking the trace or unsoldering/lifting the pin and then jumpered to B+.
I'm gonna guess that explaining what B+ is too might be good.
Battery positive. If you use one of the 7135s that's on the battery side of the board, the jumper wire can be run from the VDD pin to the pad that the spring is soldered to.
Just be sure that the VDD pin for the 7135 you're using is disconnected from the trace on the board or it will backfeed the others and you'll lose all modes except high.
What are the modes settings with the reflash you did?
.002, .085, .650, 1.5, 3.15
Soon I will sandwich a triple with these:) hopefully it will be a beast ,lol
Piggyback works fine, i soldered 2 extra 7135 (350mA) on it, and driver delivers 3,74A.
Hi
I need your help
I bought this driver from kaidomain and i can't get even close to 3040ma. The maximum ma i measured(from the battery to the driver) in high mode is 1450ma. What i have done until now 
and
I have connected this driver to:
2 ultrafire 501b, (1 ebay and 1 manasoft.com)
1 ultrafire c8, (ebay)
1 citipower x5(ultrafire 502b clone)
All of them have the xm-l t6 leds
my batteries are
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/trustfire-protected-2000mah-3-7v-tr-18650-battery-2-pack-12396
and
I fully charge them to 4,2v with 1A charge rate with a turnigy accucel 6 charger
I even tried to connect 2 18650 batteries(same brand) in parallel just in case my batteries have high internal resistant.
I replaced the thin cable from the driver to the led with a thicker cable 2mm diameter
Note: I didn't soldered any bridge
I had no luck whatever I tried until now
Do you have any idea what is wrong or what i sould try next?
I am not a hero in english language so please try to post in simple english
Thanks
Try a different DMM or different leads on your DMM some have a hard time reading above 1 amp.
I think the same, everything indicates thin wires or a bad DMM; You can try with thick wires directly to the DMM (Digital Multi Meter). I used to have this problem, I and solved it that way with 5mm² (AWG10) wires.
Perhaps the batteries are not up to the job. Did you get any higher reading in a DD light?
I don’t think so, he used TrustFire “Flames” and connected them in parallel.