+1.
I have experienced a dedomed XP-E2 shifting to green quite a lot…
But then i remembered i didn’t rinse it with alcohol.
So i put it in the dedoming solution i had (terpentine, benzine, thinner, kerosine, petrol (gas) iirc) and after that rinsed with alcohol (i used bio ethanol).
It turned out better than it was.
But i have no pictures or measurements.
But shouldn’t we be looking for the best silicone remover?
Well, that’s exactly what we’re doing 
And right now my best bet is Toulene.
Thing is, toluene is found in what we call ‘thinner’ here, so why should we look for ‘nitro thinner’ if it’s the toluene we’re looking for?
I have not checked the tint, but it is a random cool white led from the spares box, the tint is relevant if I would have known the tint that I started with…
Edit: FWIW, I checked tint anyway: pretty good actually, not ugly green, must have been a tint on or under the BBL before the dedome.
OK so the experiment with the solvent I had on hand didn’t work. Or should I say it was no better than hot gasoline or using acetone. So I broke down and bought some toluene and will try that and report back. I’ve got 50 of the SST-40’s showing up soon to experiment on. I’m making a TR-J20 for a member here and want to make sure that he gets 12 perfect de-domes in there.
On the bin that turned Rosy, that was quite a while back, I bought them on sale for cheap on one of the big aliexpress shopping days. That was back when XP-G2’s had just come out so for that time they were great but they wouldn’t be high bin enough for today, not compared with the S4 2B’s. Still I liked them a lot and wish that more of them would de-dome that color. They actually reminded me a lot of a nichia. The problem with ali-express buys are that you never really know exactly what you are getting. You might get lucky and you might not. So I haven’t bought from them in a long time.
Mainly because Nitro thinner apart from toulene also contains several other chemicals that removes silicone. And also because there have been reports of very little green tint shift.
Thanks djozz.
Your 50 x SST-40 order makes my order of 4 feel slightly insignificant.
Good luck.
The toluene took the dome off very clean. I did slice the dome off pretty close to the bottom before soaking. I didn’t boil the emitter on a hotplate. I used the boiling water instead like I would with gasoline. It’s VERY clean. Perfect. Now I’ll build a light with it in a while and report back on the tint. And I’ll compare that tint with the tint from the Hot high octane de-dome.
So far so good, keep your fingers crossed for me.
Thanks Steve. Well the toluene worked perfect and the tint change was minimal. I didn’t see any green in it at all.
I use this re-flow block I made for my soldering iron :
I really haven’t had time to redo the experiment but maybe one/two minutes in total ?, it was more or less trial and error if it was still green I gave it some more heat 
Great news thanks, twelve de-domed SST-40’s ? that’s going to be some kind of monster.
Good work! Luckily we have straight toulene to buy here in Sweden, so I’ll probably order some today. The thinner I use now is 80% toulene and 15-20% acetone and the dedomes I’ve done with it turned out too green. I’m suspecting that the acetone is the culprit as I’ve read that it might eat some of the phosphorus when used.
Been on a local supermarket a while ago. They now sell a “turpentine simile” whose composition is: C7 and C9-C12 alkanes in n-alkane, isoalkane and cycloalkane forms. Looks good to me, gonna get a bottle tomorrow. Half a litre for €1.60. 
Well, i hate to say it but Cree has changed the dome`s sillicone again……hard times for dedoming are comming folks…XPG2 and XPL are already affected but the change
What are the symptoms of the new silicone on the XPL and XPG2?
Why does a perfect dedome work well?
If I understand DrJones correctly, even a flat dome should reflect less light back towards the phosphor than no dome at all. Reflection of perpendicular beam is down from 18% to 10% (6+4). TIR angle is the same. So total reflection with a shaved dome should be lower, producing better output and smaller tint shift. But numbers here, here, here indicate otherwise.
Can someone explain why is it so?
I have never seen a “perfect” shaved dome. So there is more lumen loss with a shaved dome because the top is no longer as smooth and perfect as with the dome on. I imagine there is still some scattering of the light because of the imperfections in the “top” of the emitter. Not that I think a “close shave” de-dome is bad, because done properly it is still a good way to de-dome.
That was my first thought too. But @relic38 has sanded the shave with 2000 grit paper. I think it should be OK…
Another thought is that in a perfect dedome there’s still a thin layer of silicone left.
Or maybe there’s some more fundamental reason.
Dunno…
Just killed a LatticeBright “XM-L” by driving it directly from a 3.5+V battery while submerged in white spirit. Gave it a few good zaps a few hours ago, can't say for sure if there was some apparent damage mostly due to my unwillingness to look at the thing while driving it.
Gave it another zap a few minutes ago, and it just died. 
I have an old genuine XM-L next in line, but now I am in doubt with regards to submerging it with wires attached. 
