That beam tint looks like my old maglite magcharger
Nice modd Djozz but no freaking chance that old XP-G2 S3 3D throws same or better than mine good old XP-G2 S4 2B. I would bet with anyone any day for that statement.
Since you are so far away I guess I will have to send mine Mitko’s thrower to you for proper measuring. Cause that cheapo we both have even with your mentioned 11,4% add on measurement gives same numbers as yours on fully charged Samsung inr 30Q.
And BTW all my pictures disappeared from forum. F……g Photobucket!
I bought mine secondhand for 450 euro, it is a Mobilux meter, in fact a class B Gossen meter with a custom class A sensor. New it is 1200 euro. Strangely enough it is made in Germany but I can only find a dutch seller: http://www.lichtconsult.nl/product/mobilux/
The Gossen class B luxmeter with class B sensor is somewhat cheaper but still well over 500 euro.
Are you sure you want to buy it new? :person_facepalming:
I`d strongly recommend Asensetek lighting passport m8, i use it for over 4 years not, 2 different models and its not only a luxmeter but spectrometer too, check it out
“made in Germany ” is not what it`s used to be….believe or not i do prefer some local OEM hunting stuff that Blazer or Zig original parts, Germany dropped the quality great time, prolly cause of China…or corporate greeed, or both.
Like Gekko……and i liked it before they nuke the quality, especialy Target and Plus
Maybe you will get lucky on eBay, but I wouldn’t count on it. The filter is the important part. It has to closely match the “color sensitivity” of the human eye.
Comparing lux meters with one host will not reveal the differences, you will have compare them with all sorts of light sources to see what differences there are.
But my luxmeter does only one thing (though very well), Mitko’s device is way more versatile and given that it measures spectra (which is fundamentally different from a normal luxmeter) with the right calibration (!) it will do lux measurements very well too.
(I’d love to have one of those, Mitko, but really can’t justify that for what for me is a hobby)
Twenty years ago I bought, for a lot of money I thought, a small Proxxon band saw. It is mostly plastic but the essential parts were apparently well-made because it helt up for all those years and it has proven immensely useful and time-saving in many little projects.
But for who does not have that luxury: a hack saw should do the job as well.
-insert the driver in the pill and fix it with the retaining ring
-apply thermal paste on the (flat) top of the pill
-screw the pill in the head from above so that the flat top is 1mm above the flat bit inside the head surrounding it
-screw the battery tube in the head, against the pill, screw very tight, which is both fixing the tube and the pil in position
-position the ledboard on top of the pill
-solder the ledwires to the ledboard
-add centering piece, reflector and glass, close the bezel
-hope for perfect focus and centering
Thanks for your reply djozz! Im also from amsterdam
You didnt take of the rim? At this point i want a big mcpcb like 25 mm with a xpl hi on it and put it on the pill without rim. What kind of mcpcb did you use?
I did remove the rim, as described in post #446 above, but did not mention it because the question was about screwing the pil back in. And I used the 26mm board.
I live in the “Indische buurt” btw, in Amsterdam it never gets dark enough to need a flashlight
Well, finally I got the flashlight, put a xml2 noctigon 20 mm, dedomed, and driver blf a6, only gave 156,000 cd to 7 meters, with lg h2 …… I expected a little more …, greetings!
, Had not done bypass in the tail and improve a little the adjustment of the center, now more than 198,000 CD, not bad, I think …