A Perfect Dedome?

What about the tint?


X6 XM-L2 CW DD

There is a bit of green on the very low modes but overall considering it started out as a unspecified XM-L2 CW with a blue tint, I would call the DD tint white.

Nice job khas!

Do you have a link to the thinner you used? Hopefully I can get it shipped to Sweden!

Never mind. I saw that you bought it in Italyā€¦

I have been trying to find nitro thinner in sweden but cant seem to find anyā€¦

Sledgestone if you are more successful please share your findings :slight_smile:

Iā€™ll try to find some. There might be some at a local paint shop.

That dedome and beam tint look really good khas! Congrats :beer:

Has anyone found that nitro solution in the USA? Care to share the link?

After reading about the nitro thinner, since I had some laying around, I decided to try dedoming an xhp50.2 that I plan to put in a convoy L2. The results were better than I expected: in ~10 minutes the dome came off without leaving much residue (but it took a bit of phosphor with it) and while I havenā€™t tried it in a flashlight yet, the tint seems to have changed very little (this was a 3A) and the infamous yellow tint shift seems to be less evident than before. Though Iā€™m not sure why that happened, I think it may be because of the thickness of the phosphor layer on the sides being reduced by the phosphor lost during the process.


I made some progress. Found this in Sweden.
http://www.lackbutiken.com/sv/hem/ppg-billack/tvatt/max-meyer-nitro-fortunning-1-literā€”pid50.html

Didnā€™t find a data sheet though, but Iā€™m pretty sure that itā€™s the same. Only thing missing is the Antinebbia part. Anyone know what it means?

My best guess is that Antinebbia means ā€œNo fogā€

I found this in the USA but not sure how much it costs or if it would work like luminarium iaculator has posted

The only places in the US that might carry it are

And a hobby nitro thinner that might also work is this one

https://www.ebay.com/i/121780765176?chn=ps&dispItem=1

Hm, no fog? Not exactly sure what fog means in this situationā€¦

Guys,

When you de doming of hard core emitters you can leave them even more than 15 minutes in boiling thinner. When dome fells(and that happens very soon) it does not necessarily means that other silicone bits on emitter will fall they need to be cooked bit longer.

So donā€™t watch guys. Stick to my instructions and click stopwatch. But even 1 or more hour of cooking canā€™t destroy phosphor.
Nitro thinner sounds mean but it is not. If it is skin friendly so it should be phosphor friendly.

And one thing I canā€™t believe. That there are no paint thinners on some markets? Guys what do you use for thinning a paint before coloring something? With which solvent do you clean your painting tools, and even your skin after painting with color for metal surfaces?

Anyone dedome any XPL V6 1As recently? For me most of these emitters do not dedome easily using hot gas method. There remains a layer/chunk of silicone that is well attached to the phosphor. I end up having to carefully scrape this away and itā€™s not clean.

Hi, I made a dedom with thiner for polyurethane paints, with temperature in hot water, no flame, 30 minutes, but there were traces that I had to clean carefully, the result of the dye is just as thin in xpg2 s42b, greetings !!

Would you say that the tint in your LED shifted from 2B to 2T or 3S ? Did you use the Nitro Thinner?

Hi, if you use nitro thinner, or similar, it is thinner polyurethane based paints, difficult to determine, compared to convoy L6 N2-3A, it is greener and is a warm green, so I would say that between 3B-3S-3T, for My vision and use outdoors, it is quite pleasant, good depth, greetings!

The safety data sheet for this one can be found here. (MSDS)

The ingredients are listed; mostly toluene and acetone.

Googling for some of this stuff, and the prices vary enormously.
Makes me wonder if there are different kinds of this stuff.

I tried the l.i. method, using this stuff:

(for Jerommel:I bought it here, they have it in larger bottles as well: http://www.topfproducts.nl/Nitro-verdunner-100ml)

I folded a small container from tinfoil filled it with some thinner, placed it on my hotplate, and put some leds in mounted on a ledboard. I soon found out that you want to be outside when doing that (headache now :person_facepalming: ). I checked a XM-L2, a 3rd gen Oslon Square, and a Nichia 219B.

Once the thinner was hot, the XM-L2 dome floated off in 3 minutes. Not all the silicone was removed after 25 minutes but the die was nice and clean.

When after 20 minutes (yes, I was impatient and curious) the other 2 domes did not spontaneously fell off (they did look far gone though) I gave them a gentle push and there they went.

The Oslon dome came off together with a clump of phosfor while in other places still silicon was on the die (probable cause: phosfor mixed in the silicone), dedoming without removing phosfor will not work like this (and likely never). The picture looks better than in reality: the remaining phosfor layer was of uneven thickness, the silicone broke off in a random way inside the phosfor area.

The Nichia dome came off with a clear layer of silicon left on the die.

When trying to pry off remaining silicon it became clear to me something that I did not realise before: also the Nichia phosfor is mixed with silicone but during production the phosfor-silicone mix is applied in a die-cavity first, filling it up, then the clear silicone dome is added.
So with these Nichiaā€™s you end up with damaged phosfor or with a film of silicone on the phosfor. This is not different from a shaved dome.
In my case: damaged phosfor:

Conclusion:this is a very potent method (thanks l.i.), XM-Lā€™s dedoming is peanuts, and with Nichiaā€™s it worked way better than ever before with petrol. But it will not magically dedome leds that have the phosfor mixed in the silicone.

That stuff (looked at the msds) looked like mostly toluene, just minor ingredients, and the last-listed ones only 1% or so.

Probably where the ā€œnitroā€ comes inā€¦

Djozz,

I think you donā€™t really have good paint thinner thereā€¦

Donā€™t get me wrong but your results are terrible with this method.

You should have ultra clear results with this method especially for XM-L2 and after only 15 minutesā€¦
So it ainā€™t goodā€¦ It aint good for now :wink: Hope next one will be better.

Edit:

Nitro thinner should not cost more than 2-3$ per liter!

This is proper result of my method:

My conclusion:
I see that Djozz had only 100ml of mentioned expensive paint thinnerā€¦ That is not enough! During cooking process (boiling hot - not just hot) thinner evaporates very quickly.

I use about 300 ml of boiling hot thinner in a pot that is just slightly larger in diameter than regular glass. In that pot I put around 4-5 emitters. After 15 minutes I have it less than 100ml. So it evaporates quickly.

So when doing this method it all depends on size of your pot. You got to have plenty of nitro thinner inside your pot and that should not be problem since it is dirt cheap.