Guys. Any nitro thinner from your local shops should work. It does not have to be one I linked. Use from your own local market. For best results follow my mentioned method. My all come ultra clear so should yours…
Edit:
“If you want ultra clear dd die than do 15minutes of boiling(you must see bubbles if it is boiling hot) and after that put it in isoproply alcohol bath and blow with compressed air. Result like MEM or Mitko from this thread each time…”
And perfect method is revealed. :partying_face: For harder silicone base emitters that are hard nut to crack do the same but you can slightly and carefully cut them from side to side with scalpel which will allow better solvent penetration.
You will all thank me after this I did lot of experiments with my market available solvents to find that the best stuff is in front of my nose in basement and it is even not that harmful since a lot of guys cleans paint on their hands and even face after messing themselves with color they just use mentioned nitro paint thinner on the skin
P.S.
Did I mentioned that you can de dome them 5-15-50-100 or even 1000 if needed at once with this method? (just choose proper size pot)
Another tip… Don’t go to close with compressor air gun when blowing out remaining silicone. Strong compressor could be to much for that tiny wires. Use it at least 20-30 cm above led and if you can aim minus toward plus size of emitter (so all junk will fell over + wires in single blow).
There is a bit of green on the very low modes but overall considering it started out as a unspecified XM-L2 CW with a blue tint, I would call the DD tint white.
After reading about the nitro thinner, since I had some laying around, I decided to try dedoming an xhp50.2 that I plan to put in a convoy L2. The results were better than I expected: in ~10 minutes the dome came off without leaving much residue (but it took a bit of phosphor with it) and while I haven’t tried it in a flashlight yet, the tint seems to have changed very little (this was a 3A) and the infamous yellow tint shift seems to be less evident than before. Though I’m not sure why that happened, I think it may be because of the thickness of the phosphor layer on the sides being reduced by the phosphor lost during the process.
When you de doming of hard core emitters you can leave them even more than 15 minutes in boiling thinner. When dome fells(and that happens very soon) it does not necessarily means that other silicone bits on emitter will fall they need to be cooked bit longer.
So don’t watch guys. Stick to my instructions and click stopwatch. But even 1 or more hour of cooking can’t destroy phosphor.
Nitro thinner sounds mean but it is not. If it is skin friendly so it should be phosphor friendly.
And one thing I can’t believe. That there are no paint thinners on some markets? Guys what do you use for thinning a paint before coloring something? With which solvent do you clean your painting tools, and even your skin after painting with color for metal surfaces?
Anyone dedome any XPL V6 1As recently? For me most of these emitters do not dedome easily using hot gas method. There remains a layer/chunk of silicone that is well attached to the phosphor. I end up having to carefully scrape this away and it’s not clean.
Hi, I made a dedom with thiner for polyurethane paints, with temperature in hot water, no flame, 30 minutes, but there were traces that I had to clean carefully, the result of the dye is just as thin in xpg2 s42b, greetings !!