Test/review of LiitoKala INR26650-50A 5000mAh (Cyan)

I don’t see any problem since capacity is as it says on the battery.
The only complaint for now is that they can’t been connected in series.

I can’t get my light blue ones in series either, it is close but the top is just a bit too shallow. A very low solder blob solved it.

The same is true of the regular ones, so no change there. I just add a solder blob.

I use magnets when I need to connect in series and batteries are flat top, this is just a notice that they could make it to be connected in series like some other factories that make same things like Keeppower or Sanyo.

I don’t see any problem either. I was simply stating they did not seem above rated capacity, as the light blue ones were.

About half of my light blue ones will work in series. I do not think any of these were designed to work in series…… it just happens that some do.

A shame they did not just raise the flattop a tiny bit as part of the design, so they would all work in series.

Sorry, but this stuff is not philistine consumer market oriented. Li-ion cells were not meant to be removable or electronically unsupervised.

Cells don't work in series? They're designed that way! If you can't figure out how to solve that, you are not the target consumer of the product.

Hope they've changed the cell to the one from Hengji Battery, at worst.

^:smiley: … :+1: … :beer:^

Amen to that!! :+1: . At the very worst…… :person_facepalming: … (nothing worse than it in other words… :slight_smile: )

What do you think when connecting this 26650 in series instead of 1 magnet to use 2 or 3… I suppose it will raise a resistance but it will also raise a current flow I guess… What you think about this ?

I personally do not like or do not use magnets. IF for some reason I did… I would use 1.

I personally find a simple solder boob or one of THESE much easier to use and deal with on my LiitoKala 26650’s that do not work in series.
Or any other batteries for that matter. :wink:

Put a slight drop of Goot Super Soldering Flux over the cell's flat top, attach a clean disc shaped magnet to the top of the cell, centered; place a blob of solid Si50Pb32Sn18 above it, and then apply a preferably hot (300+°C) soldering iron tip on top with a gentle and slow movement downwards the magnet top.

The Rose's Metal pools instantly because it melts at a lower temperature than the liquid flux, with evaporates just after this, creating a very nice joint.

^:)

Βarkuti my friend , did you count losses in the way you suggest?

shadockan, remembered me of this clip which appeared in the World's Craziest Fools Mr T show:

What do you mean with losses?

You can use a rolled up piece of wire, desoldering wick, etc. instead of a neodymium magnet, just some sort of solderable piece of lump.

The melting point of Sn50Pb32Sn18 is just below boiling water, and it takes just ≈1s for this to be done. So it's 0K: 0 Kills.

i cut the wrapper right at the bottom corner of mine.
removing the bottom overlap make mine reliably work in series.

subscribing to this, hope to see HKJ’s test soon :wink: or other reliable comparisons to the old model

I got the 4 Black LiitoKala 26650 5000mAh cells yesterday. Soldered a bump on the positives for series use, will be doing some careful initial testing as I can (still under Dr.s orders and chillin)

They look good, seem to work well, but I haven’t taken comparison measurements yet…

Got these from gearbest

-All 4 arrived at exactly 3.8V
-Cycle test shows <0.2% variation in charge/discharge capacity, which means perfect battery health, most likely produced very recently.
-Capacity sightly lower than 1st gen blue wrap, which scored ~5,300mAh

Thanks will34, good info that is nice to hear. :slight_smile:

Why do people tell the arrival voltage? It’s supposed to be about 3.8v as it’s required by shipping laws, etc…

Do people tell this just to let others know that they are meeting the shipping requirements? It seems like useless information. Am I missing something?

Perhaps the arrival voltage could show if a cell is old and in rested condition has lost some voltage? Or just as a reference point? Or truth in disclosure, stating everything the charge cycle showed them?

Sometimes I notice that when charging em up the first time, usually I don’t pay it a lot of mind. As long as all 4 are very similar that’s all I care to see. So maybe in this way you know the 4 cells are matched, not one old one from 2 years ago and 3 new ones. So yeah, it could be pretty relevant if you’re using all 4 cells in one light (which I am, these)

I don’t know. I always do it too. Just SOP as far as I am concerned. I like to know what they are when I get them & always just share it.

I honestly had no idea there was some kind of regulation that mandated 3.8V. :smiley: