In case you didn’t know, Hank Wang (member here as well) is the man behind Noctigon and Emisar, and Intl-outdoor is his business. The firmware for the D4 is most likely adapted now before he starts selling them on his site.
I know, right? I didn’t know one could get 2800 lm from an 18350 cell. At first I thought I did the measurement wrong.
… and I don’t even have those fancy new Aspire cells yet. I’ll have to get some, when they’re slightly easier to obtain. They make the shorty version of this light rather practical, even for pretty long nights.
On a related note, the springs are holding up unexpectedly well. Even after running at the maximum brightness with my highest-amp cell for thermal testing, the springs don’t appear to be sagging at all. Hank must have sourced some unusually good springs.
I’m surprised I haven’t damaged anything yet, testing this thing with thermal regulation disabled. It was so hot that I nearly burned myself just pressing the rubber button to turn it off.
Next time I take it apart. It’s pretty shallow though; barely enough room for the tiny85 chip to fit. Something like this is way too big; even the capacitors may be too thick:
Yes. The only reason the driver needs any contact with the pill is for thermal measurement. The pill has no electrical contact.
I have the Aspire cells and switched to the Efest purples with the XPL Hi and crude burnt my stupid fingers in under a minute, just set it down and reached for something and turned around and picked up the light and that’s it burnt toasty fingers big time, the other two can run on turbo for a long time after you figure out how to keep it on Turbo, drops like a rock to moon in about 5 seconds but a single click will push it back to turbo and it will stay if you don’t ramp down even a 1/2 percent then try and go back up to turbo, it will just drop again.
Will need to tell R. about this and see if I can ship them back to be reflashed with Narsil like TK did…? Sort of annoying.
Edit: I tried to pull the spring and board out of the tail and it must be glued, but the springs are rock solid IMO, put in a protected and cranked on the tail cap and head as hard as possible to see if I could make a connection and couldn’t but the springs held up, put in a copper crush washer in the tail and a protected cell pany will work and not show threads. The tail end of the battery tube threading is not consistent, had they made the threading one more maybe two complete turns protected cells would work I think, but as they are now looking at the three tail caps they are all three at different angles with the branding, drives me nuts, anal something I guess, has to be dead on or it bugs me.
Aa you can see, slim one-side fet-based board contacts shelf from the one side and cell from the other. There is even no way to add extra 7135 over stock one.
Cheap and easy solution. Im not sure in pcb copper layer friction abilities, if they decided to exclude retaining ring, they could at least add thick (in comparation with 0.35mil cu layer) brass ring soldered to the driver.
Cheap and easy are fine, as long as they’re good enough. I’ve had my SRK for several years now, with quite a bit of friction on its PCB copper BAT+ ring, and it has no problems. If it stopped working though, I could easily just spread a bit of solder on it to freshen it up. A thicker ring would be nice, but it seems unnecessary.
To get lots of info about it, click the Link in my signature.
(also, it’s worth noting that Narsil’s thermal regulation is calibrated for the Q8, and probably won’t respond fast enough on the D4… so, you should probably manage heat manually if you take that option)
I’m not very good at beamshots, but I hope these show what to expect. It has a round hotpot and a pinwheel-shaped corona, and not much spill outside that.
Yep, once I saw your graph TK I went and checked my cells with just a ZTS cell tester and they were low.
I have a lot of quads and none drain cells this fast,
What is the voltage the LVP kicks in at…? And it does do a three blink just before the drop I’m guessing…? I’m going to get voltage readings next time this starts to happen. Maybe it’s tripping early.
Thanks TK, appreciate your help, I think case solved… happy I don’t need to tell RMM anything now…
I would have really looked stupid, ah have you checked to see if your cells are charged, NO, let me go look… ha ha… Oh man, these lights did suck those Aspires bone dry fast, but that Aspire was in the XPL 1200 mAH just like that, wow or I lost track of time, really stupid no matter how I look at it frankly.
Edit: Nice beam shots, mine look like quad stars with 4 points to the profile,