thanks this was my first TIR light and I thought the Beam is OK
I did glue the paperclip only on 2 sides where the optics is filed down because otherwise it blocked light from the TIR
after I modded the TIR I could see it does throw better and beam looks better overall
if you need a driver how about a TA one I can make you one with Narsil just for material costs, the light is great with Narsil
Yes, that is thw other way around to get leds and optic closer together, someone posted already that he had done that succesfully. I will look that post up.
About a new driver: I’m not sure that can be done while saving the internal charging function? I don’t think that could accept to have a flashlight with a charging hole that is there doing nothing (and fancy aftermarket cover for that emty hole :party: )
(back in the days when I wanted a flashlight for actually using it, a random hole in it would be perfectly acceptable, but that was a looooong time ago, I aim for at least perfection now, and of course never get there)
I can partly see what you did there, that looks like a fantastic modding job! (did I mention that I’m lazy? :party: )
Edit: I just read Toykeepers review of the D4, and my lazy me (plus unavailability of the many hours it will take to do the mod) will just wait for Hank to sell them, it has everything the S42 should have had without difficult modding :innocent:
i filed about .8mm and it has improved the beem a lot! Optics seem to fit ok without adding anything. Glass tightens up against it fine and works good. Thank you again for the tip.
I got back the dead Nitecore P12 with lifted off solder pads on driver and it has a really hard life. The factory scraped it where they asked me to repair or do something with it. And I made for them a Convoy M1 as a replacement. So then I got the dead flashlight to keep it and do what I want with itbecause it was cheaper to them to buy an M1 then pay ma to repair hours of the dead light. And I don’t thought it will be reliable as new.
I scraped off some solder mask and put some wires in the vias of the other board to make the area bigger. And the center 3 solder joints also got 3 wires to be more stiff and not peel off the pads.
Because the positive trace was so thin to the switch pcb I added a from the IC legs to the switch board.
And it runs after 5-6 hours of figuring out how to solve it and repairing
But it looked awful so I decided to remove the anodising with drain cleaner.
Still has anodising on threads so it can be lock with tailcap.
It came out good. This is my first ano stripping so I’m happy with it. It need a polishing and it will be nice.
Thank you! It really Is. I needed to buy a bigger flashlight part sorting storage box because I have too many leds, drivers and lighted tailcap stuffs around.
:person_facepalming: I did say that, and then yesterday evening I had the URGE to do a quick mod.
Btw, the bezel is not glued but easy to scratch (I wrapped some tape around the tips of round-pointed pliers to open the bezel but that did not prevent all scratches, a slight touch-up with a black marker was needed).
The result is that the tint stopped matching the colour but the light is way more usable, I will enjoy it more. The beam is great, Nitecore makes good reflectors and 219C leds behave well.
And on it goes! I’m pretty happy atm because I was recently allowed to buy these two stacked small chests of drawers (from ikea btw) for storing flashlight stuff.
Finally got my first MT-G2 built, used the wonderful Convoy M1 and a FET driver. I would have liked a regulated driver but did not have anything 2S on hand.
Also got a NiteFighter host and turned it into a mini thrower with an XHP-50.2.
Driver from an old BLF Super Shocker, I have been told. 3 modes.